Nodo |
---|
Fang Buttress and Surrounds
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Fang Buttress Area |
Major Mitchell Gully
Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area |
Major Mitchell Gully |
Morfydd Wall
The long grey wall running along Major Mitchell Gully. Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area |
Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall |
24
Rocky
Start up high in Major Mitchell Gully, above the massive boulder, and opposite Brontosaurus (described under Dunes Buttress). May in fact be right up at the top of the gully on a small block when the gully is very narrow and further up than Brontosaurus (on opposite wall, but not directly opposite.) From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line. |
23
Bullwinkle
Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block. |
18
★★ Natchez Trace
A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top. Start above Trench Warfare, under a little wall which faces Dunes Buttress and is on the same level as the start of Thunder Crack (which is described under the Bluff Major section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite Missing Link or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park. |
26
★ Anxious Boys with Power Toys
Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare. |
24
★ Trench Warfare
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously. Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully. |
19
★★ Firedance
The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor. |
19
Bearbrass
Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.
|
24
★★ Deeply Techo
Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top. Start as for Feral Chicken. |
22
★★ Feral Chicken
Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish. Start 3m L of L. |
23
★★ Feral Chicken Direct Finish
An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors. |
25
★ Feral Fee-box
Fridge hugging. Start 2m R of FC. |
15
★ Lennox
Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall. Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right. |
21
★★ Slap the Philanthropist
Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall. |
15
★ The Philanthropist
3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L. |
23
★ Petrol Solutions
As for Slap Happy (crux) to the ledge, then follow the bolts. Better than it looks and manages to stay out of Slap the Philanthropist. Start as for SH. |
23
★★ Slap Happy
Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge. Start 2m R of L. |
23
Kool Aid
Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains. |
23
★ Wavy Gravy
Start a metre right of the rock step and follow initial couple of bolts through crux sequence to ledge, step left on ledge and up through proud rock. Small wires and small cams. |
23
★ Mr Happy Direct (Supper Happy)
A more obvious direct version of Mr Happy. After the first two bolts of Mr Happy head straight up the wall via horizontal with small to medium cams to join the end of Kinkaid. |
18
★★ Kinkaid
A sweet slab. Has lower-offs. |
18
★ Housemaid's Knee
The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove. Start just L of G. |
9
Gazollika
Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof. |
17
★ Leadership Spill
Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear. |
8
Blinky Bill
This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new. Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall. |
15
No Place for Foxes
Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove. Start just R of G. |
15
★ No Space for Boxes
From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS. |
16
★ Foxes in Boxes
Good climbing some dodgy gear. |
24
★★ No Standing
Very good climbing. Choose either crack to start (both tough), then follow the thin diagonal line with good gear up to and past an old piton (pin can be backed up with modern small cams and isn't really needed any more). Start in the middle of the buttress L of Morfydd. |
25
Standing on Principles
Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam. Start 2m R of NS. |
19
★ Stillborn
The line delineating the L side of the Morfydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors. |
25
★★ Master Blaster
Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of Stillborn, or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better). Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is good gear now with modern gear, (especially near the pin which should not be trusted by it's self), but can you hang on to place it. The high bolt on Morfyne should also be backed up. |
24
★ Morfyne
Close to Morfydd at times, but still a very appealing wall. Start 3m L of Morfydd. Note: the top bolt should be backed up; easy to do in the horizontal just below. |
19
★★★ Morfydd
Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top. |
22
★ Mojito
This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux. |
23
Visual Laxative
Accidentally retroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of Morfydd. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock. |
20
★ Televisual Laxative
As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge. |
12
★ Bygone
The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face. |
24
The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle
Start in the gully right of Bygone, below the crack near arete. Looks rather serious. |
Major Mitchell Gully |
Ali's Area
The wall directly behind Fang Buttress. Mostly trafficked simply to ascend to & descend from greater things above. Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Morfydd Wall Area |
Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area |
10
★ Debut
A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.
|
12
★ The Grand Arapiles Alpine Traverse
This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes. |
9 R
Ali's Face
Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's. |
3
★ Ali's
Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress. |
26
The Dude Abides
Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts. |
25
Nursery Rhymes
Start as for Ali's. Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete. |
21
★ Directathal
Up the diagonal crack of Meanderthal, then instead of traversing R continue up the arete. |
24
Tobermory
Start as for Directathal. Then what? (Maybe it takes the middle of the bulge then the face R of the arete, staying between Directathal and Meanderthal?) |
22
Meanderthal
Start as for Ali's. Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then traverse 5m R to steep jugging. |
13
A Snortiblog in Paradise
Up the corner of Sisyphus to ledge, then head up L on red wall. |
12
Sisyphus
Start at Ali's.
|
12
Oedipus Complex
Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard. |
Cerrado Fang Buttress
The large outcrop behind the Plaque and in front of Ali's. Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Fang Buttress Area Reason for closure: Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance of Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years. |
Cerrado Fang Buttress |
24 X
★ Cosmos
Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended. This looks like it has 2 or 3 bolts now? Start: In the middle of the grey wall L of O-W. |
26
Hot Finger
Follow the BRs. Start: Start just L of O-W. |
15 R
Orc-Wood
A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall. Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's. |
20 R
Vaunted
This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang. Start: Start as for O-W. |
23
★ Suicide Fly
The arete right of Orc-Wood with 2 bolts |
23
The Bitter End
Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt. Start: Start just L of K. |
16
★ Kamikaze
Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm... Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'. |
24
Towelled Off
Up the middle of the face between K and DA. Start: Start just R of K. |
23
Dead Ahead
Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish. Start: Start as for TO. |
23 R
★ Ferrets and Berts
Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense). Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI. |
18 R
★★ XI
The gear is good from the crack up, but below that... Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'. |
24
★★ Counting the Days
Originally given 24 and one bolt - would have been very bold getting to the bolt. There are two ways to do it, some people find it easier to climb left of the bolts. Retrobolted by the first ascentionist. Start: Start as for 'Placements'. |
25
★★ Placements
Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang). Alternative opinion: the gear is not bombproof! Small, fiddly gear through crux with decking potential if you can't place it. Good gear exists at the start and in the top diagonal. A block came off the start of the hard section, not sure if this has changed the route. Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove. |
18
★ Fang
A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder. Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'. |
26
★ Strolling Direct Start
Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux. Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'. |
27
★★ Hyperlink
Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'. Start: As for SDS. |
23
★★ Strolling
Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead. Start: Start 8m R of Fang. |
24
★★ Strolling Right Hand Variant
Original climbed bolt free but now it is possible to clip 2 of the bolts of Ergonomics. Start as for Strolling then up and right from loose block past the broken remnants of an old PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead or clip bolt). Now pull over the bulge (again try to ignore the bolt) and trend L up the face to join the finish of Strolling. Protection is adequate even without the bolts. Be very careful of the massive every-so-slightly-loose block down low - you'll need to pull on it, but do not put gear behind it. |
26
★★★ Ergonomics
Recently re-bolted. Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV. Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent. Start: 3m R of Strolling. |
29
★★ Wagalak
There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock. Start 4m L of 'Mantis'. It's almost a sport route but you need a few med. cams before the bolts. |
19
★ Mandible
Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains. |
24 R
★ Victarctica
Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps! Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it for about 6m. Now step L onto the steep orange left wall and up this over the bulge (grade 23 climbing with dicky gear) to the break (the traverse on Mandible). Continue up Mandible or Preying. |
18
★ Preying
Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge |
16
Mantis Variant Finish
As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this. Start: Start as for 'Mantis'. |
14
★★ Mantis
Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left. Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang. |
15
★★ Downward Bound
Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979. Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'. |
11
Fear of Praying
Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left. Start: Start 1m R of DB. |
13
Petard
Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'. Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying. |
19
Liver Little
Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again. Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney' |
23
★ Pulpy Kidney
Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete. Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind. |
16 R
The Wizard
Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above. Start: Start 5m R of PK. |
15
Thibenzol
Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall. Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy. |
20 R
A Bit on the Side
Not much pro. Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall. |
16
I'd give Both My Ankles to do a route this close to camp
The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows. |
10
Skybax Rider
Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'. Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard. |
Cerrado Plaque
The large block in front of Fang and Bard buttresses. Named for the large commemorative plaque attached to the face. Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Plaque Rock area Reason for closure, Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance of Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years. |
Cerrado Plaque |
20
They Shoot Horses Don't They
A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers. Start: Start on the far L. |
18
★ Tis-sa-ack
Start 2m right of the crack at the far left and straight up. |
18 R
★ The Nose of El Capitan
Start 2m right of the crack at the far left. Veer right and up the face. |
23 R
★ Jump Club
Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove. |
18
★ Age of Raisins
Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up. |
14
★ Minimus
The bulging crack just right of the plaque. |
19
Loop
The line between Minimus and Camelot. |
10
★ Camelot
Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top. |
17
★ Maximus
The thin wall 2m right of Camelot. |