Ascents in World by Jason Nguyen

Cool moves and positions for the grade! Hard to read the rock here (especially in the dark)

Felt hard for 12, delicate and balancey on those slimy holds.

Went for the onsight but struggled with some fiddly small gear just after halfway. Sorted out gear beta and will be back to redpoint! So much small gear. Sat on my 0.1 and that was exciting.

Gear Beta: 0.75, 0.3, 1 (long draw), 0.4 (long draw), 0.2 or 0.1, 0.3. Additional small wire or two (orange and grey).

S andy.

A s fuck.

N ot worth having a lap on.

D efinitely not a classic.

Y ou shouldn’t hop on this.

S o yeah, the first half of the climb was

A sandy mess and I kept getting sand

N on-stop in my eyes and in my belayers.

D eserves no stars, really.

Super cool, this redeemed Berowra for me. Cool holds and sequences. Went up twice for a fun and turned a hold near the anchor into dust on the second lap.

Classic for Berowra standards.

Cool feature but quite bad rock, broke a big footer off and was hanging on with hands only.

Bit of a sandy start and quite stout moves for 21 but then eases off completely.

Stayed quite direct and I’m glad I didn’t have to put on the second QuickDraw, thanks Ben!

Looked mostly dry from the ground, especially compared to the rest of this end but I was wrong and avoiding the wet parts made it a bit harder!

Footers were wet so crux was entirely campused, hah hah 😅

Pretty good rock quality and nice obvious line, could try leading with trad gear if I’m here and bothered to carry it in!

Solid at 17 I think, thought provoking finish.

Didn’t realise the start of this was sandy as well, putting on draws flash because I belayed Ben on it a while back and already sent LoD but didn’t remember anything anyway!

Mono match traverse is the way! Definitely tricky and makes you think.

Repeat, the full 16 way this time

18 as per book is probably right, no snake this time

(It’s moved to Plum Duff)

Climbs well, religiously staying off the other two climbs

There’s a snake between the second and third bolt, which I didn’t notice when I did it but it gave the others a fright when they tried it!!

Up and down lead

Quite harmful.

Eventually got all the moves by the third working lap.

Warm up, and a nice winger of a warm up fall at the top too!

Draws on and figuring out the moves on the first lap.

Sent on second go / first red point attempt, wasn’t expecting it but the moves weren’t too hard?

First go today, I tried it 7 years ago; did say I’ll eventually head back to send it!

Easy start, tricky middle, must’ve read it a bit wrong because I was mega stretched out!

Alzheimers onsight, a good warm up!

What a cool wall!! Hardest thing was putting on the third and fourth draw as a shorty. Took at the 4th bolt on the onsight lap.

Smooth send on the second lap, but with a healthy pump still! Super cool.

Hard move then all over after second bolt.

Mantles

Probably a bit hard at 19? Had an interesting/cool sequence in the middle.

Super awesome feature and climbing; nice exposure near the top and a good length. Only let down is the rock quality.

Didn’t think it was all over after the second bolt? A few mantles and a reachy finish.

Kachow! Really pleasant and felt more straightforward than the 17 next to it.

One arete move, maybe also a bit awkward for 17??

Would be a good beginner lead with the plethora of bolts, maybe a touch awkward at the grade?

Repeat to clean, find me a better 16 in the mountains? Long with a lot of climbing for the grade.

Really nice line and very cool crux move!! Thoroughly enjoyable.

Would require some really creative wire placements and it would be spooky as!

A few nice holds on this one

Just one hard-ish section to start, then a cruise

Cleaning draws, unsent when I forgot all about my feet.

Didn’t remember anything from my send last time, but after actually falling and looking at the sequence, I should be able to remember beta for future reference!

Repeat, cleaning Still clipped that last draw at my hip…

Repeat

Repeat, setting up

Repeat, setting up

Definitely easy at 25 (with the bolt pull), but did it free with the dyno so taking 26 for it, as per 2019 guidebook. First few draws were on from doing WWS.

Decided to give the all-free version a go, my god that was SO fun!! Big cut loose swing and big smiles!

Really good fun, a bit cold on all those jugs with the crux right at the top.

Does anyone know how the FA did these routes? Dyno or bolt pull?

Onsight didn’t go very well, a lot of useless chalk around. One fall at crux with a bad sequence. Sorted the sequence second go then jugs to the top, but not a drop of chalk along the way, had to brush quite a bit of spider webs off.

I sent pretty comfortably second go. Much nicer with beta and draws on. No knee bar, oh, but I can get 4 fingers in the first pocket (with a squeeze)

Hop on now, the top is chalked! It’s not a sandbag!

Less cruxy than Thai Virus, a touch more sustained, pretty good!

Minging on that right crimp is not my idea of a warm up, didn’t use the side pull. Linked into Stereo.

Wouldn’t pull on it again, but it’s good that it gives you another way to start these routes.

Nope, could hold the crimp with the high heel but couldn’t generate any power to go out left. Either need beta or more power.

Project shopping, this one was hard. Start wasn’t as bad as expected; hard as through the roof but could see how to do the crux; just short on time so didn’t try it very long then pulled to the top.

Taking Yui abseiling / climbing with Caitlyn