Nodos en Death Row Pinnacle

The separate pinnacle on the camp ground side of the Pharos. Birdman of Alcatraz is the L leading diagonal crack.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Death Row Area

About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top.

Appealing leftward leaning clean crack, then up to finish just left of 'Rush Hour'. A longer version has been done (and re-named "I'm Lichen It") by finishing left into corner, through bulge and on to summit block. Start: Start 2-3m L of RH.

Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak.

Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes.

Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!).

If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26.

As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original.

There are a number of great variants on this section of rock, but to write them all up as new routes would clutter everything up. Instead, they are listed below (thanks to Glenn Tempest for most of the route descriptions).

1. Action Kid/Birdman (23): start up Action Kid but continue direct up the superb fingery wall (Action Kid heads off L past the bolt) to join Birdman's crux moves traversing right to gain the crack. This allows you to easily do Birdman with a single rope, flows really well and is slightly more consistent at the grade.

2. Bent/Birdman (23): do the start of Bent to join Birdman. By avoiding the straight forward start of Birdman, and replacing it with the challenging start of Bent, makes for one of the most sustained grade 23s at the Mount.

3. Birdman/Bent/Bad/Bent DF (22)

4. Birdman/Bent/Bad/Death Row (22): probably the easiest way up this section of wall. I'm surprised Douglas (the prince of link ups) never wrote this one up!

This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic! Start 3m L of 'Social Comment', 20m R of 'Rush Hour'. Thin crack thru bulge to ledge. Up past BR, go L then back R and join Birdman on ledge. R up groove past BR.

Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.

Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.

1. 15m (13) V crack then reachy step L to ledge. Belay on the L.

2. 22m (13) Up R to flake (hollow but avoidable), up L to ledge, R to balancey finish.

Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR).

Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman.

Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!).

Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt.

Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25.

Great first pitch. Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived and is usually not done.

Start: Start 1m R of Birdman.

1. 25m (23) Thin crack, then undercling L around low roof. Up corner then step R to belay.

2. 20m (22) Step L, over roof and up arete. Move L then over corner/bulge.

Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder.

Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face.

Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle.

A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .

1. 20m Up to a short right-facing corner, which leads to easy climbing up to the saddle between the main 'Death Row Pinnacle' and the summit of Garden Gnome. Belay at the Garden Gnome chains.

2. 20m Wall to the summit of Death Row Pinnacle.

Cute little thing starting 20m up right from 'Death Row'. Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face.

Start 2m R of 'Sky Scraper' , just R of native pine. Groove, step L, straight over bulge.

Contrived. Start 3m R of 'Garden Gnome'. Steep seam 2m L of 'Cloud Piercer', R at bulge but stay out of 'Cloud Piercer'.

Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains.

4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle.

Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m.

5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right).

5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit.

Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle.