Routes as sport in Dalpura Wall

Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.

From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.

1. 20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble carefully right along ledge to DBB.

2. 15m (16) Delicate moves on a rising traverse right past four BR to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.

3. 25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot could be helpful to calm the nerves. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.

4. 28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Belay at initial rap point. 11 BRs.

An impressive looking arete - but the route tends to climb mostly on the face well to the right side of the arete. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in rusty carrots with no hangers and should be treated with caution. The route may have only had two ascents as of 2021 - rock is quite fragile. The topo diagram on this page is not accurate regarding the bolt count and number of bolts on rap points. Bring a single set of cams from finger to hand size to beef up anchors and backup some of the crustier bolts. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.

Approach by walking down steep gully 50m to the east of the top of Wafer Thin Fin. At bottom of gully walk left along narrow ledge for 20m to top of route. Look for single rusty carrot on flat top. This bolt marks the top of the rap down point but not the top of the route. Backup single bolt up with finger sized cam in break 3m behind it. Fix rope and rap down wall 30m to double carrot bolt belay and loose hillside. Fix a 70m+ to these bolts and rap down hillside and then down route to base of wall. It's best to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall. Give the holds a scrub whilst your at it - they will be dirty!

1. 35m (24) Up overhung left side of arete until move around to right side. Up to small footledge and semi-hanging DBB. About 11 BRs.

2. 40m (24) Follow the steep line of sandy scoops for miles until it blanks out on a black wall. Thin moves then up to belay at base of steep hillside (Balderstone Point) and single bolt (backup with rap rope!). Move belay up to DBB at base of top pitch. 13 bolts?

3. 35m (24) Hard undercut start then much easier climbing that wanders right then back left. Alarmingly ironstone jug finish. 7 bolts.

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).

Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.

1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end.

2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained!

3. 32m (23M1) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt (tricky to clip!) to knock this pitch down from grade 27 to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof.

4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay.

Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets.

Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.

1. 15m (22) From tiny ledge with no anchors climb leftwards to high first ubolt (try and stick-clip this with a 5m stick so you don't die) then left again to arete. Ponder the lack of holds, find a solution and scuttle up to belay below steep orange arete.

2. 40m (23) Steeply up right side of arete with a few long moves. Cross a minor choss band then continue up the ladder of jugs. Finish with a few techy crimp moves on the left then right side of arete.

3. 40m (18) Jugs to big break, over this then up techy black arete on little ironstone edges. Ramble up ledgy stuff to finish. Bolt plates needed for this pitch. Belay off double BRs.

A big arete.

Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.

1. 50m (27) Rounded arete past bolts to ledge, 2nd bolt needs a sling to ease clip-fear.

2. 50m (18) Loose arete past bolts. Mike thought this was going to be grade 8 when he bolted it.