★★ Greasy Access 22

Start: 20m to the left of Cape Pushover, aiming for the obvious corner below the overhangs.

1. Climb the face and corner. Then traverse left along the lower (less obvious) rail until clear of the overhangs. A delicate move establishes you on the face. Tend to the right on another 8m of face climbing brings you to a stance.

2. Avoid the bushes by climbing the slabby blunt arête consisting of large boulders. Then a short steep corner below a V-notch (crux) brings you to the Smiley rap and a few meters of scrambling further, to the cave. Have a T, then rappel down. Or do one of the cave pitches.