Ascents in World as Onsight or Top rope onsight by Johan Sandberg

Climbed with Danne

A0. Had to use the bolt for the right foot.

Made the crux on the third try, i.e. put the first pro, then back to the ground. Second try - rested on the pro and thereafter bagged it. Held the third pro (camalot 3) when clipping the rope. The route needs cleaning.

A pleasant climb in the shadow. Climbed it with Thorbjörn, where I started the climb.It was my turn to start! The third pitch straight up from the belay is far more difficult than 3, more like a 5 crux. Can be avoided if climbing more to the right. The 4th pitch was the best part of the climb.

Climbed together with Catrine. Excellent final pitch with a nice crack. It was quite difficult to find the bolted stance far to the right hidden in a groove.

Chickened out and traversed right to the big crack for protection, thereafter up and left. I.e. did not complete the climb as in the topo description.

The little pine is removed and a little stump remains according to the description.

Climbed with Catrine and Emilie. A fantastic crack, especially the third pitch. Be aware of loose large flakes at the top of the second pitch.

Used the green alien with a long sling for the right foot at the start. Very well protected.

Climbed it with Thorbjörn. We where very focused on this climb and made a recognition the day before, half way up to the start of the climb ensuring both the access path and the descent of the mountain.

We started the day at 05.00 with an excellent breakfast made by Benny at Villa Pico, then drove and started walking at 06.30 in the dark. Marvelous sunrise around 7, started climbing in blocks at 07.30. After Thorbjörn's lead of the direct start, I took over and started wrongly up the rappel descent following red arrows up??? After 2 short pitches, I just knew it was wrong due to to harder climb than 4+, Thorbjörn traversed right under a tree/bush back right on to the main climb missing out the original pitches 4-7. Then, I took over leading pitch 8, Thorbjörn passed by and led the short 9 pitch, then I finished my block lead with pitch 10. Thorbjörn continued and finished the climb leading the last 3 pitches. Thereafter, we failed to fully complete the Edward's finish and stopped the climb to the top and started the descent. The entire outing took 9h car2car, the actual climb to the top of Espolôn Central took 4.5h, i.e. we where there around noon. The descent takes time and is very slippery with lots of loose rocks.

Hard for its grade in the beginning. One resting point

Easy to secure

Use of Anders at the immediate start, then one A0 just before the first roof, thereafter magnificent layback and hand jam climbing.

Excellent layback for its grade. Finished up right in the thin crack.Very well protected.

Hard for its grade

Climbed with Thorbjørn. Did an easier variation on the top pitch. Almost freaked out on the flakes on the second pitch. Hmmm.

Climbed with Danne

Super nice except the loose and dodgy part. Climbed with Catrine. Top part, we climbed the left finger crack. No belay above the trees.

Climbed together with Fredrik, Catrine and the kids.

Difficult at the top - 5a is very tough for its grade.

The crux felt ok, pumped though. Too much respect for the route. Next time it will be cruised

Fun route. May be possible to lead.

Climbed together with Thorbjörn. I lead the second pitch, after a hard loss playing rock-scissors-bag on who was going to start (and finish). First pitch had its difficulty in the immediate start, then easy climb to the stance. Second and third pitch was super nice.

Climbed with Thorbjörn. Leading pitches 2 & 4. Beatiful line.

Fantastic, and not as polished as expected. Catrine as belayer.

Nice 5+. Perfect space between bolts. Climbed w. Catrine.

old one sling during rope clip.

Difficult crux, almost fell off - great to be able to onsight on this level.

Climbed with Thorbjörn. It says some loose rock in the rockfax guide book, this is certainly true with heavweight on some, i.e. not not more loose than other 5s on this sector.

Climbed w. Catrine belaying. One sheat by holding the sling while clipping the rope. Felt alright.

Climbed with Patrik. Thin crux. 6a/6a+, I would say.

Climbed with Thorbjörn belaying after our longer climb of "Derecha...". Harder than it looked from below.

Climbed with Thorbjörn. Thorbjörn started by leading up the first pitch of Chabito. Thereafter, I lead pitch 2 and 3 in one (possible with 60m rope). Thorbjörn took pitch 4, then I made the first half of the final pitch, which Thorbjörn completed.

The first 2 bolts cipped by Christian Thörnqvist. Tried the 6 crux and failed thereafter traversed to Ahlgrens... thenback and removed the express sling from the 4th bolt on the Inget för... and back again. The top part more tricky than it looks.

Climbed with Thorbjörn.

Climbed with Patrik. The crux is very thin. 5c is not too hard for its grade.

old one sling during rope clip.

After boost,I climbed past the second bolt. Nice undercling. hold one sling during rope clip.