Ascensiones de Patience Crack como Onsight

P1 was reasonable, crux moving left below the overhang is a bit spicy but overall there is okay pro. P2 was shocking. The rock is rotten and chossy - it was crumbling in my hands trying to grab the holds and place pro. P3 quite runout for the last 15-20m. Then you face a “P4” of bush bashing. Wouldn’t recommend this climb to friends or enemies!

Nice climb! Surprisingly good gear the whole way, even on the third pitch (if you can find it)

I’d had my eye on this route for a while, and I’m so glad I got to spend it with Yim linking up into Trojan.

Yim set his glasses on the ground and almost immediately stood on them…

“How well can you see without your glasses?” are the words I used. “Can you still lead the scary pitches?” is the question I was asking.

The strapping tape fix held the whole day but made for an interesting look!

Gear

A single rack was sufficient, maybe doubles in 2 and 3 would be useful?

• 00-6 (DMM)
  • Another comment suggested a 5/6 (BD?), I took a 5 (BD) but it went unused the whole day
• Wires

Slimy, and smelled like a sewer after recent rain, not a great time

Nice trad multi, plenty of gear for Tibro standards. We did the 19 direct variant on p1 and built an anchor in the corner crack for p2. For p3 I found a few trees to belay from, they were small but alive and there a few of them for redundancy. The bush bash on to Caves route was not very enjoyable though, would have been great to be able to rap down.

Pitch 1 only (no time to complete other pitches)

We did a different pitch one, the obvious white crack, but right of the actual patience crack start. Dave held it together well, pushing through difficult moves on rock that kept breaking off! I had a little adventure too, linked pitch 2 and 3 and kept going up towards caves. Ran out of placements and then rope...! Kept a cool head, it was easy climbing, but still wanted to kiss the trees when I got to them.

Haha this was incredibly difficult to follow! We sure as didn’t go the right way! run-outs for over 70m with little to no pro. (Obviously because we were off route)

Loved this, bomber pro everywhere. Went direct up the chimney which was a bit tough. Tibro was a bit wet but dried quickly. Would probably not link pitches 2 and 3 again. Big bush bash up to caves route which was cooked.

Very nice trad climb well protected

P1 - Protectable but hard and awkward. Renee did well to climb it super direct in good style. P2/3 - Enjoyable, not often you get so much gear on Tibro. Somewhere in the middle my enjoyable pitches were disrupted by a big brown nope-rope. I chose life and hooked hard left onto Phoenix to bail.

One day I'll get this thing done bottom to top

First pitch was pretty difficult for a 15... Would put it closer to a 17. The slightly overhanging crack really makes it spicy!

Good protection throughout this climb, which is super unusual for trad on tibro! Also, the tree belays on pitch 2 and 3 are gone. I built a trad anchor for pitch 2, and Daniel climbed up and traversed left to the rap rings on Phoenix.

Really good second pitch with plenty of pro. Was very wet in spots, making it a bit more exciting. Lead all pitches.

Linked the second and third pitchs plenty of places to build an anchor but couldn't find the tree mentioned as pitch 3 belay Awesome climb some really cool moves and lot of pro

Led the first pitch up the chimney. Really tested me, actually. Jams, classy laybacks, good gear, view, adventurey ... awesome! Shame that Phoenix's bolts come right up to to 2nd natural belay.

I liked this a lot - been starved lately so placed so much gear - its hard to pass a good slot by, plus Cris' rack is quite extensive and heavy!! Had a FAT time wiggling gear in while Cris shivered at the belay and cursed me all the way up - waving his nut tool! So nice to climb something really well protected at Tibro.

Dan led P1, I led 2 and 3 combined. Excellent climb, gear and exposure. Only just managed to link P2 and 3 with a 50m rope and a little simu-climbing. Some tricky moves in there for a 15.

With Laura. Really nice. Start of first pitch felt like a sandbag.

Methinks we zigged when we should have zagged. Johan led the first pitch, we then agreed the route was right, although the climbing didnt match the guide, and the belay was missing. 48m out until a dodgy belay and bushbash. A repeat (and correct) attempt is planned.

Lead all pitches onsight. Training for multi-pitch guiding. Two clients and half ropes. Decent via multi pitch absiel down caves route.

Did it in 2 pitches

mmm, maybe not the best route to do off the couch

Chris and Paul on Vert Rescue course

Would have been nice if it wasn't the middle of summer Watch out for the heat!! 1st p - Me, 2nd+3rd - Romain

Back again with Peter R this time, again a very nice climb, although I was still daunted by the overhanging crux, Peter made it up eventually, with his knees giving out, unfortunately. 20.8.04 Doing it was a cruise, & being so much more experienced made it a real joy to do. The fact that Alex & I were marooned on the cave on Trojan, seem not to matter all that much.

Led all pitches. Love.

I lead the first (crux) pitch and my climbing partner ran the second and thrid pitches together.