Vías en Africa para grado seleccionado

A Yosemite type crack on the corner of the Gendarme just before the amphitheatre comes into view. Start next to a boulder 10m right of exodus. Climb the hand-crack 1.5m left of the corner to the overhang. Pull through and climb the finger-crack to the rappel anchor.

Takes the crack to the left of Lang Arm. The start is tricky and although there is good gear there is potential for a ground fall. At the top move right to use Lang Arm anchors.

Climb through the roof (crux) and up the crack on the left hand side of the amphitheatre.

Starts on the right side of that arete at a rail. Climb up left to the protruding, featured rock, then onto the slab above. Step back right into an open book of red/orange rock, gain the overhang above and follow the feature right to the top.

Climbs the wall downstream of 'Sunday Driver'. The key feature is a shallow upward-pointing triangular recess. Start a couple of meters left of 'Sunday Driver' initial crack.

1. [23] 18m Gain a rail at 3m after a tricky start. Traverse left to a flake/block feature and move slightly left up this. Climb diagonally right past a bolt and into the triangular recess. Move up to just below the apex of the recess and rail left across the face to the base of a short hand crack on the right side of a block. Climb the crack to a ledge.

This is one of the best routes at Monteseel. It starts one metre right of the Freewheelin’ corner. A boulder problem start leads straight up to the rail. Move slightly right then and up to two pegs. Climb up and slightly left from the pegs to reach a small rail. Continue directly up the face above.

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

Climb the crack 1m to the right of 'Gunsight'.

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack 1m to the right of 'Gunsight' to below the overhang level with the top of the prominent prow (where 'Gunsight' steps left). Move slightly left and climb the steep crack above easily to a point where you can traverse right to a ledge and belay.

2. 12m 23 Above is an overhanging face with a short bottomless "friend" crack 3m up. Use the face up and slightly right of the "friend" crack, and then move up on small holds directly above the "friend" crack, and climb to a ledge and tree belay.

Start: about 10m right of Railrunner, below a corner capped by a roof.

1. Move up in the corner, then traverse left to gain a small ledge 3m above the ground. Step down to the left to reach a good handrail and traverse left to stand under a small overhang.

2. Climb some cracks on the left to a small roof and continue past this to a rail. Rail right, then climb diagonally right to a hanging belay at a sloping ramp below the big roof.

3. Break through the overhang on the right to gain the ledge. Move left and up to a higher ledge.

4. Climb the last pitch of Railrunner.

Takes the smooth wall right of Tiny’s Toddle. Start at the right hand edge of the ledge and climb directly up past a peg and a bolt to exit slightly right. Friends ½ to 1½ are useful.

1. [23] 25m

2. [21] 25m

3. [22] 30m

Arr me mateys, a fine voyage up the vertical Cederberg seas.

Avail yourself of the first pitches of Boomerang to gain the ledge over the huge roof. Start ~6m left of Boomerang pitch 3.

1. 17m (18) Step off a block to reach a high rail and past a small left-facing corner, with bush, to a ledge. At the overlap above, high step onto the face on the left to reach a good layback. Continue straight up the face and at the wide horizontal break move right to stance on the gangplank, just below the peg from Boomerang.

2. 15m (23) Step off the left side of the gangplank, leaving any Landlubber tendencies behind, and rail left over the deep. Use underclings to gain the bottomless corner and fight to establish over the void, no quarter given. Straight up to stance in the large boulders on the ledge. Suggest tapping left pinkie finger.

3. 30m (18) From the stance, move right to easily pull up onto the face. Follow the left facing features to a wide rail and move right to a narrow ledge (the large layback crack on Boomerang is just to the right). Head up and left for a few meters, then straight up to weigh anchor on the ledge.

4. 40 m (21) Reach the good, high hold (aye, you can use the cairn if you be short), then follow good flat holds until the angle eases. Cross Boomerang Direct and pull onto the right side of the bulge on the grey rock. Get some micro nuts in the thin seem and crank up to good rails. Pull up and right over the overlap into a vague recess, followed by a mantelshelf onto a smooth, narrow ledge. Head diagonally up and right past the overhang on its right side, then head back slightly left to the top and fly the Jolly Rodger

Plumb line between the second pitch of 'Beware the Dark Horse' & 'Blueberry Hill'.

Start between 'Beware the Dark Horse' and 'Blueberry Hill'. Climb up to a triangular undercling on the first overlap 3m up. From the ledge, gain the blank looking face directly above and stay left of the crumbly flakes, going onto good jugs – you run it out a bit at this point (there are some micro nut placements if you have time to fiddle with gear) - the hard pull onto the face is right above good gear though, and the jugs higher up are bomber. Hold the line straight through the undercut crack system (crux) that is capped by a small triangular roof; and then onto the belay ledge – there is a threaded abseil point from which to belay.

A clean hard pitch, similar to SCHWEESICLES. The line followed is a crack on the opposite side of the kloof and 5m upstream from STRAIGHT EDGE.

1. 40m 22 From stream bed gain a large handhold on the left. Pull up into the recess, pass a dying tree to the right and continue up the crack right up to the large ledge.

10m upstream of the 'Diagonal Street' wall there is an overhanging buttress split by twin cracks.

1. [23] 25m Start off a detached block, rail slightly left to the arete before climbing the obvious open book to a bus-stop ledge on the right. Continue up the twin cracks to the top.

Takes a direct line up the centre of the wall right of the gully. Start between the large crack to the right and the layback crack to the left. Climb up to a bolt, and then straight up past several rails to a peg. Climb directly up and through the top bulge to exit. Fortunately a chain anchor has recently been placed at the top of this line so climbers no longer have the almost impossible, sloping and grass covered exit. However, one needs to rap down to get to the anchors to thread. Not as much of a mission as it sounds, and well worth it. Without a doubt one of the best routes in Kloof Gorge.

• retro-bolted Feb 2010 by Gerald Camp with permission of the FA preserving some “flavour”.

• The large crack to right has either not been climbed or is unrecorded… Not too sure of exactly where the “layback crack to the left” is?

Start from the stance at the end of THE JOURNEY.

1. 23 Break through the right hand edge of the roof. Climb to the chains above.

Climbs the steep rock on the right of the dry waterfall (i.e. Left of AUTHUR SCARGILL'S HAIRPEICE).

1. 18m 22 Climb straight up to a peg and a bolt. Move up and right from the bolt and traverse left above bolt into the recess. Follow the recess to the top. Abseil off tree for descent.

Start 2m around to the right of the arete next to Chicane. Climb the crack

The climb takes the prominent crackline on the left-hand side of the dusty amphitheatre.

1. Climb the slab to the right of the crack moving into it as soon as possible. Climb this until it gets off-width, move right to a short crack and climb up this and then back left into the main crack. Climb to a ledge below an overhang, which undercuts the obvious crack one can see from the ground.

2. Pull through the roof and do a layback move to gain a rail, rail right with your feet on the lip of the overhang, to a vertical crack and climb this to where it begins to steepen. Make a belay just to the right. (Beware the cammed block at the end of the rail).

3. Continue up the crack to the top.

Descent: walk left to the min descent gully. It is not advisable to come down the first gully.

This line straddles the black/orange divide, going directly up. A red X4 cam may be useful.

Fernkloof forms a short narrow gorge just before it opens out to the north. Halfway down the steep left hand wall of this gorge is an upstream facing dihedral.

1. 20m 23 Climb the dihedral, move right, and continue up a groove to the top.

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

RAP DOWN THIS ROUTE!!!

The superficially blank wall above 'Soul Commotion' The route has lower-off's.

Start from a boulder by two vertical white stripes. Straight up to the roof. Pull through and follow the thin vertical crack. When this peters out tend slightly right up the face.

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

1. 45m 18. Start just to the right of the drip and climb up to the vegetated recess on lichen covered rock. Step right on to clean grey rock and head straight up to the orange overhang. Approach it from the right and exit it on the left. Stance on the jumbo ledge near the edge so you can see the climber leading the next pitch.

2. 50m 19. Climb straight up the grey face using one of various options; either a little left closer to the arete, or straight up the crack or a bit further right heading for the yellow rock. Attain the “dassie ledge”. Crank through the overhang protected by a 1.5 inch cam to attain jugs and continue to the long ledge above. Walk about 4 metres left along the ledge and look for a thread point on the face. Crank up just to the right of this and climb the left leaning line on brilliant yellow-orange quartzite. Continue to a comfy ledge (just below the Play Time stance.)

3. 35m 22. Move up 2m to the recess above and then traverse left a few metres on white rock. (Play Time exits out right from this recess.) Climb up and right to a ledge. Crank up and then continue up to the left slanting crack system to easy ground to a short, flared chimney. Climb this to a rail and move left. Continue past a perch and head right on orange rock to the overhang. Place a 3 inch cam or two and crank through the gnarly grey fins on hand jambs and lay backs and stance on the left. Be careful not to use up your hand jamb slot with a cam! If you do not know how to jamb you gonna have to be very tall or very strong. Keep a medium or large sized cam handy as a directional for your second after the crux.

4. 25m 15. Climb back out right to avoid the chossy stuff and continue on the grey rib to a stance in the gulley.

5. 40m 22. Climb the easy grey rib to where it steepens at a shallow right facing corner. Climb straight up if you are quite tall or use small holds on the face on the right to step up and then move back into the corner. Continue to the obvious lay-back flake and on to a rail. Move a metre or so right and then climb the grey face to stance at the top anchors of the Timerity Abseil.

1. [23] 20m

2. [21] 20m

3. [21] 25m

Another route starting off the ledge above the huge roof right of the Frontal. Start at the right-hand end of the ledge (as for Boombox).

1. 30 m (17) Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.

2. 15 m (22) About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break, through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.

3. 35 m (19) Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.

4. 35 m (20) Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.

Start 5m left of Juggernaut P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux.

Between JELLYBEANS and SCHWEESICLES on the same side of the kloof. Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 25m 22 Up crack until handrail is reached. Right along rail to arete. Step up and continue up corner until next rail. Back left to finger crack. Up crack to top.

Starts 10m left (upstream) of 'Diagonal Street'. Scramble up 10m as for 'Diagonal Street', then move left and scramble up onto some blocks below a steep wall with a crack system splitting it.

1. [22] 20m Climb the crack to the top. Belay and abseil off the tree on the ledge.

Scramble up on to a ledge. Boulder up through a small overhang and sloper ledge, then follow the line slightly leftwards to where the angle eases and the rock stops. Then scramble up right for about 5 meters where you will find a mini hourglass rap-off. Use dbl ropes to reduce ropedrag and it is 45m to the ground!

Tricky start (key #1DMM wire in horizontal ~3m up), then pumpy climbing to the top. Scramble off to the left to descend.

Takes the arête right of “Little R”.  Follow the bolts, generally staying right of the arête.

• These bolts are probably suspect by now!

Start as for LOST TRIBE (about 10m right of the central break).

1. 40m 23 Follow LOST TRIBE for a few metres until it veers off left. Continue up the layback crack until it ends. Traverse right and up to gain a recess leading to easy ground which is followed to a ledge.

2. 40m 20 Climb up leftwards and pull through the roof at a crack. Continue left and up to gain LOST TRIBE's long hand crack/recess. Climb the crack and exit left to belay on a long narrow ledge (LOST TRIBE moves right slightly lower down).

Where to now? Either rap off, traverse right and scramble as for LOST TRIBE, or traverse left for about 25m and climb LOOK SHARP 's flake. Alternatively, the brave may traverse further left to gain an interesting recess which leads to slabs, ledges, corridors and pillars.

Notes:

1. The first ascentionists took the last option described above to top out. Only the VERY brave should try it.

Climbs the front of the pinnacle climbed by NOTHING SUCKS LIKE ELECTROLUX. Start on a ledge in front of the pinnacle (stream side) to the left of that route.

1. 25m 22 Climb up the front of the pinnacle to a ledge below the left hand side of a steep wall. Climb straight up the left hand edge of the wall (poor gear, crux RP1 preplaced) and up the arête to a cubby hole with a tree. Move right and climb the steep face to an easy crack which is followed to the top.

See details: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108135069/hyenas-secret

Further along a rightwards leaning layback crack is reached. Climb up to a rappel peg.

A Classic

"A totally anthropoid experience!" D. Cheesmond in his 50 Selected Routes.

Orang-Outang starts more or less in the middle of the amphitheatre in a right facing open-book. The Grooves starts about 6m right and follows a groove/crack line leading three quarters of the way up the wall.

1. Climb the right-hand crack, walk 2m left at a ledge to another crack. Follow this to a ledge.

2. Traverse left, then back right to a stance above the start of the pitch in a small cave with grass.

3. The Boat Pitch: Go back left to an orange covered slab. Climb this into a groove and up to a jug. Go right and up the crack to a stance.

4. Continue straight up to a large ledge.

5. Scramble up easy rock to the giant ledge.

6. Climb the juggy wall to a cave/dassie ledge belay.

7. The Gorilla Pitch: Climb diagonally left towards a vague recess, heading for the left of a vague pinnacle. Move right to a stance.

8. Climb the crack to the top.

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of 'Coming of Pride', with the big German-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on 'Little Bitch'.

Start right of Happiness and Light. Climb up to a small overhang. Turn this on its right-hand side and climb up, past the bolt, to the top.

Note: protection isn't easily available above the bolt so it might be wise to abseil down first.

The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank. Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly runout climbing.

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

This route is just right of Yellowwood Crack and the outstanding feature is the large overhang on the 5th pitch. The overhang is climbed with nothing less that perfect hand jambs and is well protected with cams.

1. 20 45m. Start at the small cairn and scramble 5 metres to the overlap. Step up onto the cantilevered block and place a bomber green alien. Balance up to the rail and move left to climb up the face. Continue up the more or less obvious line to stance with Extra Time.

2. 20 45m Climb up over dodgy flakes to a rail. Step left and climb up easily for a few meters. Place a good cam or two and do a crank up to a sloping hold and move left and up to the overhang. Climb diagonally up to the right to below another overhang. Rail under this on dodgy shattered rock to exit on the left. (Extra Time exits it on the right.) Climb the reachy dihedral to a stance.

3. 20m 15 Walk left and climb the easy right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left past the starts of Fine Time and Extra Time 3rd pitches and then continue left to a stance in a cave by crouching along a narrow ledge.

4. 30m 21 Climb up the left slanting chimney crack (good pro) until you are able to swing round onto the face. Climb bold moves up and right to the arete. There is a spike of rock which you can place a sling for pro. Climb easily up the face to a decent ledge and stance.

5. 25m 23 Climb easily up to the overhang and place some good cams. (Bear in mind that your second will curse you if you place them too deep!) Turn the overhang on perfect hand jambs. Place a small cam on the right to keep the ropes from jambing in the crack at the lip. Continue up the corner to a large sloping stance.

6. 25m 19 Step left and climb an impeccable recess to the "walk-off" ledge.

7. 30m 21

Climb up onto the blocks on the right and with an awkward start climb the cracks to a ledge. Place a large cam and turn the overhang with a reach crank. Continue easily to the large ledge system.

1. 45m 16 Climb the grey weather rib just to the right of the gully until one can step across to the left wall. Continue on easy weathered grips to the top.

Gear. Standard rack. No RP's needed. For convenience double up on 1/4, 1/2, 1, 1.5 inch cams.

Descent. Head left to the Timerity abseil.

1. [23] 30m

2. [21] 30m

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51. Start about 3m right of Pride Breaker and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge. Concensus grading needed - probably easier if you are tall.

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 25m 22 Climb straight up the open book forming the left hadn side of the recess and through the roof to the ledge with a tree.

1. 10m 23 Above the 'Diagonal Street' wall is a short bolted face, climb up the centre.

Sustained and pumpy . Up steep grey rock to a shelf. Up and right to the blunt arete. Follow this, mainly on right side until angle eases. Tat point to the right (shared with 'Gortex')

Start just right of C’est La Bon and climb diagonally right to a peg above the roof. Continue right to the peg on Dynamatic and finish up the wall above.

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m.

1. Climb crack and climb past bolt and good RP 4 to block. Climb wall above to large ledge.

Notes:

1. The bolt is probably dubious by now. It was placed by Mr Cockburn after all.

This climb starts on the lower buttress below BAKED BEEN. It ascends a steep face 5m downstream of CROOKED CRACK and 1m downstream of a prominent open book with a tree growing close to it.

1. 25m 22 Climb up the face starting on the left-hand side and moving right into the centre of the face when a good rail is reached. From the rail continue upwards and slightly rightwards (crux) to easier ground. Climb up to a good ledge. Climb a small overhanging crack above the ledge and to the left. Scramble up easier rock to a large ledge and tree belay.

Note: Top rope inspection undertaken. Initially led with a rest at the rail, but later led in good style.

The obvious corner left of the orange overhangs. About 150m left of the start of the frontal route.

1. Ascend the corner. Belay next to a detached boulder

2. Climb up next to the boulder. Belay on top of the boulder.

3. Start up and right. Climb yellow rock to a rail. Rail left, pull up onto arete (undercut). Move diagonally right across face to grass ledge on right.

4. Pull through roof on left, climb wall above to ledge. Traverse left and rappel off the Gendarme.

The route is situated on the overhanging face immediately right of the lower swimming pool above the last waterfall. i.e. about 10m upstream of 'Castle Gorge Corner' and starts at a recess with a small tree growing in it about 15m up. It follows a line through the two lower overhangs to the top. The route was pre-practiced on top rope.

1. 40m 23 Start at the base of the recess and climb up to the tree and then diagonally left to the roof (last resting place). Climb through the roof using the flake immediately above, and move immediately right to a mantelshelf move (crux). Climb up to the roof above and through on thin holds. Climb up to the final roof and traverse left to easier rock directly below the roof.

Note: The crux move can be protected by a Hex no 11 about a meter below the bottom roof in the recess and a Hex no 6 directly under the roof at the resting point mentioned. These protections are both bomb-proof and protect the leader from cratering from the crux. A friend no 2.5 can also be placed above the roof immediately below the crux (with difficulty). No runner should be placed behind the flake, as this would not reduce the fall factor markedly, and break the flake. The rest of the route can be protected easily.

1. Climb the corner until able to pull up onto a ledge on the right. Stance here beneath the roof.

2. Climb the short crack to gain the wide rail beneath the roof. Rail right to twin seams running up the wall. layback up the seams to a ledge.

3. Pull up onto a small ledge on the left using a pocket. step up and right, continuing diagonally right until able to go straight up to the summit.

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at 'The Restaurant'.

• 50m: 17/18 for 5m, then 15 for 45m
• 30m: roof with loosish rock (not recommended, rather avoid by climbing further to the right)
• 22m: skirt the first little roof on it's right, then fairly straight up to large ledge.
• 20m: layback pinch flake
• 25m: white face *
• 20m: first corner from boulder (19), then step up to gain 2nd face (22)
• 55m: committing moves on smears

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

Climb the first pitch of No More Bells up to the big ledge. From here the route follows an independent line close to the right edge of the buttress climbed by No More Bells. The route starts about 6m to the left of the massive gulley dividing the two faces of the Castle, and 8m below and just right of two square, stepped roofs. Belay in front of a two meter wide detached flake.

1. 36m, 19. Starting at the cairn, climb the crack leading up to right-hand edge of the two stepped roofs. Break through leftwards (strenuous) using an undercling hold on the right-facing corner in the overhangs and up through the roofs. Continue up the crack, at one point choosing either a left or a right crack up to a semi-hanging stance on a few gargoyles. Stance at the right side of the buttress close to the edge of the gulley just left of a small roof below the middle crack going through the overhanging rock.

2. 20m, 19. The overhanging crack awaits an ascent. Climb the crack left of the overhanging crack using holds on left, then up and rightwards with some strenuous moves towards the continuation of the right-hand crack (it is possible to step right earlier to an obvious undercling hold, and continue up the crack from there). Continue climbing this through overhanging rock up into easier terrain trending right. Stance on a series of small ledges on the arête.

3. 20m, 20. Climb the easy cracks facing into the gulley up to the left end of a long narrow roof, where you can break through using jams and/or laybacks (the No More Bells crux on pitch 4 is just around the corner to the left). Continue climbing for a few metres and stance (semi-hanging) 5m higher up close to the arête and about 4m below the next roof.

4. 50m, 22. Climb up leftwards around the roof (airy move). Proceed up the crack via a series of rails, which includes a harder move. When the crack closes out, delicately step out right a few metres across a slabby face to a small left-facing corner. Pull up on thin holds (crux; and gear a little sparse). From here the grade eases and it is possible to scramble up to the finishing ledge (where No More Bells ends) just below the summit overhang.

Starts with several slab pitches to gain the higher crack system that leads to the summit. This route gave some nice climbing on varied terrain. Climbed ground up, bolted belays with mixed climbing. The rap line at the bottom is different to the starting pitches as they move diagonally, the rap line would make 3 great pitches of slab.

1. [23] 12m

   ???

2. [15] 30m

   ???

3. [22] 35m

   ???

Surprisingly good, and tricksy. Climbs the wall and arête to the right of And the Living is Easy. Follow the rib to the wide rail, Hard moves onto the face above lead to rails. Continue up the arête (flakes on the face to the left are loose). Small cams are useful higher up.

A few small nuts (micros) are useful as protection.

Climbs the face and overhanging headwall to the right of 'Reggae Music' . Starts off the lizard ledge.

1. [23] 10m

   Climb the middle of the face avoiding all contact with either arete, to the blocky ledge.

2. [23] 15m

   Climb the overhanging face above to ledge and tree belay.

Direct start to Dramatix

Start on the ledge at the base of Remedial Interruption.  Climb straight up the face and up the thin seam past a peg.  Avoid moving left onto Terminal Frost.

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m and belay on the right end of the ledge.

1. Climb past bolt to a good RP 4. Climb the wall and corner to large ledge.

Notes:

1. The bolt is probably dubious by now.

1. 15m 22 Start 3m left of BLINDFAITH on the good looking wall at the kloof entrance, by a tall thin tree. Climb 3m and place small nuts above and to the right of a solid, but loose looking block (RP's). Move left onto small holds and then up (crux) to a block 5m higher up. As a ground fall is possible (even before one reaches the block), reach back and place a sling in the tree. Climb to the top. Note:

2. Gear is not plentiful.

Start: 20m to the left of Cape Pushover, aiming for the obvious corner below the overhangs.

1. Climb the face and corner. Then traverse left along the lower (less obvious) rail until clear of the overhangs. A delicate move establishes you on the face. Tend to the right on another 8m of face climbing brings you to a stance.

2. Avoid the bushes by climbing the slabby blunt arête consisting of large boulders. Then a short steep corner below a V-notch (crux) brings you to the Smiley rap and a few meters of scrambling further, to the cave. Have a T, then rappel down. Or do one of the cave pitches.