Routes

It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

1. 20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Prusiks! 8 bolts.

2. 58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arête. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete (extender(s)) and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (A few long runners recommended).

3. 14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face (staying away from loose plates of rock) to top ledge. 3 bolts.

If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s.

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave.

The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.

1. 27m (12) Bridge around grasstrees then up bomber handcrack (jugs abound) then bushbash up easy vegetated ledges for 10m to large ledge. Belay off finger crack sized trad gear in crack just right of arete with old piton at the base. (A cleaner alternative is to do the first pitch of Cynics United and walk left)

2. 27m (16) Clip the manky piton (good wire and small cam around corner) and do a tough reachy move onto the arete. Up the face with distant pro for 8m to horizontal break (there is a good #0.75 and #0.5 camalot placement at 4m and a large nut placement at 6m). Traverse right slightly along this break to gain the vegetated crack on the right above overhung corner. Up this crack on good cams to belay on large ledge. Trad belay. This pitch can also be climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start, which climbs the tips crack on the right side of the arete into the top section of the original pitch.

3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' orange corner crack to lip, then juggy corner to cave and trad belay. You can easily join this pitch into the next one (use lot of extenders).

4. 20m (15) Continue up the crack that turns into a rightwards leading ramp that eventually ends with a steep mantle onto a good ledge and tree belay (can be backed up with #2 camalot).

To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge.

The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall, and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of Ben Trovato at small tree.

1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

2. 28m (24) Fantastic climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

1. 27m (22) 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

2. 30m (21) 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

3. 35m (17) 12 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

4. 10m (15) 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards.

Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it.

Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock.

This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare.

Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality).

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch. Without trad you will be SOLOING this pitch.

3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at one of two sets of DRBs. The right one is best for the trad corner - the left is best for the bolted grade 17 variants. Either way - this is an exposed belay to rockfall - be prepared to dodge.

5. 40m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m, move left a few moves when possible then continue up subtle trad protected corner for another 10m to low double bolt belay - or even better a massive tree belay another 10m up the hill. Technically this is called the 'Variant Finish' but is the common way this route is now done.

The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website.

The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below.

Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15.

Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams.

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.

2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.

3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimise rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.

4. 23m (21) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.

5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

2. 25m (18) 2 Ubolts then stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to first cave and DBB hidden around to the left.

3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right easily to second cave then up and out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. You can belay here or clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates over roof past Ubolts on left, then diagonally R to top and tree belay well back.

A long, adventurous route up a prominent line. Some good exposure and excellent long pitches. Rock is of mixed quality, but bad sections can be avoided. Several pitches are broken up by 50m hikes up steep, loose, vegetated sections which can be quite taxing when added to the length of the climb. Rope drag can be a problem on some of the long pitches, and can be mitigated with twin ropes of at least 60m in length (but be careful of rope tangling during the hikes). Be sure to bring at least a full rack of Cams up to #5 (possibly doubles up to #3), wires, plenty of slings, and optionally a set of hexes (good placements on last pitch). Helmets are a must against loose rock/vegetation, and headlamps are recommended. Starting from the 8th pitch there are a few carrot bolts (slightly off-route) so bring a few bolt plates in case you want to use them.

1. 13m (13) Marked start of the climb. A tricky and rather poorly protected traverse left leads to a large cave (good gear to protect second), walk left past a loose block to a belay out on the arete.

2. 35m (9) A long and pleasant pitch up the nice tortoise shell wall above, getting easier with height. Wire and cam belay.

3. 42m (11) Step up on top of the large flat block, place some gear at the back of the scoops, then step right to steep and juggy moves. These lead up for about 8m to a bushy ledge. Walk left along this, slightly down around the arete and left for approximately 30 metres across an easy wall to a tree below a crack through the bulge. Tree belay. Rope drag on this pitch is a serious concern.

4. 55m (9) A really enjoyable and surprisingly long pitch. Head up the crack for a couple of metres then step out onto the right face. A long and juggy wall awaits, with a variety of gear. Tree belay on the halfway ledge. Follow the track up or 40m to the start of the upper cliffline.

5. 58m (9) Start on the juggy face just to the right of the short right facing offwidth corner crack in the block. Another long, juggy and really enjoyable slab, with some good exposure up higher and well spaced but adequate protection. Go up for about 15m, left and up onto next slab, right at the top to avoid steep bit. Rope drag this pitch is a serious issue. Can be mitigated with double ropes. Walk up to next cliff.

6. 55m (13) An excellent pitch and one of the hardest on the route. Up the lovely corner above, then up two lovely little 5m finger size layback cracks above that. Tree belay.

7. 35m (13) Climb the initially vegetated, but nice corner up to the big roof, then traverse left to the arete. Straight up this, using the face on either side when it blanks out (take care of the hollow flakes on the right of the arete). A #5 Camalot is highly recommended for this section. Continue up to small tree and mid size cam belay. Walk 25m right to the obvious chossy chimney and a poor belay off a small tree.

8. 30m (8) Up the chossy and unpleasant chimney for 8m or so (some pro in crack in left wall), then traverse out right on the easy ledge to big exposure being careful to avoid the flakes and weakened rock. Up the short wall to the next ledge, then crawl back left to the belay cave. Ridiculous rope drag is inevitable on this pitch, but can be mitigated with double ropes. Very poor belay off a single small thread in choss at the back of the cave. The second should exercise extreme care on this pitch, since a fall could blow the belay. There is good gear 1m higher on the left wall of the crack to beef up the belay. NOTE: There is a bomber thread inside the cave that goes from the bottom right (facing in) up the back to the outside of the cliff, a 120cm, thin (Dyneema) sling is required to reach and fit through the little hole. a poking stick helps too.

9. 30m (6) Step left onto the easy wall, place a #4.5 or #5 Camalot just above the roof then easily up a dirty groove to the final ledge. A single carrot bolt sits at the bottom of the off-width crack for belay. Walk 20m right to the end of the ledge and the base of the final pitch, twin rings for belay. NOTE: Pitches 8 and 9 can be linked by continuing straight up the wide corner above the chimney, instead of traversing right. This is a much better alternative, though a little runout.

10. 30m (9) Step up and right onto a small ledge below a left leading groove. Delicate stemming up the groove leads to a banksia tree and a final small ledge. Good gear in lovely crack on right then step up and over final 8 foot wall to the top. Twin rings for belay. Walk right 30m until you meet Canyon exit track, and follow this back to the carpark.

A light rack of cams (maybe BD 0.3 - 3) is more than enough to protect this. Most bolts are carrots

1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. Many people don't find the start of this and have epics, walk 8m, find the DBB!

2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall (crux). Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend or purple camalot.)

4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB (at your feet).

5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

One of the best mini-multis for a quick, exposed and scenic adventure in the Blue Mountains. This route is highly visible to the tourist hoards passing overhead on the Scenic Skyway cablecar and nearby lookouts. On a busy weekend expect to be hassled and photographed relentlessly. There have been reported incidents of police meeting climbers on the top-out after tourists thought the climbers were stuck and rang 000.

This route can be done as a run-out sport route (bring 15+ draws) or a saner mixed route with the addition of a single set of cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot. Long runners are useful to reduce rope-drag and for a thread on pitch 1. This route no longer requires bolt plates.

Start: Make your way to the lookout on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk directly below the Katoomba side of the Scenic Skyway. From the lookout the rap point is on the small but obvious rock platform 30m down and to the left. There is a well beaten dirt track leading to this spot (it's a popular Instagram selfie area)

There are 2 ringbolts to rap off hidden back from the edge obscured by some bushes. Do NOT rap off the 2 carrot bolts a few metres further left. Fix a 70m rope to these anchors and rap down to the major vegetated starting ledge. It is possible to rap and pull ropes if you build an anchor that gets over the top edge. 30m to the mid height rap chain followed by a 40m rap to the bottom of the route. Facing the cliff, the route starts on a ledge a few metres up and to the left of where you touch down with a single bolt belay.

1. 45m (22) A long pitch. After a very hard start move trend right up the ramp. Now climb up and up and up, mainly on jugs, but even so there is one unnerving run out section. A 60cm sling for an obvious thread can mitigate the runout. Eventually you come to the belay chain.

2. 30m (22) An excellent pitch with a couple of tricky sections to keep things interesting. Cams help alleviate runouts. Don't forget to smile for the cameras.

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots. Faces south west - so shade until early afternoon.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belays, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp rope-cutting ironstone which is abundant on this route. There is plenty of loose rock on this route - be careful to stick to the line and not stray into the chossville around it. Helmets highly recommenced and be very careful if there are multiple parties on the route at the same time.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.)

Follow the track around to the right, traversing at the height of the U-bolt until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass another U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is right above huge drop-off so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

2. 25m (19). Soft, sandy slopers mostly. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts at ledge.

3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Finish at multiple U-bolts on top ledge.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

1. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

Start: Start as for Laws Effort, at the like-new painted initials "LE", about 20m L of the very obvious 'Fuddy Duddy'.

1. 20m (23) The best pitch, and the hardest. Straight up on excellent rock via sustained great moves.

2. 20m (22) Generally follows the rightwards arcing corner/roof, but its easiest to stay out on the slab, to the right of the bolts. Good thin slab moves to finish.

3. 25m (22) Funky moves up short corner, then traverse R 5m along break. Steeply through orange bulges. You can walk off left from here if you want to skip the last pitch.

4. 20m (22) Fun monkeying out low roof, then easy corner. R through bulge then back L onto final thin face. It's about 10 grades easier if you climb 2m to the right of the last 2 bolts.

Both pitches can be combined - bring a lot of bolt plates!

1. 20m (18) Fun juggy face, through a bulge then traverse left to small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

2. 35m (15) Long exposed face. This pitch is all on carrots (10 bolt plates are needed + 2 extra if using top belay carrots). Double ring bolt belay or top out and use carrots set back from the edge. Walk off unless you have double ropes.

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts.

Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

1. Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large belay ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

2. Up trending right on some fragile ironstone, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top just right of a home made rusted fixed hanger from the past.

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

1. Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

2. Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch.

Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

1. A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

2. Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

Enjoyable face climbing.

Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

1. Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to ringbolt belay at the big horizontal.

2. Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to double ring belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in anchors a few metres further up.

1. Stick clip first ring to get through the steep sandy start to the jugs. Tricky move past 2nd ring leads to beautiful steep climbing on good holds. 11 draws

2. Steep start to an awkward move with two pockets which leads to good moves on a seam. An exciting sequence brings you to jugs through a beautiful orange roof. Take extenders to reduce rope drag. 9 draws. This pitch can also be finished by traversing left under final bulge and up to Wake Up anchor.

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

1. Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascensionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

2. Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

Exposed and exciting. Do not try and combine the pitches.

1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete on triangular foot ledge. DBB.

2. 20m (21) Follow the RBs up, then hard R under overlap (some long runners helpful) to super exposed arete conclusion. Belay on small ledge. To exit either climb up another 7m to rings just below the summit, or traverse off right past clusterf&*k of anchor bolts on the mystery route. Either way stay roped up.

1. 25m (16) Ringbolts on R side of arete. Ignore first set of DBB on pillar at 10m, these are for GL. Optional #1 cam eliminates runout to anchor.

2. 25m (13) Continue up arete to ledge below roof.

3. 25m (19) Through roof, then L across face to surf over exciting and exposed, leaning arete. Anchor well back on ledge (best to rap, not lower).

A moderate-grade headwall pitch above The Phoenix, with WILD exposure! (Just forget about the average first pitch).

Can be climbed via the proper First Pitch, or can be easily abseiled into from the top. See notes for The Phoenix area.

P1 - 20m (15) The Access Pitch. Start at the bolt at the end of the fixed rope traverse (8m RIGHT of The Phoenix abseil anchors). Up to first bolt (some loose rock) via corner system, then traverse left on HUGE holds but with amazing exposure past 5 more bolts. After last bolt (long sling), climb delicately up past scarily loose rock to belay below headwall).

P2 - 25m (21) The Money Pitch. Up flake, hand traverse left, then up past 8 bolts with monsterous exposure but no really hard moves. Belay on obvious rap anchors back from edge, or lower off. Some choss still to go, but 90% good rock.

EXIT: Directly BELOW the belay at the start of the headwall are 5 bolts that can be used to redirect the abseil rope BACK under the rooflet to the anchors above The Phoenix. Alternatively, top out and bring up your second, and walk directly up vague trail to rejoin the walkdown track.

Quite the traversity. An airy steep multi-pitch sport route which stays in the shade until 2pm. Due to the tourist track running underneath this route keep an eye on knocking off loose rock on the 2nd and 4th pitches and avoid doing the route during busy holiday periods (xmas/easter etc). The first three pitches can be done by themselves and is choss free (35m rap back to ground). Bring 16 draws and a couple of single length runners.

1. 40m (19) Slab up the wall with a left trend to the big horizontal break underneath the huge roof. Scuttle hard left for 15m then finish up nice purple face. Pull on the hanging short rope to avoid an unpleasant mantle onto the shale ledge. 14 bolts. You can bail left from here by walking off along ledge and around to tourist track.

2. 7m (2) Crawl right along shale slot to large ledge belay. There is a fixed rope across this currently. Belay off single bolt and low first lead bolt on next pitch.

3. 15m (20) Steep wall and slabby corner to sweet ledge belay. 6 bolts. 35m rap from here (70m rope doubled) makes it to the ground.

4. 30m (19) Right and up steep wall with sections of shale and looseness. Be very careful not to knock anything off onto track below. 9 bolts. Belay on top of cliff (no rap back down possible from top). To exit walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

1. 20m (19) Up slab.

2. 20m (18) Up wall to ledge.

3. 15m (17) Up arete

If you climb with double 50's you can abseil straight off the rings. A 50m rope reaches the ground.

Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018.

Park at 'Pulpit' Rock carpark and walk down towards 'Pulpit' Rock (take care if using Google maps, there are two or three pulpit rock lookouts/carparks. Use the link provided to get the correct one). Turn off left at the 12th drain (wide wooden drains cross this track) after about 200m. Follow the evident trail trending right for about 60m leading to the ridge line. At this point turn L and look for a single RB. Hook in here with your safety line and set up your ropes off the 2RB's around the corner. Rap down 46m passing FH's and RB's to the ledge.There's a belay on the left and on the right, use the ones on the left. Set up your ropes off draws (as there is a lot of friction, hard to pull ropes otherwise) on these RB's and rap 46m to the base. Best to belay to the tree and belay the next climber on the exposed 'walk' to the right. Facing the cliff walk 20m right taking care and up to the tree in the corner where the route starts (single ring belay, and good tree on right). Take 16 draws, and a couple for the anchors.

1. 45m (16) Up the wall left of the corner on a little rib, staying right of dead tree. Diagonally left across slabby wall with one thin section. 16 rings to 2RB belay on the RHS of the big ledge.

2. 40m (18) Move belay 5m to the left. Head up and left to ledge. Head up though exciting bulge and onto slab. Up to traverse then pull up onto face. Climb to crack and up to belay station.

3. 15m (15) The Champagne pitch! Start up 3D chimney with holds everywhere. Shuffle thru this, past 2 bolts and launch out, around and up to exciting headwall overlooking the spectacular Grose Valley below.

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the left side of a major buttress, generally staying a few metres R of Moonlight Corner.

Access by either abseil (via Date with Density raps) or walk in (check access description for this area).

Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density (8-10m left of where the abseil lands). It’s worth taking a good look up the corner before you start; if pitch 1 is a bit seepy but climbable, the corner sections of pitches 3&4 may be soaking wet and unclimbable.

1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

If you're looking for an easier but similarly excellent outing on great rock, a good link would be p1 of Beggars Banquet, p2 of Upstaged, then p3-7 of Regular Route, for pitches of 22,23,24,21,24,22,23.

The top 2 pitches of BB are worth doing in their own right, with simple single 50m rap access. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in 50m as for the top rap of DwD. Belay on ledge.

1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22. Take at least 16 draws + DUBB.

1. 30m (22) First pitch of Beggars Banquet. Belay off large tree. Then scramble 20m up left.

2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to semi-hanging belay. This starts off in the corner directly below large capping roof 40m higher. It's best to link pitch 2 into the short pitch 3 traverse (a roller biner helps).

3. 10m (8) Traverse right to DRB in the corner at the base of Fat Yak pitch 1.

4. 40m (22) Fat Yak pitch 1

5. 40m (22) Beggars Banquet pitch 5 to semi-hanging belay.

6. 15m (21) Beggars Banquet pitch 6 to top. It's feasible to link pitch 5 into pitch 6 with 1-2 well-placed rollers and 18 draws.

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density (requires 2 x 50m+ ropes) and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, however there is no top anchor (or quality rap-tree), thereby making this tricky.

If rapping the route: From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (consider roping up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp. Down fixed rope for 20m, and either establish an abseil-anchor off the bottom of the fixed rope, or sling 50 shrubs together. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start. If abseiling the route, consider cleaning the crux pockets on P1, as they acquire dirt.

Start below chimney slot, left of stunning thin crack (ORANGE JAM / This is Your Brain On Crack).

1. 22m (23/24) Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. 6 UBs.

2. 35m (22/23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. Belay off bomber tree just below vegetated scree-slope. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (17 UBs) with 70m rope).

3. 50m (23) Corner, grovel through some loose rock, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. A fantastic pitch. Sustained, but with no real hard move. Easier than P1. 12 U-bolts.

4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

5. 30m (22) Blast thru fun, juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and into scrubby top-out. No anchor or sturdy belay tree. Either sling a bunch of shrubs, or belay off the bottom of the fixed hand-over-hand rope 5m above the topout. 6 U-bolts.

Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

A fantastic mid grade multi, fully equipped with ringbolts and U's as a sport climb. 16 standard sport quickdraws plus whatever your usual multi harness requires. There is also potential to link pitches (if you could be bothered bringing that many draws) as it is a drag free wall. Wall gets sun in summer at 11:30 and earlier as winter sets in. Approach is now possible on foot as for Serendipitous Walls sector. It's the obvious route above you as you approach rap point for serendipitous wall, scramble up and left before the sketchy hill with grasstree. Can be combined with lower cliff for convenient multi-pitch. At top of climb walk up to higher terrace then right under small clifflet then back left up to Bald Head along vague trail to first saddle on left, where you had started serendipitous track.

1. 18, 30m

2. 18, 20m

3. 19, 30m

1. 15m (19) Lovely techy slab (with infamous reachy move) to comfy belay ledge. Stays damp after any rain.

2. 28m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRBB 2m back over the top.

One of the mountains' finest arete routes - that can be led in either two shorter pitches with a hanging belay - or one long pitch (long runners required). Route was fully rebolted with rings in 2022 - no bolt plates required unless you want to clip one of the old carrots on the halfway belay stance.

Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

1. 28m (24) Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m (high first bolt left of the small ledge). Traverse left to the arête (improving rock quality). Now strenuously up the arête to an optional hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch. Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

Ok climbing (mostly) on generally ok rock (some spooky choss) with generally ok pro (trad with a few carrots).

The belays are usually trees or bolts to enable retreat. Most of the pitches are about 16 to (hard) 18 with the top pitches being the hardest (thrutchy cracks). Probably worth 20 for the epic factor, and the style (slabs and cracks). Best done on a long cool day (October, November?). Gets sun after noon, take plenty of water, and don't drink from the Grose. It’s a bit of an epic to access, and to escape from.

Access - Easiest to approach traditionally from Perry’s Lookdown. Walk down to Bluegum Forest and then walk back up the valley a bit (looks more like 2km or so), cross the Grose River (-33.594528,150.361746, or Mt Wilson sheet 8030-1N KH550796), and find the creek below Original Route and the Central Gully (maps!). There's a fat orange tree right on the track with "Turn O" carved on the north (back) side, cross the river about 30m south of this. Walk up the ridge just right of the creek to below the huge left facing choss corner (pitches 6 and 7) on the 2nd Tier, and traverse left 50m to start left of orange wall at ground level (see picture of Pitch 1 above).

When you finish the climb, walk 20m up the gully to a good track heading left. After 200m turn left at the Cairn, finish up Pitch 20. Regaining the track, after about 10-15 minutes it drops down over some fallen trees onto to the summit walking track, left up this another 300m then down and right to carpark (45 minutes, take a torch).

1. 30m Start left of orange rock, up to fixed hanger at 10m, then to ledge belay.

2. 20m Walk left and up corner.

3. 30m Up wall.

4. 40m Up easy slab to corners. Up to tree with rope marker.

5. 50m (Scary walk) Go right (belayed) about 10m and scramble up 1st ledge below 100m choss corner.

6. 25m Up corner, loose. U + gear belay.

7. 25m Up left wall, step R into corner. U + gear belay

8. 20m Walk easily left to block, bolt and U on lip.

9. 50m Up and slightly leftwards forever, 2U + bolt belay (poor rock) on the exposed perch out left (The 11 o'clock pitch, that's the direction you head, and you should be on it by then).

10. 25m Left and up scary erosion groove. Step right at top and up slope to tree and 2nd ledge. 2nd ledge, walk up 15m and then left 40m to weird old 2 bolt anchor with tat. Next pitch starts in sloping dirty corner just to the left.

11. 20m Up finger crack ramp and slab to 2BB. Stay out right.

12. 25m Right to groove and up, then black slab to small trees (can link to next pitch if you have cams for the top).

13. 15m Up wall to big tree.

14. 30m Up sandy seam, right and up tricky slab, wires in finger crack.

15. 15m Easily up ridge to 3rd ledge. Walk down and left across gully past chossy white corner, and left 40m more to big black corner.

16. 25m Up corner, hand, offwidth (basalt chock stones!), and flare in corner, tree belay (don’t use the dead one like I did)

17. 20m Up gully to base of main corner.

18. 25m Up corner then left wall and crack, sling runners near top, 2UB

19. 20m Right into corner and weird moves into crack on right wall. Follow thrutchy crack (plus chockstones if you are out of big gear) then up to 2UB on right wall high. Then walk out and finish up Pitch 20!

Gear: Take a single rack of cams, finger to a big fist sized and doubles of hand-size, wires, a bunch of brackets (and wires you can use for clipping also). 3L of water, torch.

Escape: On the 1st ledge it’s possible to scramble left through horrendous scrub and past Original route, then up the access ramp (rope) then up to carpark. About 2.5 hours. Probably safer to rap and walk back down to Bluegum and up (rap plus 2 hours). There is an awesome bivvy hut on the 1st ledge about 8 minutes’ walk left of the big corner, built in the 50's, no water though.

On the 2nd ledge, walk right easily for 30 minutes and up 10m to the fire trail and turn left. About 70 minutes from here back to Mt Banks carpark. You can go left along the 2nd ledge but it gets funky. There is a good cave where someone had an epic bivvy about 40m right of the top of pitch 10 on the 2nd ledge.

On the 3rd ledge apparently you can walk off left, but few details so don’t try it in the dark. There is a sandy cave atop pitch 15. Rap to 2nd ledge and go off right.

One the most sustained face routes in the Bluies. Excellent and very vertical climbing, the runout sections are easier than they look. Fully rebolted 2023 using SRC Rebolting funds - please donate!

The climbing takes about 4-6 hours. Take slings, 15 draws and double 50m ropes (for the rap in).

Retreat, rap down, walk down to Bluegum and up to Perrys (2+ hours) then hitch back to Blackheath. Maybe bring walking shoes.

Access and descent: Walk/bike ride around Mt Banks on Mt Banks Road for 4.7km to small saddle with epic view (GPS -33.5999, 150.3702). Scramble down towards Grose Valley for 10m then walk right (north) under small upper cliffline for 200m to large orange cave/overhang (GPS -33.5981, 150.3695). There’s a cairn on the edge of the cave, about 5m south (left facing out) of the point of the triangle roof. Scramble carefully down below the cave under 5m cliffline to find small ledge and triple ringbolt rap anchor. Rap straight down 10m onto dirty slope and to a rap station (belay # 5) on the edge of the mega cliff, 1m south of a little tree. Abseil down the route. There are a selection of rings and chains on the belays. Leave some water on “The Oasis” too.

Start: Scramble up 10m to a ledge about 8m south (right) of the corner (Pestosterone) to a short crack. Inspection of the climbing helps as you rap in.

1. 35m (20) Thin crack and slab to ledge.

2. 35m (20) Up and left into corner line, up to tree and big ledge.

3. 45m (24) Sustained up to small ledge (“The Oasis”). 12 bolts

4. 45m (23) Thin start just left of belay then right and up, runout up and right (medium cam if you’re scared) then back left to anchor.

5. 35m (22) Up to edge of cliff. Rock quality deteriorates in top half of this pitch.

6. 10m (5) Scramble up steep loose slope, surmount short wall (bolt) and up to top and bolt belay where you rapped in from. This pitch can be linked with pitch 5 but communication with your 2nd will be impossible.

A gem of a climb in a magnificent setting and historically one of the first multi-pitch sport routes in the Bluies. A rare big wall that suits lazy starters - it dips into shade after 10am in summer. Many non-lazy climbers combine it with with Smegadeath for a full day out. The route is mostly juggy with a few smaller holds and not too hard for the grade. Although it was rebolted in 2021 the original older vibe still remains - it is more runout than many of the newer sport multis - a few cams can help if this is at your limit. Take about 12 quickdraws, 2x60m+ ropes, and above all, prusiks! No bolt-plates required.

1. 40m (21) Trend left up face onto overhung juggy arete and finish up grey wall to tiny ledge and anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt is highly recommended. Approx 10 bolts.

2. 20m (21) Right trending wall on extraordinary featured rock. The orange slopes are delicious. Belay on tiny ledge under the daunting steepness.

3. 33m (23) A remarkable pitch. Left through steepness onto subtle arete. Step right onto unique and unnerving thin flake (treat this with extreme caution) and up pumpy steep wall until the angle changes to less army and more footy. Belay is right at the top of the cliff at awkward small stance (semi-hanging belay).

Descend by rapping down pitch 3 using double ropes (clipping into a few bolts to stay connected to the steep wall). [Alternatively, you can lower off pitch 3 with a single 70m rope, with a few metres to spare (knot in end!), so everyone can lead it. The oddly positioned rap rings will massively twist your rope, so its best if the first leader lowers off draws, and the second leader abseils. This also means your 2nd rope only needs to be towed to the 2nd anchor, and its bottom end can stay on the ground]. Then one long 60m rap down pitches 2&1 to the ground. 50m ropes will not make it down in one go. It's possible to do it in three raps with a bit of a swing on pitch 2. Walking off is not recommended as it puts you all the way back on the highway at least two kilometres away from the carpark.

Classic sport multi up one of the biggest walls in the Bluies - and with a rare cruisy walk-in approach (no rap ropes required!). Rebolted 2022 with glue-in ringbolts so this route no longer requires bolt plates - 20 draws and a single rope is fine. Long draws and a couple of slings will help alleviate rope drag on the longer pitches. Everyone should carry prusiks. All belays are on reasonably comfy ledges and it is possible to rap retreat from 4 pitches up in an emergency - any higher and you would have to down aid the roof pitch (double ropes required).

1. 50m (22) A pumper pitch that climbs way better than it looks. Short left facing wide corner crack to start (1 bolt). Take a breath on the large ledge (belay possible if you have a short rope). Launch left and up long black face which trends left for about 35m before heading up face just left of arete. Belay on tiny awkward ledge so you can see 2nd - then move belay up 6m to larger ledge.

2. 35m (20) Annoying lip mantle to start (crux) then cruisy runout slab to reach another band of vegetation. Scramble through this and up to belay ledge.

3. 30m (22) Traverse left and up wall just left of arete. Belay on ledge below daunting orange wall.

4. 25m (23) Crux. Techy, thin and reachy wall with just enough holds. Belay under roof.

5. 35m (21) Monkey out roof and up juggy slab and then short harder wall to major ledge.

6. 45m (22) Move belay 6m right along ledge to 2nd set of anchors. Steep start then traverse 8m right across very juggy face to arete. The holds are massive but slightly nerve wracking and this traverse should be treated as do-not-fall territory given the risks of a pendulum for leader or seconder across the ironstone. Continue up wall and prow to belay on ledge.

To exit - walk off left and into funnel gully (carefully). Scramble up gully and up hill to small cliffline, walk left and around and up to tourist track which takes you back to carpark (10 mins total).

Jorge & Den

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear. Old fashioned 14, may be 17 for sport climbers.

1. 40m (14) Up rad chimney passing four bolts and good cams on both walls (hint, turn around) to bolt belay on the far side of obvious ledge.

2. 20m (14) Bridge up through minor choss passing one or two bolts to funky overhanging corner. Climb through this and belay at bolts atop the Mirrorball pinnacle.

3. 35m (10) Easy right-hand traverse passing the odd bolt and bit of gear to belay on two rings.

4. 15m Up whichever way looks nicest.

Four pitch, bolted (carrots), slightly runout climb with epic views across the valley. Take 10 brackets. You can finish the route with an extra pitch by doing the confusingly named Mirrorball (21) pitch above Lunch Ledge.

Start: On outer left (NW) arete of the Mirrorball Pinnacle. Look for the line of bolts (carrots, take brackets).

1. 25m (19) Up arete to ledge, with DBB.

2. 30m (18) Up arete and face to chossy cave, left along ledge to high DBB.

3. 20m (17) Up face to big ledge.

4. 45m (18) Up face, to Lunch Ledge, moving right at 2nd ring. Pretty exposed.

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired. Don't leave toilet paper or rubbish, you're in a National Park, behave accordingly and don't get on routes like this if you don't know what that means.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap in as described above then walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m to red rope and BBB sign:

★★★ Bunny Bucket Buttress 18 - 20220101_075236.jpg

Now scramble up and right to a ledge 15m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Walk 10m right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the boulder problem start. (If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far).

Print out topos and route description or save them to your phone, as you probably won't have reception down there.

1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. Rope drag possible, but its fine if you sling the first 4 bolts. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Rope drag possible, but it's fine if you sling the first few bolts.

A more funky version of BBB, with a bit more variety, but pumpier and more climbing. If you waste time on belays this will take a long time. Start in big black corner leading to orange wall 20m R of BBB, and 10m left of a huge sloping boulder sticking out of the ground near the track. If you are benighted, go left to the Blue emergency bin on BBB around pitch 6. See notes on BBB.

1. 25m (19) Loose then up reachy corner. There are a few small chain hangers on the first 2 pitches, people have threaded them.

2. 20m (19) start on left and up then airy traverse R to belay ledge. Possible to link P1 & P2.

3. 25m (19) up weird v corner on slab to ledge

4. 40m (18) Boulder start then up and r to corner, move around arête and up to grassy slope, up 8 m wall to belay at top

5. 25m (17) up slope and up arête past bolts to belay on top. (second could wander up to the base of the wall after you've clipped the first ring to give you a better belay -less rope stretch- for the hard move out of the cave).

6. 20m scramble left a move, up corner, then right to belay on tree on right. Can join P5 and P 6 but you'll have drag unless 2nd moves up as above.

7. 15m (18) up wall on right, clip 3rd bolt (above ledge) with screwgate to limit fall

8. 30m (19) up L to corner then huge traverse left under roof and up wall. Awesome position

9. 20m (17) Walk L 5 m (can move belay to here) and up pumpy wall to cave

10. 30m (18) Up wall and head right. Up slab, pass first belay and go to 2nd set of paired rings (you can link P9, 10, 11 into 2 pitch by belaying at first set of rings)

11. 30m (19) Up and right to nose. Step R around nose to undercling and up, later unclip that bolt to reduce drag then left to arete to finish. Follow BBB access to escape

Awesome 'finger-pickin' fun, or 23 M0

Start at pillar beside track before reaching California's buttress.

1. 25m (21)

2. 45m (26 or 23M1)

3. 30m (21)

4. 30m Scramble

5. 30m (20)

6. 30m (20)

7. 30m (21)

8. 30m (18)

Lots of fun and still an adventure, top 3 pitches of Hotel California are fabulous! You want to be solid with exposure! Start first two pitches of CC. First pitch to ledge at 40m but don't stop here, go up through bush then up 5m wall to DDR belay (60m). Second pitch 40m to ledge then traverse right along ledge onto last 10m of 3rd pitch of HC. Follow Hotel California from there.

10 pitch sport route (all rings or homemade stainless hangers, which some odd-ball fat nosed biners struggle with, but take bolt plates for the carrots instead incase, and for the anchor above pitch 3, and in case the belays get too crowded). Rap in as described above, then walk right past pinnacle at 40 m, hit base of cliff at 100m, drop down, then go up to cliff (near start of Big Nose). Walk round the base of buttress and drop down a bit, then go up and you can see a 8m pinnacle/flake leaning against the steep face. This is the start. About 350m walk. There is a much easier variant to the first 3 pitches by starting up Contented Cows, all rings at 17, 8 (12m), and 19.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 5, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.

1. 45m (22) Up and left to ledge, through overhang, further up and left, through roof, then back right to the belay.

2. 30m (20) Straight up the groove until easier climbing, then up and left to belay on ledge.

3. 40m (17) Up and slightly left to ledge, then pull through roof and up. Scramble to base of next short wall, belay off homemade hanger and carrot (TAKE HANGER FOR CARROT!). Old tree anchor seems to have either degraded, or was a poor choice to begin with.

4. 35m (10) Up short wall, then scramble up and left about 30m through vegetation to the base of the cliff corner and anchors (rescue drum here).

5. 30m (17) Up the right wall of corner and arete, then traverse left to the ledge. Carrot + RB Belay.

6. 50m (19) Up onto the wall then traverse right about 20m and up following rings to ledge and belay.

7. 30m (20) Thin move to start, up to roof and jugs, pull through and up to ledge.

8. 25m (18) Up wall, then jug haul through the bulges to the top. Belay anchors are back and right about 6m in a small cave.

9. Scramble up and left to the base of the choss cave, then right around the base about 20m to the start of the last pitch. (You can escape left and up gully from this ledge).

10. 20m (16) Straight up the wall to belay at anchors on top.

To exit, see notes above.

Major orange corner. Once a scary mixed route but heavily rebolted now.

1. 35m (22) Stemming corner

2. 40m (24) Very technical stemming!

3. 30m (24) Airy traverse left across major break and then up face (crux) to finish. The crux move is reachy/sandy and a very hard clip - but can be avoided by continuing traversing left into top pitch of Slackbladder - reducing the overall grade of this pitch to 22.

Brilliant face climbing on all pitches. All U-bolts.

Start as for 50 Year Itch, 120m right of Yesterday's Groove. Best to leave gear at the col, scramble down and rap down Yesterday's Groove raps

1. 30m (18) Lots of huge holds up a right trending line to get you warmed up. Belay on 2nd ledge.

2. 30m (21) Up more fantastic juggy rock to belay on left end of ledge. Move belay 10m right to right end of ledge.

3. 30m (23) Up brilliant technical wall with some airy exposure to small stance - either belay here on double rings or link into next pitch. 16 draws if you want to link the top two pitches.

4. 15m (17) Crazy ironstone features up a short wall to comfy cave belay.

To get off walk up and right to breach the second cliff line and then around and left to get to the col.

One of the most novel routes in the country up an extraordinary natural feature that redefines the term knife blade arete. No amount of hyperbole will prepare you for the first sight of this exposed prow on a remote tower. Imagine 'Flake Crack' but without the main wall and 70m high. You can even hang your arm through holes in the arete in several places! Rock quality is generally pretty poor but it's all about position, position, and position! Protection is good, generally on solid ring bolts and occasionally on fixed slings/rope tied through holes in the arete. Although technically this is a sport route be prepared for large amounts of rope admin - bring jumars, lots of biners and helmets. Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down.

Rap-in

The route is located on the south east arete of the Lost Pillar on Dalpura Head. Locate 2 x ringbolts (no longer carrots) on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate pillar!). It's a 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option). It's recommended you re-belay at one of two DBBs. The first hanging DBB is slightly above the top of the pillar and is used for the tyrolean exit. The second DBB is on a ledge 15m below the top of the pillar with some vegetation, a small swing to the left, recommended for the bounce exit. Pick your re-belay and finish rapping straight down into the gully. Scramble down a few metres to the line of ring bolts traversing left for the first pitch.

Stick clip the first bolt (optionally, belay off the rap rope, or off some slung sandstone) to avoid a bad fall off the ledge on the opening moves.

Climbing

1. 35m (21) The Floating Fin Pitch. Start on right wall of fin, about 5m up the gully. Traverse hard left across the horizontal break (super chossy) past lots of stainless to gain better rock on left side of arete. Up. No, seriously keep going up, taking care not rip a fin off, to belay on ledge at triple bolt belay. Rope drag is a minor issue on this pitch. 30m of rope will make it if the second is near the edge.

2. 18m (22) Sea Cliff Pitch. Go against all logic and traverse out right above the sucking void to gain the knife blade arete again. Up. Yes, the slings are bomber. No, you can't come down. Take care with the top-out onto the belay ledge, there is quite a bit of small loose shale. Double ring belay.

3. 18m (23) Sandy Boulder Pitch. Surprisingly punchy in the bottom half. First bolt is a dangerously high clip, so pull on belay bolts to reach it. Belay on double rings and FH.

Exit options

Scramble to true summit 5m away and locate double rings on west facing block.

The Bounce (recommended)

The simplest but most exciting. Rap 15m between main wall and pillar, then kick with all your might to sail across the void. Grab your rap line and pull onto the ledge. The rope will only be close enough to grab if you re-belayed on the vegetated ledge.

The Welsh Dragon

Rap 30m down to western lower tiers of pillar to a 2 x carrot belay (visible from top, has in-situ gear to facilitate next abseil (!) ), and rap another 30m back to the start gully. From the gully, either jumar back up the fixed ropes, or climb Welsh Dragon (shady) or The Opposition (harder and sun after 1pm).

The Tyrolean

It's also possible to tyrolean off the top of the pillar (avoiding the first 70m of jumaring) by towing the end of the fixed abseil rope behind you up the climb and diagonal ascending up to the re-belay anchors. Look up how to set it up!