Supports theCrag
Karina Schofield onsighted 3 routes and climbed 2 other routes at Freycinet National Park. • discussed 5 weeks ago
Onsighted 3 routes, dogged a route and retreated from a route.
18 ★★★ Harlequin 28m — Mega Classic
Loved it. The friction slab finish was amazing. — with Tim Schofield
22 ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct 25m, 1 — Classic
Really enjoyed this. Other than pulling up on the first bolt (as per the guidebook), this climb was just so exciting and hard. Came unstuck in the layback/crack at the top. Rack beta: I recommend a single rack of cams up to BD #3 including micro cams, an extra BD 0.4 and #3 cam, and a single rack of small wires to protect the otherwise unprotected move to obtain the second ledge. I found it easier to put the big cams on my right. — with Tim Schofield
16 ★★ Rose Ramble 22m — Very Good
Lovely climbing with a fun layback finish. The awkward transition between the pink granite and the vertical cracks was the only kink in an otherwise great climb. — with Tim Schofield
18 ★★★ Winning Streaks 120m, 29 — Crap
Absolutely bullshit approach. Spent three hours walking back and forth on top of the hazards before we found it. After we found it my partner didn't want to climb anymore. I abseiled on 2x 60m ropes to the bottom of the third pitch without issue and then ascended back up. Terrible day out.
To help save anyone else the gonad aching, profanity inducing search for the rap bolts: follow the hiking track to the penultimate peak towards the hazards. Keep to the large rock slabs as much as possible. Eventually you'll be standing on a big bald surface of rock with a number of very large (maybe 3-4m tall) round boulders around you. There's some big, green, mossy ones here that will be pretty obvious at this point. You'll see the top of the hazards as the next peak ahead of you. Poke around on the left side of this area and you'll find one of the couple descent routes down to the top of Winning Streaks. My partner and I stacked a cairn near one of the possible descents. When you get an apparent fork in the descent track, keep to the right, don't go further down, until you get to the dihedral. You'll know you're at the right place when you see the very obvious 90 degree corner. Go directly down from this corner until you find the static safety rope.
😅😅😅 I’m sorry…but you can’t shred on a route because you couldn’t find it. You didn’t climb it. That’s just part of Tassie adventure climbing in a nutshell - the approaches are generally half the battle, and for many…part of the appeal 🤷♂️
Hahaha we’ve all been lost on this approach. Myself once, a friend twice. Suggest you go back and do it because it’s amazing.
Oh I understand that, Nick, but I stand by what I said and did and I am not sorry. That day was horrendous and will probably go down as my single least favourite climbing day ever. We did go back and we did it the very next day. I already put the log up before you guys commented, and yes, Chris, it was amazing. I knew that would override my previous rating so I'm not at all going to apologise or take down what I said before lol, I'm sure many future lost climbers will at least find my adventure relatable, and maybe even have a laugh at my expense. Either way, I'm happy with the situation, except perhaps that I may get other people submitting their opinions to me about this in the future, but I can live with that
Thank you for your approach description - my partner and I would not have found it otherwise! Was a beautiful climb!!
You're welcome! I'm glad you found it and enjoyed the climb, it really is a fantastic route.
Glad you enjoyed the route. Most of the Freycinet climbing approaches require a bit of searching, particularly trying to find the top of a climb. If your modifications to the approach description make it easier for some all good!