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Nodos en Hell's Canyon

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Nodo
Hell's Canyon

The Hell's Canyon is one of the most beloved place of Armenian rock climbers for sport and trad climbing. It՛s located around 80km from Yerevan, on the way to Yerevan-Goris. If you are traveling by public transport (recommended Yerevan-Yeghegnadzor bus) or hitch hiking then you want to stop the bus after the blue plate "Landzhar" - on the first water spring (right side of the road) or the second water spring (left side of the road). Take a drinking water from one of the road springs, cause in the canyon you cannot find a drinking water, however the water from the small stream is ok for washing. The canyon is located about 2 km aside of the mine road, see on the map below.

East
East
6a Wish Up

A fun route with varied climbing. Start in a crack and work your way up the face traversing to the right (crux) round the corner and finish up the easier slab.

5c Redemtion

This climbs the rib ditectly below the "not a church" religious site.

5b Cheghk

A long route that climbs to the left of an obvious crack.

5b Salamadra

Another long easy route. Make sure you're solid at the grade as there are significant runs in-between the bolts.

6c+ Nzhdeh

When it comes to movement this is one of the bets pitches at the crag! Sadly it has been the site of much controversy regarding it's bolting. What was originally a perfectly safe route has been dumbed down by retro-bolting from a few weak-minded individuals...If you want to climb the route in it's formal glory, only clip the original bolts (it's very easy to distinguish due to the new bolts being very shiny)

anyways...climb up the easy slab to where the wall turns to vertical. Make some big moves on good incut edges until you can clip the anchors from a stance under the big flake. Clipping the anchor may be harder if you're short.

6c+ Hell's Diamond

A wonderful, long route that has managed to avoid the wrath of retro-bolting... Climb up the easy slab to face climbing and a dihedral with technical and thought provoking moves.

8a/a+ մելանխոլիա (Melancholia)

With engaging climbing the whole way up this is one of the best routes in Armenia so far! The beginning can use a bit of cleaning up but it's all there.

Start with an easy slab to a small boulder problem through a roof. A few bolts of tech face climbing brings you to good rest before the final headwall. Bust out a hard boulder problem with either long moves or use some small intermediates and try not to fall off until you clip the anchors!

7a Sea of Dream

A massive route that climbs the entire cliffs face. Climb up the vertical face encountering a mini crux on sloping edges. climb a few easier bolts to a ledge which you could bivi on. Rest up and when ready fire the last 40 feet of power-crimping on beautiful rock (real crux). If not for the ledge rest it would be an incredible mega-endurance route. This route is LONG so bring either an 80m rope or two 60m to get off. Because it is not very overhanging, cleaning on rappel is ok!

6b+ The Apple of Chick and Fox
7b Sky Girls
5.12d Sky Path
West

This is the most popular area and has the most routes in the canyon. The climbs tend to be in the 5.10 range and are much shorter than the East wall. Gets morning sun and afternoon shade

West
8a The Maple Way of Drilling
6c Cliff Chicken

Climb through the juggy lower section to the thin crux at the roof

6c The French King

The longest route on this wall. Varied moves bring you up on large pockets and edges. Move between flakes at the top. Wanders a bit and will test your route finding abilities!

5a Childhood
6b+ Institutionalized

Steep and pumpy start leads to a slaby crux just before the anchors

6b Death Spank

Thin and crimpy. Stay somewhat right of the bolts. Move left over the bulge to the anchors

5a Centepide

Fun thin pockets at the start into a crack system to a fantastic finish.

5c Side Swipe

Six bolts to shared anchors with Centipede.

6a+ Frostbite

Scramble up the blocks at ground level, to the thin and reachey crux then finish up on the last few bolts of Fire and Brimstone.

6b+ Fire and Brimstone

Steep and pumpy with super cool moves make this a must do route.

6a+ Spinal Crack

Great moves through steep terrain.

6a+ Noy

One of the first bolted routes at the crag. A bolt was added down low to eliminate a scary run out. A slabby route that demands your attention.

6b+ Ararat

Thin and Slabby. What used to be a serious lead has been dumbed down by retro-bolting...Still a good route

5a Screaming Khorovats
5b Cheese and Wieners
6a Ignorance

Reachey moves toward the top.

6c World Famous Nobody

Mellow moves leads to a rather exiting crux towards the top! Bolts to a two chain anchor.

5b Estragon and Sisy Bolts

Short, fun and a bit slabby.

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