Routes as aid in Montserrat

One of the last big aid route that remained to be climbed free. It runs along a beautiful, exposed arête on the north-facing 'Paret dels Diables' and was freed with an alternative exit pitch on the 9th October 2020 by Edu Marín. See 'Free Arco Iris'

A mega classic! All belays, except the summit, are triple bolted anchors configured for guide-mode belaying.

1. 30m Solo up the initial slab to the first anchor. Take care if climbing the loose flake / crack to the left.

2. 50m (4) Easy but runout (4 bolts) up the initial slab.

3. 30m (4) More of the same, but with more bolts.

4. 35m (5) Nice climbing beside a left facing corner and through a small roof. Loads of bolts.

5. 20m (5+) Starting to steepen, but still pretty cruisy. Loads of bolts.

6. 30m (6b+) The first "business" pitch - the endurance crux of the route. Moderate start leads to a steepening in the wall, where the difficulties begin. The climbing eases off again once you gain the arete. Very very tightly bolted (take at least 20 quickdraws if you intend to clip everything, but skipping bolts or back cleaning is a better option).

7. 15m (6c) The second "business" pitch - the technical crux of the route. Some very tenuous moves up the steep wall. Also very tightly bolted.

8. 25m (6a) One or two dicky moves around the arete (very well protected), then easy up the juggy slab to the top (a little runout). Belay off the steel contraption with the crown on top of the pinnacle, not the manky old anchor just before the final step.