Routes as aid in World

Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall.

Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.

1. 25m (M2) Slime Corner. Two bolts off the deck (Deck potential, often stick-clipped) to L-trending slab with slime-filled corner (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack. To DBB on a flake. It's possible to link 1 and 2.

2. 35m (M4) Big Corner part 1. Sustained aiding on thin pin scars up the corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. If you're struggling, imagine freeing it!

3. 40m (M4) Big Corner part 2. More pin scars up the same corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Swing left to small tree and ledge to trad belay in corner on the left. Typically linked with pitch 4 (better for hauling) by back-cleaning most of pitch 4, otherwise rope drag will be ludicrous.

4. 8m (10) Corner hand crack and tricky flop onto Big Grassy. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the left corner line after the roof at 25m to hanging DBB for the "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version) or the less popular right line which is part of the original Ozymandias Direct line.

6. -Option A 30m (M2) "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version)" Up the beautiful corner (finger crack layback goes free at 22), at double carrots head right past two fixed hangers to a hanging triple bolt belay on the arete under the Great Roof. Option B. 25m (M4) Ozymandias Direct - follow corner on RPs, wires, tie offs to hanging triple bolt belay. Unpopular and vegetated.

7. 37m (M4) The Roof. New and old carrots lead to the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Hanging belay. (the Gledhill Bivvy).

8. 30m (M3) The Fang. Head R on decaying carrots then up steep crack past the Fang and beyond. Lots of steep awkward caving up to a final hand and fist crack. Take the big gear (up to #5) and watch out for the sharp edge at the start.

9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up crack to an ugly carrot and a slab move leading right to the base of an easy chimney (optional DBB) make sure to move the haul line left of the trees before entering the chimney. Then head up to big terrace with plaque. DBB is way around left.

10. 15m (M3) Steep offwidth (BD C4 #4 and #5s) with an initial seam on the left wall and a few dodgy carrots higher up. Finish on lookout.

HB

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

• 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
• 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)↪
• 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05 ↪
• 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
• 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
• 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
• 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
• 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
• 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
• 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
• 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
• 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55 ↪
• 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30 ↪
• 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
• 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33 ↪
• 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05 ↪
• 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45 ↪
• 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46 ↪
• 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44 ↪
• 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07 ↪

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on "Grogan Road" street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

This was the first route up Taipan Wall, an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status. Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).

1. 40m (18 M1) Up the short pocketed wall, move 5m R and follow flake up R to horizontal break. Squirm R for 8m to awkwardly gain bolt ladder up white streak. Bring plenty of hero loops. One free move off the last bolt gains new DRB SHB (22m rap).

2. 30m (18 M2) Step L and free up flake to a blank steep wall. Long reach to bolt, use it for aid to gain the next flake and either immediately revert to freeing (22M1), or keep aiding on RPs (18M2), to move L around the roof to the guano stained tip of the major flake. Continue up flake to a large horizontal break (with one final aid move for the 18M2 version). Crawl in for a lying down belay followed by an all-night bivvy (like Guild and Stone)...or take the far cushier hanging belay.

3. 18m (1) The most outrageous grade 1 on the planet. Squirm awkwardly R to end of ledge and new DRB (45m rap).

4. 25m (18) Follow the steep flake line up diagonally R (PR, BR) to the steep corner up the L side of the final tower, to a dangling topout at the very highest point of Taipan Wall.

Start 20m left of where the tourist track meets the beach. There is a sport route on RB's but the aid route is on (sometimes questionable) carrots. Its not unheard of for the carrots to pop so take care. Once you start the roof it is very difficult to bail. Final straightforward bail option is at the top of pitch two where a 55m rap will get you back on the ground (two 60m essential)

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

Start at burnt out tree 20m R of 'The Ricoh Destruction Test'. Located directly below the lookout.

1. 22m (20) Trend R after the 3rd bolt. Up to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

2. 12m (21) Trend L from belay then up through overhangs rejoicing in the two handed pocket. A few harder moves follow to get to the DBB. If there's no rope drag continue up pitch 3.

3. 10m (20) Traverse L staying just above overhang to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

4. 20m (21 M1) Straight up slab, a few thin moves and pockets. Through the overhangs (aid last bolt of the overhang) then sketchy free moves to finish at U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

5. 25m (20) Follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge, the first on the route.

6. 14m (19) Thin start, follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge. Choose to link pitch 7 or not.

7. 5m (10) Up! To stand in the lookout and belay from the overhead beam would be perfect but contrary to QPWS policy.

A mega classic! All belays, except the summit, are triple bolted anchors configured for guide-mode belaying.

1. 30m Solo up the initial slab to the first anchor. Take care if climbing the loose flake / crack to the left.

2. 50m (4) Easy but runout (4 bolts) up the initial slab.

3. 30m (4) More of the same, but with more bolts.

4. 35m (5) Nice climbing beside a left facing corner and through a small roof. Loads of bolts.

5. 20m (5+) Starting to steepen, but still pretty cruisy. Loads of bolts.

6. 30m (6b+) The first "business" pitch - the endurance crux of the route. Moderate start leads to a steepening in the wall, where the difficulties begin. The climbing eases off again once you gain the arete. Very very tightly bolted (take at least 20 quickdraws if you intend to clip everything, but skipping bolts or back cleaning is a better option).

7. 15m (6c) The second "business" pitch - the technical crux of the route. Some very tenuous moves up the steep wall. Also very tightly bolted.

8. 25m (6a) One or two dicky moves around the arete (very well protected), then easy up the juggy slab to the top (a little runout). Belay off the steel contraption with the crown on top of the pinnacle, not the manky old anchor just before the final step.

Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

Cameron Fairbain,Simon Vos on ★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

Pro to 2". Descend with 2 ropes.

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

The obvious cliff-splitter. "The most direct and outstanding line on the face" -John Ewbank.

Trade aid route - goes clean ie no pins, some hooking, occasional free moves... Also goes completely free.

Fixed belay anchors in reasonable condition for old carrots, consider backing up with extra gear/rap line etc if you’re so inclined.

P1 (~ 25meters) - Either direct or traverse in from left to reach the base of the crack. Mixed aid (~C1/C2) and free. Bolted belay.

P2 (~28 meters) - Standard aid, hooking (or free moves) up to C2. Multiple bolt belay station. People have bivied here for fun. Can be linked with P3 but long rope recommended

P3 (~28 meters-depending on belay position) - Few aid moves to aid crux (C2+), then up crack finishing on carrot-ladder to ledge, and final free move to top. Carrot belay on a boulder ~15m back or just belay off a few of the trees.

Exit up gully track to Landslide Lookout.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.

For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.

Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.

Start: Below the steep corner at top of cliff left of 'Echo Crack'.

1. 25m (27) Left facing corner to ledge, steep wall to scoop and ledge. can be aided (22M1).

2. 40m (19) Corner to block, left leading groove to shale band. Belay on left.

3. 15m (13) Shale band, right to ledge below the main corner.

4. 25m (20) Corner to ledge on right.

5. 21m (21) Corner to ledge on right.

6. 20m (18) Step left, corner to dirty groove, left and up to belay (hanging).

7. 15m (18) Up wall.

The thin crack in the middle of the wall, which widens in the last meter. One carrot bolt just before the awkward topout.

On the northern end of the first big boulder of the Sphinx Rock group encountered from the campsite track. Free the move or stick clip the bolt to avoid the undercut start and aid up. Once you get the digits established on the rock climb up leftwards to another bolt. Then rightwards and up to the top via a sling runner. SLCD’s for the belay. Rap station descent.

Freedom or death Variation skips aid, 5.12a

The crack 4m left of Thanksgiving Crack, ending in a bush.

Good but take care!

Start: 2.5m L of C&W

1. 15m (19) 'Steep' orange wall to ledge under roof

2. 25m (17) Directly up through roof and up wall above

One of the most historic routes on 'El Capitan'.

Still an stout aid route despite lots of free attempts. Up the crack in the overhung wall R of the arete with a FH above and below left from the free attempts. Go L along the slopy horizontal crack then up the top WIDE crack.

Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 27m (- M3)

3. 18m (- M4)

4. 30m (- M6)

5. 40m (- M7)

6. 40m (- M5)

7. 40m (- M4)

8. 30m (- M3)

9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

HB

Start: 6m right of LYM.

1). Cheat stone then right into corner (LYM)left to piton, left to ledge. 2). Right to shelf, overhang to belay. 3). Slab and wall trending right, left to belay. 4). Corner to roof, ledge to belay 5). Aid, then free to belay. 6). Left an

P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton).

P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot).

P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help).

P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended.

P1 A2 20m. Free to BR at 4m then thin seam running up then diag. R under arching roof, to arete. Straight up through steep bit then up corner to TBB with small foot stance.

P2 A2+ 25m Continue up corner passing 4 BR. Pass rooflet then straight up widening then narrowing crack with some looseness, to the Fireman's Hat belay (TBB).

P3 A3 20m Pass roof to R and on up thin cornern with fixed KB to negotiate another roof (2BR). Up R leaning orange line widening from beaks to medium cams, returning to beaks as it reaches the hanging TBB.

P4(?A3) 20m Continue up line a bit then veer diag. L (BR) heading for corner above roof. Up corner. A rivet (as for COD) is the last placement. Bolt and groove belay.

Note: bat hook off first FH on P4 appears blown out 17/07/2020.

50m of 4th class poo to the top.

FA Gareth Llewellin, Chris Finn, Scott Lawrence, Ray B. 05/99

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.

There is some carrot bolts not in bad condition.

Climb in via 'Via Kapf'

Wide crack cruxy start near the coffin cave gets you to a good cave ledge. Pop up onto the main face and up and around arete. Up grey slab above.

Starts on the east side with a high bolt. Stick clip this one and climb up. Some bolts are reachy and not all of the rock is good quality. The top has 2 anchors with chains.

7b / 6a A0. A long and enticing line up the beautiful Roque de las Animas. The route starts at a chalky overhang with an obvious approach through the ferns. This route is not nearly as serious as you might expect from a 250m climb, with a line of bolts leading the way. The route can be climbed at 6a A0 if you pull on bolts through the hard moves, though on the lower pitches it is stiff for that grade. The upper pitches of 7a and 7b are bolt ladders for easy aid. The route can be climbed on bolts alone, but a light trad rack is highly recommended, especially for the 1st pitch. Bolts lead all pitches except for the second half of the 6th pitch, this requires gear in easy choss, tending left and leading to an anchor under the final roof.

Gold Wall is the name of the aid climb. Silent Line is the name of the free version.

Up slanting crack for 50m. Up to 10m pin traverse along clay band then up to roof below lookout. Through roof and up to lookout. If your into aid you cant get lost.

Start: Slanting crack in the middle of 'Main Wall'.

1. -m Start between pillars, up groove and into the crack. Belay at obvious foot ledge. (23 or M3)

2. -m Long slanting crack, with cruxy finish, to alcove ledge. (26 or M5)

3. -m Up short corner to reposition belay to eyrie ledge above. (- 18 or M2)

4. -m Up corner to traverse clay band on stacked pins then up via bolt and piton to ledge. Original bivy on right. Free variant avoids pin traverse by continuing up corner to top then exposed traverse to gain belay ledge. (- M6)

5. -m Left past 2 bolts to crux getting into left facing corner/ramp. Easily up it to top then pull onto shaley ledge (25?- M6)

6. -m Left onto large block then up through steepness, turn the lip and up final slab with lots of poor bolts.(24?- M5)

Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean. The bolt mentioned in the previous guide was pulled out be hand apparently (not the only time this has happened at Black Hill by the way) and is not required.

Pulled out by hand on abseil!

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

The first part of the route consists of 6 pitches featuring face and dihedral climbing. The rock is a little bit greasy, in the first 3 pitches very vegetated and sometimes loose because of the few repetitions (1986-2009 11 times). The belays are all bolted but in between the are just some old pegs and you have to enhance the protection with friends and rocks. Which isn't always possible.

The second part of the route features technical climbing in two big roofs where you need ladders. The first roof is protected with some old (loose) pegs which have to be enhanced with friends. The second roof is well protected with bolts and ends with a difficult technical climbing section. After the upper roof one pitch of good face climbing remains.

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

Start: 4m right of the ladders. thin right facing corner.

1. 20m (20) Rooflet and corner to ledge.

2. 19m (20) Corner, right and up to the girder.

“Contains sustained, free and mechanical climbing of an awkward nature. Contains an awkward pendulum and a manky start to the first pitch” J. Ewbank.

Up through shockingly lose shale to the base of the wall proper, and up thin crack to hanging belay. Switch gears and arc up and right on bolts, hooks and drilled holes to tatters of primitive lower-off and pendulum to the (now dead) tree belay at base of corner on right side of wall. Up corner to top.

Perhaps dry tooling would be better . . .

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

4. 12m (-) Scrub

Variant in the first pitch of Krízis

May go free one day. On the right-hand wall of 'Toadstool Rock' (start marked). Aid the very thin crack to the roof, then left to a crack and free to the top.

The Muir Wall is one of El Cap's greatest natural lines, second only to the Salathé. It boasts large clean corners from the ground to summit with moderate yet sustained climbing.

This route is substantially more involved than the Nose or Salathé but technically easier than the Shield or Zodiac.