Ascents in Serenity Crack Area

adventurous but brief: got a few droplets while Shane led p1; agreed to go until we got rained off. low crack transfer on p2 looked vegetated so i spent a while contemplating the big committing slab traverse higher up, not liking the friction or potential swing (or invert if i stepped on the sling). thankfully the weather escalated before i had to wuss out. the granite was soaked before i started lowering, and we were getting lashed with hailstones by the time i was at the belay.

getting off was the priority so i started the rap down p1 without looking at the topo. tried to think heavy thoughts as i sorted out the rope; kept going given the thunderstorm and knowing i had a full rack. turns out a 70m won't get you to the ground from p1 anchors but will get you to pinscars ~3m up where a #.75 and #.1 will hold even submerged in a minor waterfall, which will get you off the rope to work out next steps. not necessarily saying my decisions were good but they were deliberate and (quickly) considered, with risks and contingencies in mind

Lead 1st and second. Felt hard ahah

Day 1 yosemite (real day 1 after dylan and i hoofed up some 9s near camp yesterday. Serenity sons link up was pretty wild climbing. Quite like angels in buffalo except with a whole pitch manufactured with pin scars. How very american.

Pitch 2

Serenity Sons Link Up.

Serenity Sons Link Up. First thing we did when we arrived in the Valley. Got mild heat stroke. Classic.

Amazing! Linked p1 and P2, and P3 and P4. Up and down in 3.5 hours - type 1 fun for sure

Amazing. Worth waiting in line for. Crux was powerful but very secure on bomber finger locks. Pretty happy to get the onsight. Rapped after serenity because of the huge crowds on Sons.

Bold lead by Jeff, first pitch was seeping water into the pods in the R section, in retrospect don't think he could justify it.

Trad

Trad

Lead with rest

Very physical OW climb.

The upper pitches provide nice climbing with the last pitch being the money. Tight hands jamming to glory.

Linked with Serenity. Fantastic jams and cool moves

What a line. Stoked to get my first Valley 5.10 onsight on the second pitch

Very fun climb with tommy merth and Jesse Greiner. Careful with the rope getting stuck on the rap! Bring headlamps if starting in afternoon

Witb Stephen. P1 only. Linked into P3 of Serenity Crack for a megapitch, because there were 5 bumblies on the rap cluster-f@#king the belay, and I didnt feel like dealing with them. An okay pitch with a few cool moves (and surprisingly little gear).

With Stephen. OS P1, Clean 2nd P2, 1 fall at crux P3, then clean to top from below crux (with no extra gear). Mega, but felt HARD. The unprotected 8m greasy friction slab start on P1 had me working the headgames to keep calm in the sweaty sun, and leads to super-sustained thin seam-crack. P2 was easier fingers and ringlocks with an awesome friction step across and an insecure seam-crux. P3 was awesome steep jams to an insane fingercrack crux with no feet that felt like trad 24 for back home

Great climbing, mostly at the 5.7 or below grade, with a couple 5.8 moves on pitch 4, and a short (maybe 15 ft) 5.9 section at the end of the final pitch.

with Toby. Passed Liv Sansoz who was jugging while I was leading!