description
In the middle of the west face there is a huge overhanging arch. Eye Shadow starts below and left of that arch and climbs the most obvious crack system for four pitches. The route moves left on a ledge then follows a seam to gain the bottom of a huge, rough bowl. Scramble up the bowl (several pitches) to gain a nice big ledge with a huge tree (Camp Burnstown, Guiana) at the base of a thin seam. The route then follows the seam up and through the eye for three pitches. Above the eye, move right and climb over a roof to a stance. Then, climb up and left to a stance atop a block. A pitch of class four leads to the base of a huge steep corner. Climb it to the top. It's fourth class from here.
Route history
| First ascent:
Take a full 2 sets of cams, 2 sets of stoppers, 2 sets of angle pitons with extra babies and half inchers. Bring 18 bird beaks (I used this many in a row climbing into the "eye."). | |
| 19 Oct 1996 | First ascent:
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns & Warren Hollinger First ascent took 5 days (Oct. 19-24, 1996). |
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: 37.23458, -112.95279
Grade citation
| VI, 5.9, A2 | Assigned grade |
| VI, 5.9, A2 | Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns |
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
This digital guidebook presents a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
Red Rocks: 19 routes Thanks to the very sculpted sandstone of Red rocks, it is possible to climb routes on very steep cliffs at quite moderate grade. The protections are good and quite easy to place. Trad 6a grade is required
Zion: 8 routes In Zion, the routes are often more demanding both in terms of difficulty and climbing style. Trad 6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Warren Hollinhger on Eye Shadow 5.9 A2 VI - 12513813_10206804092873745_681128943332617671_o.jpg
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