Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Fecha | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
26 | ★ Fists of Fury - con Dave J | 20m | Arapiles | Medio | Lun 27.º Oct 2014 | |||
25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.
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25 | ★★ The Low Down - con Ken | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
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24 | ★ It'll Never Fly - con Edwin | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 29.º Sep 1991 | |||
Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.
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24 | ★ Indoctrination | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 23.º Oct 2014 | |||
Needs rebolting. The start is crimpy and not that great. It's a better route to do the start of Claw and join the traverse at about 4m. Gear is not totally bomber with a shallow cam pretty much all between you and the ground.
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24 | ★ Out of the Blue - con Martin Tatton | 70m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 28.º Mar 2015 | |||
The roof is good climbing, the crux is mantling onto the slab over the lip! Worth a star.
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23 24 | ★★ Fault Line - con Paul Hoskins | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
It was a long time ago, but seemed more like 23
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24 | ★ Deep Throat - con Wayne Webb | 15m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
A bit thin on gear
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23 24 | ★★ Jilted | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.
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21 |
★ Mental Debris
- con
Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1
21
escalada de primero por
me
2
3
| 40m, 1 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!
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24 | ★ Strange Tenants - con Paul Hoskins | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 15.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★ Loudly Inferior - con Cate | 10m | Arapiles | Medio | Lun 3.º Sep 2012 | |||
Hard finish is out of keeping - The Squeaky Wheel is much better
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23 23 R | Luxury Item - con Marty | 15m | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.
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23 23 R | ★ Kookenhagen | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.
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23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.
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23 | ★★ Beside Myself | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.
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23 | ★★ Iron Void | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!
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23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Bolts need replacing
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23 | ★ Crayons - con Donna | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Hard scary start to desperate finish. Not 22, at all.
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23 | ★ Crystal Prophet - con ross taylor | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Start is a bit goey, even with bolt clipped. Crux moving out from top of flake feels blind and exposed and out there - but the runner is really not that far away. It just feels far away.
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23 | Hard Snort - con Chad Albinger | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Vie 16.º Oct 2015 | |||
I didn't think this was worth a star... or even worth doing again.
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23 | ★ High Kicks | 13m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
24 23 | ★ Strapping | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 3.º Nov 2015 | |||
One very hard move...
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23 23 R | ★ Moving Right Along | 14m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Finish is runout, not the start.
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23 23 R | ★ Ferrets and Berts - con Jessie Rushbrooke | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
I did the sensible version - up XI to to the top of the crack, then L to the bolt. I found it quite technical, puzzling and blind. Good!
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23 | ★ Pulpy Kidney - con Rob Oliver | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Has new bolts, yay.
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23 | Nostalgia | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.
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23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz - con Dave Jones | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 21.º En 1994 | |||
On my 23rd birthday!
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23 | ★★ Snow Blind | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
Very good but slick
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23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★★ Haphazard - con estherenita | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.
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23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.
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23 | ★ Inextricably - con Cate Webb | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★ Just Out of Habit | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
I saw Moorhead/Muir '81 in the guide and prepared myself to be sandbagged - but it is fair for 23 and the gear is ok - just an exception to keep you on your toes. Crux is not as nice as the rest of the route.
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23 | ★ Hokey Pokey - con Martin Tatton | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | Witch Craft - con Andrew Clark | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 2.º Sep 2012 | |||
It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.
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22 22 R | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.
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22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Fabulous steep jamming. Wonderful.
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22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Tricky and pumpy at the top
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22 | ★ Guideline | 8m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Cute!
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22 | ★ Private Detective | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Always a little scary.
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22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Lun 13.º Oct 2014 | |||
Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.
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22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 14.º Oct 2014 | |||
Pretty tough!
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22 | ★ Follow Your Nose | 12m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
Take care with gear.
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22 | ★★ Continuum | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
I'd give it one star. A bit runout through and after the crux and rock is a bit dodgy up high
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22 | ★★ Loading Zone - con Paul Hoskins | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
This route's ok but I don't seem to love it like everyone else.
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22 | ★ Linear Transformation | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Utterly desperate start with worrying gear, at the top is a slightly desperate corner with slightly worrying gear.
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22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Good I remember, with a great wire slot in the blankest part.
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22 22 X | ★ Blyth Street Direct Start - con Paul Hoskins | 12m | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Jesus fracking Christ. Didn't know what I was getting myself in for. First runner is at about half height. After that I took note of Warwick Baird routes!
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22 | ★★ Vapour Trail - con Cate Webb | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 23.º Sep 2015 | |||
Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!
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22 | ★ Mediterranean Sundance | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 5.º Oct 2015 | |||
Better starting from Anything At All and traversing in.
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22 | ★ Nihilism | 18m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Day of Rest Direct Finish - con Cate Webb | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
Exciting crux above the gear.
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22 | ★★ No Future Direct | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
22 | ★ Eat More Meat - con estherenita | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Classic slick desperate Arapiles seam.
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22 | Boogie Boogie - con Wendy Eden | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 2.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Quisling Direct Start | 22m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 3.º Nov 2015 | |||
Technical and pumpy placing the gear
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22 | I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne - con Wendy Eden | 10m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.
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22 22 R | ★ Jeepers | 8m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.
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23 22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!
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22 | ★ Fear of Flying | 12m | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ Wall Street | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
Pumpy placing the gear... and doing the finish. Steeper than it looks
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22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.
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22 | Acrobat | 20m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★ Siva | 12m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
A few good moves
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22 | ★ Drivetime | 8m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★ White Heat - con Kate Dooley | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.
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22 | ★ Black Spasm - con Paul Deacon | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.
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23 22 | ★★ Celluloid Heroes - con Gareth Llewellin | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
Interesting and varied.
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23 22 | Hyperbola Left Hand Variant | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 16.º Nov 2015 | |||
Maybe 23?
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22 | ★★ Goodbye | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.
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22 21 | ★ Beelzebub Direct Start - con Andrew Clark | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 2.º Sep 2014 | |||
Very, very hard for 20. And probably reachy, and dangerous getting to the bolt.
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22 21 | ★ Frenzy | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Stiff for 21, start is desperate
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21 | ★★ Evans Above - con Juergen Bollinger | 40m | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 29.º Mar 2015 | |||
Despite looking like it's hardly worth doing this route has three really interesting technical sections. Traverse into it above the bolts. Double ropes are a must and a tiny cam is nice to have.
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21 | ★★ The British Beat | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mié 23.º Sep 2015 | |||
Horrible slick slab. Glad I did it when I was too young to know better and don't have to do it again.
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21 21 R | Pick and Lose | 20m | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 16.º Oct 2015 | |||
21 | ★ Four Spooner | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Dom 18.º Oct 2015 | |||
Pumpy to place the gear.
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21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
Really pumpy at the start getting the gear in. After that just pumpy! At the top go R, not straight up the corner
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21 | ★ Cut Short - con Douglas Hockly | 30m | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Lun 19.º Oct 2015 | |||
I clearly don't like this route as much as most! Climbing's not great and the gear hard to place.
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21 | ★★ No Future | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
21 | ★ Underneath the Colours | 55m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
21 | ★ Great Working Dog Stories - con Wendy Eden | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Second pitch is quite cryptic! Had me stumped for quite a while.
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21 | ★ Passionate Tips - con claudio trefny | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 2.º Nov 2015 | |||
21 | Saddle Sore | 10m | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mar 3.º Nov 2015 | |||
very short and a bit scrappy
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21 | ★★ Droop Street | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Pumpy to place the gear. Good climbing but all over after 10m
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21 | Saraband - con Wendy Eden, estherenita | 15m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Hard start which is difficult to protect. Not the greatest rock. Top crack is nice. I was surprised by a nesting bronzewing pigeon exploding out of her nest at about half height.
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21 | The Garden's Full of Furniture | 15m | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Felt loose and poorly protected
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21 | ★ Not Like a Hurricane | 18m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 21 | ★★ Slap the Philanthropist | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Borderline 22.
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21 21 R | ★★ Wogs at the Piles | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
Pretty much all the gear is not that inspiring.
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21 | ★ Saturation Point - con Kate Finnerty | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
A great looking line but the climbing's a bit graunchy - laybacking up a slab for the crux. The rest is pretty good, but Wasp is better - and harder!
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20 21 | ★★ Aussie Logic - con Cate Webb | 23m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Distinctly easier if you are tall. Nice climbing. I wander R of the upper bolt too. Needs brackets.
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21 | Artifact RHV | 10m | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Did this thinking it was a new route... damn you Hoskins!
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21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
I love this route - varied, technical, good gear but you have to go above it. Shame it doesn't finish direct.
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