Australia • Boulderer Tom session
Tom ticked 5 routes at RnR and mentioned Maurício Chino. • 3291 22.5 Points 5 Points • 5 weeks ago
Ticked 5 routes.
V6 ★★ Pythagoras 4m — Very Good
Hard to repeat because I blew off the first hold but the new sequence works very well too — with Maurício Chino
V5 ★★ Blind Movements 4m — Very Good — with Maurício Chino.
V5 R ★★★ Survival Instinct 7m — Classic
As highballs goes I think this one is awesome, spicy and challenging mentally. Yet Very nice and flowy climb — with Maurício Chino
V4 ★★ Mono A Mono 5m — Classic — with Maurício Chino.
V3 ★★ Jackpot 4m — Very Good — with Maurício Chino.
Related
Maurício Chino edited some topos, an area and some routes at RnR. • 1075 • 5 weeks ago
Created 1 area, 7 routes and 7 topos and deleted 1 topo.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Topo is now disabled.
Topo id was 9392002998.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Made a topo for Valhalla.
Deleted a topo for Valhalla.
Topo is now disabled.
Topo id was 9392002998.
Created the area Valhalla.
Added tag 'Walk off'. — Added tag 'Slab'. — Added tag 'Vertical'. — Added tag 'Roof'. — Added tag 'Overhung'. — Added tag 'New route potential'. — Added tag 'Sandstone'.
Updated node location.
description
Newly developed wall, just a bit further down the track from the old walls in this area.
approach
This area is located further down the track from the original RnR bouldering areas.
From the same car park as RnR, follow the track all the way down to the creek and turn right. Walk around 75m until you see a wooden bridge connecting both sides of the river.
Roughly 5-10m past the wooden bridge on your right there will be a faint path leading up to the cave. You can see the big walls from the main track. (p.s. do not cross the bridge)
Created the route V5 ★★ Blind Movements.
Added height '4'. — Added tag '<5 min'. — Added tag 'Vertical'. — Added tag 'Roof'.
description
Stand start hugging the overhanging feature in the middle of the roof.
LH on the good undercling and RH on the sloper dish on the right side of the feature.
Establish yourself on top of the feature and do a blind move to a pocket on the face to a nice topout.
Back wall on the left is obviously out.
Mauricio ChinoRoute history.
| First ascent: Maurício Chino |
Created the route V5 R ★★★ Survival Instinct.
Added height '6.5'. — Added personal grade contribution 'V5R'.
description
Sit start under the roof and follow the flake feature, topping out slightly left in the middle of the scoop.
Practicing/cleaning the top out on rope is highly recommended. Although it's physically not that hard, it is hard to retreat once you are committed and the landing is bad.
Lower ledge at the start is out.
CAUTION: Obvious flake at 2/3 height has been reinforced with epoxy/threaded steel bar, but approach it with care regardless.
Route history.
| First ascent: Maurício Chino |
Created the route V5 ★★★ Commitment Issues.
Added height '6'.
description
Sit start matched on the lower crimpy rail under the roof and go right following the nice slopers and pockets until the break under the roof. From there tackle the roof and mantle in the middle of the scoop.
Lower ledge at the start is out.
Route history.
| First ascent: Maurício Chino |
Created the route V4 ★★ Mono A Mono.
Added height '4.5'.
description
Sit start on the big jug at the bottom of the face and go directly up on some very cool slopers / monos.
Top out directly above the start, just right of the big roof.
Created the route V3 ★★ Jackpot.
Added height '3.5'.
description
Sit start compressing at the bottom of the overhanging feature with LH on the good sloper and RH on the shallow crimp out right. Go directly up.
Cleaning the top is highly recommended as several leaves accumulate on the top out and the landing is not great in case of a potential fall.
Route history.
| First ascent: Maurício Chino |
Created the route Open Project - Roof Traverse.
Added height '10'.
description
Sit start on the right side of the roof and traverse right for about 7m until the good underclings. From there, go directly out of the roof to get established on the face (crux section) leading to an easier topout.
Lots of cleaning required on the face/topout.
Created the route V6 ★★ Pythagoras.
Added height '4'. — Added personal stars '★★'.
description
Start in the middle of the roof on some tufa-like underclings. Do a few punchy moves to get to the lip before a tricky mantle to establish yourself on the slab. Easy ladder topout with an awesome mono pocket.
Route history.
| First ascent: Maurício Chino |
Maurício Chino ticked 6 routes at RnR and mentioned Tom and Marco Oshiro. • 3301 • 5 weeks ago
Ticked 6 routes.
V6 ★★ Pythagoras 4m — Very Good
Very cool tufa-like holds on the roof and a very enjoyable easy slab.
One of the starting holds used for the FA broke recently, but it still goes with a slightly difference sequence. Probably a tad harder but still fair at solid V6. — with Tom
V5 ★★ Blind Movements 4m — Very Good — with Tom.
V5 R ★★★ Survival Instinct 7m — Mega Classic
So stoked with this one. Although it is not physically that hard it is definitely VERY COMMITTING. I'm on the fence between Hard V4 or Easy V5 (6c). But due to the high risk involved I'm going soft 5 because I don't want anyone getting hurt if they are bad at mantles (crux). — with Tom
V5 ★★★ Commitment Issues 6m — Mega Classic
Absolutely mega classic. My favorite boulder of the entire area by far.
The holds/grips on this climb are pure perfection and the mantle felt very unique.
Never did any mantles like that in a boulder, lots of pulling and pushing in a small box inside a cool feature.
Originally thought it could be a 6, but the fear definitely makes you crank harder than you need. Probably fair at V5 — with Marco Oshiro
V4 ★★ Mono A Mono 5m — Very Good
Originally felt like a 5, but after climbing it again recently with less sand and less moisture I think easy 4 is fair for it.
Kind of spicy topout with good landing.
V3 ★★ Jackpot 4m — Very Good
Very cool compression feature leading to an easy top. Originally thought it was a 4, but just like on Mono a Mono I reconsidered after reclimbing it recently without sandy/damp holds.
Bad landing if you were to fall from the topout.