This is a quality crack climb with solid exposure, committing moves and an off-width crack to finish. Take a #6 Cam and plenty of extendable draws/slings to minimise drag.
Start 2 meters right of FiTS on ground level. Climb up and right to sling the obvious tree and then carefully traversing left again to the base of the obvious crack line. (This first section is a bit dangerous, so you may want to start at this ledge instead of the ground.) Follow the crack and choose the left-hand line at the fork, power up the off-width to the top. Belay from the tree or further back. Descend from any of the chains around the top of Katana.
This climb starts to the right of Wayne's World sector and meanders its way up the south wall topping out at the left shoulder of the summit. The FA's did not plan on going all the way but a lack of any real plan and sketchy lower offs meant this appeared as the only real option!
Start early, avoid rainy weather, carry head torches for all climbers, take phones and be willing to run it out.
There are probably far better equipped routes so this is not recommended unless you are up for an adventure
Head to Wayne's World and start approximately 30m right of "Gas Works" in what looks like a fairly good corner. Make a belay in the small tree at the top of the sloping slab. (12)
Head up trending right over a low jagged rocky ridge with minimal gear for another 45m to another small tree.
Fairly good climbing up slabs to a dirty corner for belay. (55m 8)
Climb through the rocks and shrubs until you get to the base of another wall (45m 4). Now walk right along the apron with a false sense of hope that you are somewhere near the summit for about 40m until you realise that things are getting steep and you should tie in again.
About the point where you can't walk any further east, head up an almost vertical, exposed outcrop for about 14 metres (13) until you reach a very healthy looking young adult gum tree. It makes an excellent anchor for belaying the second climber, with a good view to the east across a vegetation-filled gully to a towering crag of volcanic columns.
The best pitch. Climb upwards and to the left through large jagged rocks, into a deep, right facing crack for protection and use the large unusual features of the uncharacteristically cream coloured right face to reach yet another tree/shrub belay at the top of the short wall. (35 m - 16)
Pitches 7 - 10 are a good practice in slinging marginal gear comprising of hedges and shrubs. Memory of this is hazy due to one head torch used between 2 climbers, who were on occasions up to 50 metres apart! Having several footholds break off in total darkness, part-way up a grade 13 pitch, was the most vivid memory of this section of the climb! Especially as there wasn't a lot in the way of good placements.
