Ascensions dans World par Vanessa Wills contenant trad-cpr ou ascent-date

Rpt.

Whales all around. Including me on the ledge. Tried to make it harder for interest

A little seepy today

Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.

The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.

Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.

Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.

Rpt.

Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.

Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!

A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry

Original ascent solo, rpt today

Rpt.

Rpt, exit.

My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.

Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack

Rpt

Rpt

The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.

A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.

Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.

Rpt

finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.

Rpt

Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.

My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt

5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start

The most enjoyable route of the day

The 3 star routes at Piddington would be lucky to get one star here.

Tough initial crack, then pleasant climbing through roof. A bit sandy.

Really nice climbing and protects well

A bit manky in the middle ( with minimal pro) but fun start up V groove

Lovely slab climbing

Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.

Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.

Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists

Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.

No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs

Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.

Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.

Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.

I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.

What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.

Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there

Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.

My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.

Fun trad climb. #5 handy.

This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.

Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement

Thought this was great, but confused by the topos. There is a shorter direct crack which we bypassed and went right along arch, so thinking it was this. Certainly felt quite challenging, great balance moves and some burly underclings. Could feel a bit sketchy placing gear on the traverse

One part was still wet, but it climbed fine. I found the crux to be different to Dave- the upper traverse had the feet too far away from the flake so it was quite tricky. Again more like 19