Ascents in World by Vanessa Wills having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Hmmm, my tips were already cooked from trying a project yesterday, I was here to jamb, but Dave showed me the moves are possible....

I can claim a belay tick for Dave who managed the bottom half in fine form before a footer blew on the top bit he’d done before and ruined his shoulder and the official send. I managed to faint in the sun, had to get lowered down, and am missing doing about 3 m of this climb still ( the bit on the arete)

Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.

Beautiful moves after a tricky start. Top pitch only, down as 24 which it may feel on lead

If I could stem it would be classic. Clean through to final 5m of stemming. Awesome work by Dave.

Failed on second part of crux. I think I respect finger skin too much to try again.

First 3 pitches only at 11a. The offwidth is even good

Better than previous attempts. In that I actually did all the moves. The first pitch went fine as previously, but it's quite step with suspect rock. A second roof then the smooth stemming groove to final roof is the business. The ball nuts got a work out.

No progress today

Another day another shot. Some progress on P2, had reproducible sequence with 2 hangs.

The sequences seem to be working, now in just have to string them together

Pretty happy , even though it was a top rope. Great effort by Dave on his attempted redpoint.

Summer project I think. The bit between the 2 pockets is only 2 m long but may take a while, plus got to place gear....the rest of it is 21-24 so still interesting, 4 shots to top over last 2 days

A bit surprised, now have to do it sticking in the gear. Nice conditions today.

Rpt ascents working out how to get the gear in when feeling maxed out. Beautiful Christmas Eve weather

Finally stopped falling off after the crux. Good conditions seeing it was 40 degrees at home. Notes to self- down climb after first 5 bits of gear, triple set C3s,, tape right hand, flag right foot at crux, right hand thumbs down at top of lower crack or won’t reach the next one. Team success!

Tried the 26 and 24 pitches today. Seems possible but very technical. Right index finger hit by broken rock. Now I have 2 painful index fingers.

A couple of goes, can get to small ledge at half height at about grade 25 and up 2 bolts from there. Then it gets harder.

I feel like I needed the anchors lower, after the grade 26 bit......

Back on after what feels like a year. I had forgotten everything, but managed all moves on the 25 part second go to 2/3 height. After that mostly aid.

Another 2 goes. Tempted to put a maillon on bolt at 15m At 25, and leave the rest as extension. Holding most positions but downward facing slopers make it hard to move upwards.

Best effort to date. Did all clean except 2m in the middle that still requires a solution

3 separate days, maybe 5 attempts. All but half a move done, and clean again to top of pedestal. Linking it all together is another thing.

Couple more goes. Getting the 25 start now every time. Refining beta in the middle. Trying not to pump out at the end.

Unlocked more beta that gets me to the rooflet more consistently and fresher. Psyched.

Another 2 goes. Did second crux twice, which is the low probability move for me. On second go was through the third crux on lead when an edge crumbled and I came off, though the 4 th crux will be the heartbreaker I reckon. Hope the cool conditions continue.

I’m a pretty hopeless red pointer, but this project piqued my interest.Every moment figuring out the moves and linking them together has been a pleasure, in such a beautiful place. Seeing the bush spring back after the fires of last year is incredible. Earlier in the day, when I was 8 m up, and Dave on the ground, a wedge tail eagle pursued by a currawong did some proximity flying between us, about 2m out from the cliff.

P3 only. Not sure if it’s the morning weeding or just decrepitude, but did quite abysmally. Had a police boat zip in to investigate for some reason. Will be falcon closure time soon, but no problems today.

Combined this with Drayton ( mainly because I abseiled too far). Tricky technical climbing

P2 and3 , got through the first half of P2 to the mantle, then faded towards end. P3 start is dire, then gnarly finger crack that will be tricky on lead

Got to half way mantle clean and almost got through it it, then easy to the crimp crux and faded on the top third again.

Marred by some blocky rock low. Some preplaced gear on top rope practice went into this. Nice upper 2/3

FFA.

It was freezing and spitting rain and my gear consisted of rps and microcams

5m of hard climbing after the roof

it was dark and the end of the day. must get back one day

Easier than the 22! Back when fit. Great moves, better than original

Got 2/3 up before the cold fingers did me in. Up my alley for sure.

Led P2 and 4. Do it if you have a death wish. DO Iron Curtain and just the nice pitch on the orange headwall

Did 24 variant Pitch 1, second, and led pitch 2. Took a few falls before figuring crux. Freezing day. Stellar route.Best 2 pitch route in the world!!!!

The 23s are desperate at this crag so not sure if this deserves 25 as quite doable. Fun though

tried this 2 years ago without success, today can do the crux! A project for summer

Muscle memory works. More like 24 for shorties and probably 23 if you dont have to do 2 big deadpoints like me

Supercedes thc, worth going all the way to the top

With Neil, led 3 and 4. Several rests seconding second pitch in the final 8 metres. All else clean. The light on the waterfall was brilliant

Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.

Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.

Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.

First araps 25. Felt like the 23 actually but more sustained

Hmm, sweet to 3rd bolt, could likely sort traverse, but the move from the undercling is way too reachy, even with feet of dyno

Great climbing but the crux feels very reachy. I then have to jump to get to the cam placement. Another trip maybe.....

Step one, build cairn so can reach holds, 2, pivot around into undercling, 3 kneebar, 4 lay back, 5 fall off. Did this about 10 times. Then foolishly volunteered to clean Dave's Sat upon gear

Lead attempt ended at bolt. Took a while to sort moves into crack, and then still having trouble with the exit.

Did all the moves, which were cool, but rock is quite average. Scary proposition to lead. Multiple rests while coughing guts up.

Too hot in sun, fingers too worn, basically too weak today. One shot only. Good route but some of the rock is shonky.

Has gone up sometime in the past 12 months. Looks like a squeeze route, but climbs independently up a beautiful technical face before joining SL for finish. Felt substantially harder than the 3 25 s I have done here, so suggesting 26. Shame the bolts are so ugly.

3 more goes today, before packing up. 4 th day of crimpy climbs, fingers weeping. Managed to climb to top of crux, but just couldn't get left hand back on . Clean to top from that move several times. One to revisit.

Not been on this since 2011, forgotten everything. Still a move off sorting crux.