Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Spook Cave B: Useless Pommy Bastard | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ B5: Useless Pommy Bastard
Start with both hands in the rail and feet on the main boulder, climb directly up to top out. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside St. James' Park The Summit | |||||
FB:6C+ | Bush of Blisters Left
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside St. James' Park F: Yellow Card | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ Yellow Card
Start standing on the boffin shaped clock. Traverse left below the rail, drop down onto the edge, continue past the groove along the rail to the corner. Drop down to the lower rail and go around the arete. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside St. James' Park | |||||
FB:6C+ | The Queens Prow
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Darkside Chitty Chitty Bang Bang | |||||
FB:6C+ | Chitty Chitty Bang Bang
On the big roof between Drag Queen and For the Taking PA: Liam Foxcroft, Jun 2019 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Darkside Lost in Translation | |||||
FB:6C+ | The Overthinker
Hidden in the bushes near For The Taking. Climb the awesome short face, starting with the gaston and undercling. PA: Robbie Fraser, 2013 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Darkside The Ludus | |||||
FB:6C - 7A+ | Ludicrous Phallus
Goes straight up from the rail between The Ludus and Ludic Fallacy. The choss between the boulder and the ground is obviously off route. PA: Alan Hills, 2012 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Upper Crust Iron Pig | |||||
FB:6C+ | Iron Pig
| ||||
FB:6C+ | Iron Cross
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Downside 2021 A | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Sweet Joy
PA: Wilkinson | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Alien & Camel B: Parallel Universe | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ B3: Parallel Universe
Sit-start in centre of face with right hand in large slot below boulder and left on positive gaston at face level. climb directly up (avoiding broken ledge above start point) to top out. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Corner Stones C: Fitch Pork | |||||
FB:6C+ - 7A+ | ★★ Hedge Slammer
Sit start on the jug on the right, traverse left across the steep face to jugs, top out. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Corner Stones | |||||
FB:6C+ | Woke Dick
Look at Fitch Pork, this boulder is on your 7-8 o'clock. stand start on awesome bucket under prow, climb out prow and follow slopey arete out right - Niel Mostert | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside The Grandstand I: Monty | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ I5: The Full Monty
Sit-start on jug under the arch, pull round onto edges and finish as for Monty. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Upper Crust | |||||
FB:6C+ | Slot
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Crypto Currency Boulders A: Bitcoin | |||||
FB:6C+ | Bitcoin
SS in the cave on the pocket looking holds with high feet and move towards to corner using slopers on your R and a high L foot jam. PA: Wilkinson | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Stonehurst Boulder I | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Let Sleeping Lizards Lie
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Pecks Valley A: ACDC | |||||
FB:6C+ | DC
Sit start on sloped rail and dyno to the top. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Topside Big Fish Area Biff | |||||
FB:6C+ | That’s What She Said
Crouch start on 2 incut crimps on wall just to left of Evan's crack start. Climb into crack and then out to lip under belly of bulge. Up on slopers. TO PA: James (Jimbo) Smith, Abr 2016 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Trappieskop Blackbeard's Cave | |||||
28 | ★★ Excessive Xses
PA: M. Smigelskis, 2009 | 4 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Trappieskop Adventure Time | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ Me Time
This pumpfest is basically the end of Adventure Time - but starts a few moves underneath. Sit start matched on a big hold, and climb into the big jug at the start of the rail. TO as for adventure time. As Benj says "It's basically over". PA: Zoe Duby, Nov 2017 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Trappieskop The Church | |||||
FB:6C+ | Kids Exchange
left exit of West is Best | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Trappieskop Corner Boulders | |||||
FB:6C - 7A | Black Dynamite
Crimpy line up the arete to the right of Crouching start, hidden jug. "fun, clean line up the arete next to chocolate giddyup crimpy compression" PA: Nicolas Telford, 2013 | ||||
FB:6C+ | Changing Lanes
PA: Duncan O'Regan, 6 En 2015 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Scala Battery Bloc | |||||
FB:6C+ | Slapstick
Sit Start with LH in sidepull and RH in undercling. Slap up to the sloppers and climb through the small bulge. Top out through the jug on the right. PA: Thomas Horn, 2023 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Town The Peninsula Scala Battle Ship Roof | |||||
FB:6C+ | Siren's Call
Sit Start in big pocket. Climb straight through the roof and up the face. Traverse right and TO same as It's Cleaning Day, Master Wayne. The pedestal at the start is out. | ||||
FB:6C+ | Siren's Call Direct
Climb Siren's Call, but TO through the big crack. Scary and Exposed | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands De Doorns Rooi Nagmerrie | |||||
28 | Elm Street | 7 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Du Toit's Kloof Hellfire Wall of Flames | |||||
28 | ★★★ Pyromania
Equip: Malcolm Gowans, 1999 PA: J. Mohle, 2013 | 23m, 8 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Du Toit's Kloof Yellowwood Yellowwood Amphitheatre | |||||
28 | ★★★ Newborn
1
18
2
19
3
25
4
24
5
26
6
27
7
22
8
28
9
24
10
22
11
27
12
25
13
15
GENERAL Newborn is the only sport route at Yellowwood. It was bolted by Sean Maasch in the late 1990's. Jeremy Samson added more bolts in 2007 and opened the route with Jimbo Smith in 2009. At the time of writing (November 2017) the route had seen four known ascents, none onsight. Climbing Newborn requires a big effort and good conditions. The route gets sun from about 11h30, although pitches capped by the big roofs above the halfway ledge are shady for longer. It can bake in summer once the sun hits. Rock quality is generally excellent. The route does not see much traffic, so expect the occasional hollow flake or precariously balanced boulder. Cracks get overgrown in winter. All stances have bolted belays. Most pitches finish on comfortable ledges. Bolts are spaced on easy ground, but close when the climbing gets harder. The first and last pitches can be combined to save time. No pitch is longer than 35m, most are much shorter. GEAR A 60m sport rope and 18 draws are needed to climb and descend Newborn. Half ropes work well for parties of three. It allows for hauling a bag and makes it easier to get down (see below). The route starts approximately 20m right of Show Time. Two large, white boulders mark the spot.
DESCENT Getting back to the ground require multiple abseils. There are three viable options:
PA: Jeremy Samson & Jimbo Smith, 2009 | 13, 18 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Houdenbek The Incredible Health Area Trolling Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Trolling | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Karbonaaitjies Kraal Main Amphitheatre | |||||
28 | Bransby & Samson route
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Keur Kloof The Lineup | |||||
28 | ★★★ Tourmaline
Long sustained crux. Consensus grading needed, could be harder. Backstory - was listed as an open project in guidebooks since 2015, but it was just an idea for a cool route. Bolted in May 2023. PA: Richard Halsey | 8 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Riverside Crags The Alley | |||||
28 | ★★ Zelenskiy Green
Linkup: Start up Baseball Brat and finish on Taxi Ride / The Baseball Bat Treatment. PA: Steven Bradshaw, 24 Abr 2022 | 7 | |||
28 | ★★★ The Baseball Bat Treatment
PA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 6 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Waterworld | |||||
28 | ★ Twist and Crawl
Equip: Stuart Brown PA: C van Zyl, 2009 | 12 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Supertubes | |||||
28 | ★★ Bad Poopie
Start on 'Rad and Bad', on to 'Point Break', then left past a new bolt to join at the crux of 'Whoa She Poopie'. Thanks to Willem le Roux for placing the bolt and Ruan for the name ;-) PA: phlip olivier, 2023 | 10 | |||
28/29 | ★★ Bad Break
Start on 'Rad and Bad' then end on 'Point Break'. Makes for a much more mellow route, enjoying the 'Point Break' crux without the deep pump. | 10 | |||
28 | ★★ Rad and Bad
PA: M. Roberts, 1991 | 6 | |||
28 | ★ J-Bay
PA: D. Wiemar, 1997 | 6 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof The Palace | |||||
28 | ★★ Burning Chrome
PA: R. Nattrass, 1995 | 14 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Uriah Heep | |||||
28 | ★★★ Deamons and Wizards
PA: Guy Holwill, 1994 | 5 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Worlds Apart | |||||
28 | ★★ Total Reset
Extension of Delete Button Equip: R. Suter PA: Andrea Biffi, 2018 | 9 | |||
28 | ★★★ Daze of Thunder
PA: Guy Holwill, 1991 Mant: Mountain Club of South Africa, 13 Abr 2018 | 9 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Jurassic Park | |||||
28 | ★★ Against the Grain
PA: J Samson, 1995 | 7 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Berlin Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Hot Toddy Bension
PA: Guy Holwill, 1997 | 7 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Bad Kloof Rehab Crag | |||||
28 | Flex Apeal
Traverse in from 'Neurogenesis' (un-clipping 'Neurogenesis' quickdraws as you go to prevent rope drag). | 7 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu The Farm Whisper Wall | |||||
28 | Whisper
Equip: Hermie Venter, 2024 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Guano Caves Batt Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Batman
PA: J. Peery & Jan Fischer, Feb 2016 | 10 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Montagu Guano Caves Rock 'n Roll Kloof | |||||
28 | Digital Bath
Link up from Awake to Last Ride of the Day. Extra bolt indicates where to move left. Consensus grading needed. PA: Richard Halsey, Nov 2023 | 10 | |||
28 | ★★ Awake
Does not use left crack. Consensus grading needed. Equip: Richard Halsey, 2023 PA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 10 | |||
28 | ★★★ Wherever I May Roam
Equip: Richard Halsey, 2023 PA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 9 | |||
28 | Devil's Dance
Equip: Richard Halsey, 2023 PA: Richard Halsey, 2023 | 10 | |||
28 | All Within My Hands
PA: J. Temple-Forbes, Mar 2024 | 12 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Paarl Rock Boulder Field D: Myotonia | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Myotonia
Start in the middle of the face and climb straight up. Good holds to the left are off. PA: Charles Hopkins, 2009 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Paarl Rock Boulder Field I: Holy Bouncing Boilerplates Batman! | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Holy Purple Cannibals Batman!
Start directly below roundish white patch of lichen near the top of face and climb straight up. CAUTION: There is no easy way off this boulder! PA: Neil Mostert, 2008 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Paarl Rock Boulder Field P: Hot Rod | |||||
FB:6C+ | Geek
Crouch-start to the left of Dork with sidepull for lefthand and undercling for right, traverse right along crack and join Dork. PA: Charles Hopkins, 2010 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Paarl Rock Boulder Field U: Good Things Happen When Bad People Go Bouldering | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Good Things Happen When Bad People Go Bouldering
Start on obvious edges and climb the very high boulder to top-out. Your chances of surviving a down climb are slim, a rope is probably a good idea... PA: Charles Hopkins, 2009 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Paarl Rock Boulder Field Self Trepanation | |||||
FB:6C+ | Self Trepanation
Start with shelf and climb straight up. PA: Andy Wood, 2010 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Euro Wall | |||||
28 | Hard Euro Candy
Starts left of Eurotech, follow pockets, crimps and mono's to chains. *NOTE: Sections of the route was manufactured by unknown persons some decades ago from what we were able to figure out. Leave it (and a rant/debate re manufactured lines) alone, it was a different time, it was done well and it forces some brilliant, creative climbing. It's part of the history of climbing at Paarl. PA: Neil Mostert, Sep 2014 | 7 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Little Dutch Boy Wall Left | |||||
28 | ★★★ Catharsis
1
28
30m
2
Project
20m
PA: Joe Möhle, 2008 | 50m, 2 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Parklife Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Parklife
An awesome line that is probably a bit harder these days due to holds breaking off. PA: Jeremy Samson, 1998 | 45m, 23 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Blue Diamonds Sector | |||||
28 | ★★★ Blue Diamonds and White Ice
Possibly one of the best at Paarl and possibly the first of its grade in South Africa. Gear: Small cams, rack of nuts and extra small to medium nuts. PA: Andy de Klerk, 1986 | 3 | |||
South Africa Western Cape Cape Winelands Paarl Rock Splinter Area | |||||
28 | The Evidence of Things Not Seen
A chipped route that was ironically chipped by Guy Holwill. PA: Andy de Klerk, 1988 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Krakadouw | |||||
28 | Pump of the Century
One of the finest lines in the country. The roof and crack immediately right of GOT, joining that route's belay ledge. The name and date are provisional, since the route has only been top-roped. PA: A. de Klerk, 1988 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Alcatraz Deep & Dirty | |||||
FB:6C+ | Deep & Dirty
Crouch-start with large jug under roof, move left and climb up. PA: Flo Wienjes & Martin Kälble, 2019 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Tea Garden E: All Day Shade | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Keep it Brasa
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Brasa barefoot
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Ousado
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Ousadia
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Iperocks
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Jdsxggh
Obvious line, Sit down start from the shelf/jug hold, goes all the way to the right and tops up on the good holds corner/nose. PA: 24 Mayo | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Tea Garden F: Recollections of an Injured Man | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Recollections of an Injured Man
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Tea Garden Sugar Cube | |||||
FB:6C+ | Orange Streak Eliminate
Sit start in the bottom of the crack. Move up the crack to the roof then follow the curving slopes onto the orange face and climb the crimps. Avoid jugs on the right. PA: Thom Arnold, 2023 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Flipside DNA Strings | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | DNA Strings
Sit-start with unique hold and climb up using underclings. PA: Scott Noy, 2012 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside B: Dragonfly Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★★ Nymph
| ||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★★ Creekside Throw
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside S: Photographic Orgy | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Photographic Orgy
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside V: Riverside Arch | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Antigravity
Start with jug and sloper, campus up and climb the groove. PA: Scott Noy, 2005 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside Y: Wailing Wall | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★ Juste Avant de Partir
Sit-start to the right of the arête and climb up. PA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside Push Up Bra | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Push Up Bra
Sit start, move right, mantle and exit left. PA: Scott Noy, 2018 | ||||
{FB} 6C+ | Can't Chew Bru
Sit start and climb out right. PA: Kaddi Lehmann, 2018 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Riverside Bull in a China Shop | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Bull in a China Shop
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Champside I: Viva la Raza | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Viva la Raza
Sit-start, climb through the bulge and finish up on crimps. PA: Mark Millar, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Champside L: Easyhasi | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Lisa
Sit-start with good hold, throw for the lip and finish up the slab. PA: Nic Sellers & Cory Dawn, 1997 | ||||
{FB} 6C - 7A | Bonghead
| ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Champside P: U-Turn | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | U-Turn
From the jug on the arete traverse out left. PA: Ben Carver, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Champside Team Boulder | |||||
FB:6C+ | Team Boulder
Sit-start low with flake/edge and climb up. PA: Scott Noy, 2014 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground B: John Denver | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Lung Compliance
Start with the crack and traverse left through the roof. PA: Scott Noy, 2003 | ||||
{FB} 6C+ | John Denver Wimp
Left at the top | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground G: Give Me a Break | |||||
{FB} 6C+ - 7B | Not Not Ninot
Sit-start with low crimp and climb up left. PA: Ivan Luengo, 2006 | ||||
{FB} 6C+ | Alone Time
Not Not Ninot into Bouldering for Beginners. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground I: Poser Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | First Impressions
Start as Different Culture and climb into Deep Water Soloing | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground L: Simple Simon | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Quite Hectic
Start with good sidepull and climb the high face finishing right PA: Vincent DeLuca, 2007 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground V: Cossack Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Dr. Tao's Vegetarian Biltong
Start with small rail and climb up the face. "Love the name" PA: Danie Moolman, 2003 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Campground Dussy Manquant | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | The Function of the Female Orgasm
Sit-start below small arete with sidepull / pinches and climb up. PA: Scott Noy, 2005 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Upper Campground B: Muay Thai | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★★ Muay Thai
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Start with large undercling, climb up left through the roof and finish up right. Sit- starting with the low rail probably adds a grade. | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Upper Campground E: The Potato Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | Stump Hole Cavern
Start to the right of The Potato Problem, move up to large sloper then dyno up and PA: Guy Hubbard, 2004 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Upper Campground J: Rasta Roof | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★ Onyourear
Start with left hand on arête and climb up right. PA: Paul Brouard, 2002 | ||||
South Africa Western Cape West Coast Cederberg Rocklands Lower Pakhuis Tripod Tripod | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Tripod
Start on pedestal and climb the overhanging prow. PA: Joe Möhle, 2021 |