Ascents in World as Pink point by Paul Frothy Thomson

I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves

I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.

Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.

FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.

2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.

2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped

I then downclimbed it to clean it

2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.

Not a good warmup I flashed pumped on the last move of the traverse on my onsight, took the whip, and broke my cam

2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise.

2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason.

Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird?

Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start.

Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.

2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.

2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move 2nd shot was a cruise, but DAMN its fun. Really nice rock, cool moves, and not too hard at the grade. This would be a classic anywhere, in my opinion.

5 days of effort to this point.

Pretty chuffed to get both this and Titan done free within the span of a month.

As with Titan, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do this. I wasn't planning on doing it until next season, but had an unscheduled day, and decided to check it out... and I was immediately hooked on the challenge.

As to the route:

If the rock wasn't choss -even if it was just your run-of-the-mill Blueys Sandstone, I'd call this the single best crack climbing I've been on in the entire world (and I don't think my resume is lacking when it comes to crack climbing) for position, sustainedness, and purity. It would also be a super-duper obvious contender to climb as a giant pitch.

Alas, it is choss, so while I still regard it as classic, that is very much a subjective opinion, and I think prospective repeat ascensionists should really consider whether this will be their cup-of-tea or not.

P1 - is amazingly varied and technical climbing. Personally, I probably found this physically harder than P2 (in that, its more cruxy) and in some ways scarier (due to insecure cruxes). The opening finger-locking is aesthetic and great, and the insecure laybacking through the middle lends itself to complex footwork.

P2 - Looser than P1 for sure (the start of the pitch is horrible!), but quite stacked. This has a lot of hard moves with no super chill rest. I found the last moves to the anchor to be the crux, there there was about 5 sections I could genuinely have fallen off on.

P3 - To be honest, I didn't like this pitch at all. Loose, hard to protect short crack section, followed by a sandy traverse on eroding edges to gain the topout ledge.

Less sandy/chossy than you might expect in some ways... More sandy/chossy than you might expect in others. There's an "unpredictability" to the rock here that most other chossy routes I've climbed don't quite have.

The gear is also pretty good, provided you're smart about where you place, and remember that spreading fall-load over a larger surface area is better than the alternative (read: passive pro, dammit!).

Don't trust the fixed gear, though

5 days of effort in total to put this all together. I pink-pointed the top 2 pitches, and had the first 2m of gear pre-clipped on P3. I broke 4 fixed pegs, and 1 hourglass carrot during this process. I also took 5 falls -one of which was a sideways whip onto an hourglass carrot, that somehow held my fall!

I wanted to climb something hard on Dogface to prove to myself that I could -I've always believed that I could, but the time had come to prove it.

I found this a conflicting experience. I liked the climbing on the crux pitches, and -surprisingly- didn't end up finding the bad rock/gear as terrifying as I expected. However, because every single lap the route gets harder (breakages, holds become sandier, others become more rounded, fixed gear breaks, etc) my whole experience was stressful due to the knowledge that sooner or later it would be too hard for me to climb. I've never really climbed with this type of time-constraint before (wherein, every failed lap is punished by adding .1 of a grade to the pitch).

Interestingly, the bottom 2 pitches are quite moderate, and actually surprisingly good (the rock isn't too bad, the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is fun!). These pitches are probably worth doing in their own right. After that, it gets rather sandy, and kinda hard

P3 had a wildly technical thin stepped corner (on good gear) to start it off (it took me quite a while to figure out the beta), followed by easy, loose, runout rambling.

P4 had a very cool seam-crack crux, followed by interesting, technical, runout slab climbing on deteriorating rock.

After work in-a-day send by headlamp!

Great rock for the lower mountains, and wiiiiild moves climbing inverted feet in the offwidth. I found the moves to turn the lip and mantle out pretty bouldery at the grade, but maybe I had a silly sequence? Would love to hear beta on it.

I can only think of 3 other offwidths in the greater Blueys that compares in the grade range/style, and this is probably the best.

For some reason I didn't read the description, and only brought 2 x 5's, which was not ideal. I'll be back with the right gear for the red point, cause this puppy is totally worth it!

6th shot. Took me 4 laps to ever come up with a consistent sequence for the crux. 5th lap I went through the crux, and fell off the first stemming move... 6th lap for the win.

6th shot total, and 4 core-shotting falls at the lower crux.

What a journey! Surprise send, after spending the morning on Simmo's route, and only tackling this at the end of the day with a view to sorting out the "send logistics" (with a route this long, steep, and wandery... It's fair to say that it's involved).

There's just so much here to remember, and with it being so steep, you're always on a timer to get it done. Steep, gymnastic, and sometimes quite technical. Would be megaclassic, but the rock is only about as good as Sunny Side Bell, so far from the best the Blueys has to offer. It's almost too hard to sum it up at an experience, even with the copious amounts of hyperbole I can command

2 Full days working the bottom 26/27 arete, and the effort I originally put in to climb Gaze a Gazely Stare (as well as a few repeated laps for fitness and training). On the send, I committed to constant 5m+ runouts to avoid dealing with rope drag.

Originally attempted ground up. Took some falls, but was ultimately stymied by dirt and moss at the lip. Rapped in, cleaned 'er up, and went agsin. Took a huge lead whip right at the end on my 2nd shot, and sent 3rd shot on pre placed gear.

2nd shot. A bit of a rush to beat the arrival of night, especially at the end of a rather intense weekend (and a long first day at Bombo!), hence the cheeky pinkpoint. Super keen to come back for the True send, though.

Amazing, frictionless, technical trad climbing, with fingerslocks, fridge-hugging, face climbing, stemming, and many foot movements for every hand movement. The gear is good, but small, fiddly, and rather spaced towards the end. The finale seemed very bouldery to me.

First lap was figuring out gear, cleaning the vegetation, and sussing the top crux -which definitely required some work, especially after I broke off a key footer.

Maybe 23 to the rest before the crux, with a solid 25 tick when you add the crux into the equation?

TRS Sussing lap on the bottom pitch, and the cheeky pink-point psuedo-FFA on the top pitch.

Awesome steep start cranking up pockets, followed by an easy but pleasant face climb.

Two very different halves... the gnarly slab start (feat. Many Brutal Monos) is technical and insecure, and the steep headwall is powerful and punchy.

3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off above the crux when I forgot about a key hold. A gnarly boulder off the ledge, with a pumpy finish. I skipped the complex sequence most seem to use, by doing bigger moves off worse holds (half-pad mono cranking FTW!) through the steepness.

3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off on the roof crux. 2 brutally hard boulders separated by a no-hands rest. The bottom crimp-boulder traverse is bloody demanding (cranking a 2-finger quarter-pad edge on poor feet).

Third shot. Almost managed it second shot, but bungled a key footer right at the very end. Onsight to the last bolt, but the final runout, cryptic finale took some effort (and finding some balls) before I could wholly commit to it.

A super logical linkup, but the end is quite incongruous in difficulty and boldness.

3rd shot. Like everything here, a brutal (rad) boulder start, and a more sustained (but punchy) steep finale. The opening boulder on this was very blueys-esque.

A climb of two halves, but both are cool.

The sustained roof boulder at the top is tonnes of fun, made much harder today by how wet all the initial holds were.

2nd shot. The opening pocket boulder is rad, but once you stick it, the rest of the route is kinda ordinary.

3rd shot. The true line up the prow feature via the most prominant features (though not as airy as emergency exit), the entire right side of the prow was running with water today, forcing us to climb a harder version to the anchor where we stayed left of the final crack system.

3rd shot. Wild climbing through the pockets on the steep headwall. A very cool prow feature. Quintessential frankenjura.

Amazing, technical face climbing on sloping pockets... though 2 bolts in 20m is somewhat terrifying. On my onsight I fell off above the last bolt, necessitating getting scared again for the flash.

2nd shot. A proper hard boulder off the ledge (probably not too bad when its not running with water), then just a doddle. The boulder slab start is kinda funky.

2nd shot. Awesome steep, sustained pocket cranks up an iconic round boulder. Classic Jura!

2nd shot. Mostly fairly easy and good fun, but the final one-pad mono crank is... gnarly and intimidating.

Great! The whole steep finale on stacked pockets is what I imagined frankenjura would be!

2nd shot. A brutally hard last few moves climbing direct at the finish. Quality climbing, though

Cruisy, classic Gorge wandery face climbing, to an absurd finish campusing a frictionless sloper rail below a roof, and a gymastic finale into a major cave system.

Still needs some more cleaning, and some anchors. I had to do some very scary backjumping/downclimbing to clean it.

An absurd line through the roof crack above the start of P4. Roof jams, Heel-toe above head, and some steep cranking on gear. Took me an annoying number of attempts to send.

Still needs to be done placing the gear on lead (its a mission to clean it, and we were racing a storm).

3 shots. Fell off the last move on my 2nd shot. 3rd day on at Bulla, and I'm feeling proper beat-up now.

Still cleaning up, but the moves are awesome, and this is a way more enjoyable start to Karma Gettin' than Toast is. Steep as all hell, but surprisingly manageable with technique (I found 4 awesome knee-bars ).

Full disclosure: continuing my run of breaking holds off at Bulla on this trip, I actually broke off my anchor clipping hold on the send. D'oh!