Routes

A fun novelty, involving some airy bridging between two aretes.

The arete left of Mohawkman, pulling onto the pinnacle for the final moves.

This is pretty good. Start a few metres down right of the boulder choke, opposite Pixies Delight. Move right on a ledge to base of diagonal flake/ramp (FH). Follow flake diagonally left until it runs out at FH. Move left to and up seams on grey face (this is just right of the crack and seams of Kempt) to the headwall. Up righthand crack moving slightly right then back left at top (careful with hollow block on left). Easy ground to anchor above Kempt.

The bulgy left side of the wall, to the left-hand summit. The tree helps as hold and pro.

Nice climbing up the thin crack and face. A brass offset covering the #4-5 RP size is useful. Start immediately below the boulder choke, below a thin crack on the right wall. Bridge between the boulder and face to base of crack. Crack and continuation seam. Step right at headwall and up juggy crack to ledge and up to anchor.

Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge).

Takes the seam immediately left of Miss Moneypenny, ie the left side of the Turquoise/Green Shirt wall. Best done as a variant finish to Miss Moneypenny as the start is undistinguished and poorly protected. Either climb the grey wall, moving left until able to chimney and then up to join MissMoneypenny below second bolt, or climb Miss Moneypenny to this point. Now, ignore the bolt and follow the line slightly diagonally left.

At the right-hand end of Echidna Wall is a pretty orange slab with a black stripe up the middle. Puggles takes this line, starting straight up the fingery wall and bulge below the black stripe.

Note: an earlier route up the middle of Echidna Wall was called Puggles, but it’s been consumed by other climbs. So by popular demand we moved the name Puggles up the hill to a new patch of rock.

Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil.

Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower.

These two climbs are on the gentle wall opposite Duck Crag, directly below a slackline launch site. Easily approached via the disabled lookout. Home for Tea is an obvious finish to Duck up the Stairs.

Crack on the wall opposite the northern edge of Duck Crag. The crack leads to a gentle slab, trending left to the top.

Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block.

Good direct climb to top of cliff. Could be split into two pitches if so desired. Starts right of Point Blanc and left of a short left-facing corner further right.

Climb a faint vertical bulge in the cliffline and continue up the obvious short crack/groove. Pass the little rectangular roof on the right and bustle your way over the overhang above that guards the upper part of the cliff. Veer slightly right to finish.

To descend, scramble down the ridge towards camp then find a bollard to make a short rap into the gully towards the Voodoo buttress (sling needed).

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic.

A long second pitch culminating in a fantastic finish up the centre of The Belvedere. Lots of slings and long draws to reduce drag.

1. 35m 17 As for Beetlemania but move up from the rings and belay on right-hand side of ledge. You can belay at the rap rings, but not as comfortable

2. 42m 18 Up the easy ramp above the belay for 7m, and pull over a bulge. Up to next bulge and FH (up to here is as for the second pitch of Riding The Quayle). Climb past the bolt then step left and up to the lovely orange crack leading to the overhang at the base of The Belvedere. Climb the overhang past FH and up to middle of The Belvedere and FH. Up into finishing crack in sensational position (shorter climbers may need to use the guano-stained holds to left to get going).

There are FHs on top to allow a comfortable belay as well as the rap anchor just below the top. 45m abseil to rings near top of first pitch.

Quite committing. Starts 3m right of Zabriskie Delicately past BR (hard to see from the ground) and step right into the line which bounds the right side of the steep wall. Follow the line to the ledge and walk left to the Zabriskie bolts.

Very enjoyable with an interesting mix of styles. Starts 8m or so right of Making The Point.

1. 22m 16 Delicately right past BR and into the left-leaning groove. Follow this the straight up shallow flake-corner and wall to the prominent left-facing corner. Belay anchor at top of corner.

2. 10m 18 Straight up to the short wide crack just below the overhang. Move right through the overhang. Have a sit-down on the lip then move up to anchor. Best to belay and abseil rather than lower as the edges are very rough.

Climb straight up to the left side of the bulge immediately right of Stretching the Point. A runner in that climb protects a blind step right around the bulge. Up the ramp a little then up to the headwall. Up the headwall, starting on the right side then moving left into the centre. Step around left to the Pointy End bolts. Originally finished up right of the headwall before cleaning.

Lovely rock and cute pro. Starts about 4m down and right of Pointy End. Climb up to and past the prominent white streak. Step left and up the line to the Pointy End bolts.

Committing crux with less-than-the-best gear. Left-facing corner at the left end of the cliff, just right of a callitris tree growing adjacent to the wall. Finish up gentle wall to bolt belay.

The easiest route on Broken Song Wall. Nice climbing but the ledge system breaks the flow.

Belay as for Little By Little.

Move right and go up easy ground on Riding The Quayle to ramp at 5m. Step up and go up diagonally right and up to a slight nose. Move around the left side of the nose to avoid large detached blocks and up to a large ledge that stretches off to the right. Lovely climbing up crack on left edge of ledge until it stops. Smooth wall past a FH to lower-off.

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

Start at the right-hand toe of the wall, a few meters right of Alychne, at a seam in nice rock.

1. 23m Up seam to some ledges. Move left back onto front of buttress. Up little buttress (there are some loose blocks just to the left) to large ledge where an obvious big block sticks over the edge. Despite the alarming appearace from below, this block isn’t going anywhere.

2. 12m Go up from the left side of the ledge and continue up.

The central line up the wall has a lot of good climbing. Can be done as one long pitch. The bolt tally is for the top pitch.

1. 25m Do 'Velvet Green', or Mother Brown.

2. 30m 21 Step left from belay and through the first overlap past FH as for Surfacing, step right and up into shallow corner then swing back left and pretty much straight up to rap anchor.

The arete right of the first pitch of Eskimo Nell. Not a great choice of placements on the first half. Take a pink (0,5) Tricam (seriously) and Metolius 0. Start just left of the arete right of the initial crack of Eskimo Nell. Follow seams just left of arete (crux, fiddly gear or long stick-clip) to bolt and onto a narrow ledge. Move right to the arete and up arete into a broken area. Don't veer off but finish steeply up the arete. Rap anchor (not lower-off).

Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms.

Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m.

Takes the big wall around right from Leather Bound. So-so. Start up the gulch between Leather Bound and The Great White Hope, moving left to the prominent crackline on the wall around right from Leather Bound. Up crackline, step right through bulge, then finish up corner system on the front shoulder of the buttress.

The next three routes start in the gully behind Starless Buttress, left and slightly lower than the huge chockstone. The starts are hidden by the top of Starless Buttress in the topo.

Start as for 'The Empty Quarter'.

1. 15m (15) Up to thin crack and up past bolt. Easier face left of bushy groove to big ledge.

2. 35m (16) Pull onto buttress just right of Ngarrinarri and up and right at bolt. Up a few moves just right of centre then step back left and steeply up the centre of the buttress. Easy slabby country leads to the top, taking the last little step to the left or right.

Lovely face climbing, especially with the new start. It's a good idea to reserve two #1 (Red) and one #2(Gold) Camalots or equivalent for above the bolts. Start below the tree at the start of 'Shadrach'. Up immediately left of the tree (originally past right side of tree). Move out right on the horizontal tree-trunk to BR. Climb face right of crack past another BR to tree belay and abseil.

Up the Lockwood Slot! Hopefully not it's final name. Has nothing in common with its namesake. The inverted funnel just right of Twinkle Toes. Climb the initial wall and move back into the depths of the Hardly Slot and up until possible to chimney horizontally back out. When possible pull onto the right arete and bridge up (as for finish of Antiquity).

Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle.

This is the black left-facing corner at the left end of the worthwhile area of the cliff. Climb past the steep start and finish up jugs to abseil from a tree.

Nice corner with good gear, just beware of a few loose blocks at the start and finish. Starts approx 40m N (RHS) of rockfall, at slabby corner.

Major wide corner right of Full Metal Underpants. It’s a great line, but most of us don’t own the gear needed to lead it. Take 1 x #3 Big Bro, Camalots 2 x #3, 3 x #4, 1 x #5, and a light rack of wires and small cams (or a top rope). If you’ve got the gear, and still want to do the climb, proceed as follows:

1. 15m Up easily to foot of line. Right facing fla ke to bushy ledges. Up to foot of main corner.

2. 20m (crux) Up, you shouldn’t get lost.

Takes the front of the main buttress. Start in cav e 4m up right of Exit Stage Left.

1. 20m (crux) Go up and right onto the front of the buttress. Up left over bulge then easily up to stance.

2. 5m Up

At the left side of the slabs is a corner. Climb up a seam and then reach left to the bottom of the corner. Climb the corner for a few metres then move right to a face crack. Head up to the roof at the top of the slabs then move left on pockets through the roof. The abseil is 35m from a tree.

Approximately 100m right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is a large boulder. It has a thin diagonal crack and one end is shaped like an egg. “Iron cross” into the diagonal line then head up the diagonal crack for 6m to a horizontal break. Hand traverse left to a stance and then follow the thin seams up the slab (RPs).

Start 50m to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. Climb up 2m to an undercut wall then step onto the natural cairn feature and breach the bulge. Climb the wall on pockets until they become slopes then move right and up to a rest. Head up the overhanging crack-line left of the corner and then up a groove in the wall above. Continue up until the groove peters out and move right to a left-trending crack system that leads to the top.

5-10mins right of the B. Desh Memorial Buttress is an outcrop with some overhangs. Start at the main corner at the right end. Climb onto the undercut arete on the left and head up and right into the line. Keep left to avoid vegetation until it’s possible to climb the final corner.

Near the centre of the crag, at it’s highest point, is a small pale slab approximately 7m above the ground. Climb up to below the hanging corner/overlap. (Crux) Climb up to, and up, the corner and over the bulge at the top of the slab. Continue up, heading slightly right, then up the right-facing corner at the top of the wall until an overhang is reached. Move left and then climb the arete to the top.

Head right from Haddock’s Revenge to the left end of a large crag. Continue along some broken buttresses until the crag steepens into a wall with two prominent crack-lines that are undercut. The left one splits into two thin cracks at about 20m, and the right one turns into a corner. This is the left crack.

1. 25m Climb up into the undercut, overhanging chimney and then bridge up until it’s possible to climb up steeply on large holds (crux). Continue up to where the crack splits and follow the cracks to a small stance.

2. 15m Climb the slabs to an abseil tree.

A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.

1. 18m From the small cairn 10m right of Fool's Gold, climb the slabby wall to a large tree (landmark) at the right end of a bushy ledge. Up the corner just right of this to a major horizontal break. Head left on this for 3m to a corner with a wide crack (#4 Friend for belay).

2. 17m (crux) Step up left to the next corner and climb it.

Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.

1. 18m (crux) Straight up the hard little groove 3m right of The Desperate and Divided Years to a horizontal break. Climb the steep wall above, then easy climbing to below a roof. Up the flakes to under the right side of the roof, then go left under it and back right up the crack above it to a corner.

2. 12m Step right onto the arete and climb it in a dramatic position.

Good Climbing. Head up the juggy crack on the small buttress 1m right of Late for the Sky. Pull onto the slab above the steep section and go up to the overlap. Go 2m right under this, then climb the wall to join Epic Master at a small tree.

Seam a couple of metres right of headwall of 'Touch-Type' and just left of the finish of The Singing Wire.

Sustained and balancy face climbing. Narrow, grey buttress at right end of cliff distinguished by rounded horizontal breaks. Climb just right of lef t arête. Abseil from tree on ledge above buttress.

Starts 1/2 m right of Maharajah. Pull onto the wall via a jug then step right and then more easily but boldly up. Move right to incipient flake, then up past two fixed hangers to the ledge at the top of the block. Belay/abseil rings.

An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.

1. 27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.

2. 15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.

Maybe someone could push it through to the second terrace without going back into the Exit Cracks. Start at the base of the left=hand Exit Crack. Climb up left to the top of the detached buttress. Step across onto the main wall and pick your way up. Eventually move back right and rejoin the left Exit Crack about 10 metres below the Second Terrace and continue up.

Start at the corner on the right edge of the summit block (as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'). A rising traverse left around the arete and up and leftward across the face (2FHs) leads to a groove near the left side of the face. Up this and beyond past a third FH.

The upper L end of the L cliff is a pinnacle. Start up short, wide corner crack below chimney separating pinnacle from buttress to its R. Step R onto buttress and climb prominent crack with 2 steep sections. Take large cam [BD#4]