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Routes as trad in Skyline Buttress

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Mad Carew direct

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

FA: Gregg Beisly, Oct 2022

Mixed trad 20m, 2
16 Mad Carew

Starts 20m left of the other Skyline Buttress climbs. Climb into the scoop below and right of the hanging fang. Not much gear till the fang. Climb around to the left of the overhang and up the cracks to rings at the second ledge. A set of wires and cams to #4 is useful.

FA: P Jemmett, C Smith & G Pickford, 1973

Trad 20m
16 Windfall

A bit winding and overgrown but still a fun outing that can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. Climb the left leaning corner for 10m before making a traverse left around a corner. There is an old rusty piton above to show the way up the wall to a belay (small trees) below the overhangs. Traverse right to the large ledge common with Shelob and then up from the left end of the ledge to the large sloping ledge and bolt belay.

FA: C Smith & P Jemmett, 1973

Trad 45m
20 The Green Dragon

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past 2 bolts through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall to the rings.

FA: P Beisly, 2008

Mixed trad 28m, 7
16 Shelob

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

FA: C Smith & J Sawers, 1972

Mixed trad 35m, 2

Showing all 5 routes.

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