Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.
37m (17) Follow the corner for 17 metres, protection is spaced for first few metres. Move left at chalked-up weakness into a diagonal scooped line. Follow this to below roof and move left to terrace. DRB (35m rap to ground if required).
30m (17) Pull through the first easy weakness on left side of overhangs. Traverse 3 metres right (stay low) and make an airy step across a gap. Take line leading straight up into awkward bottomless chimney. Easy chimney leads to large ledge, continue further 5m up to another large terrace. Scramble off left or climb short wall to base of French Crack.
Jun 1976 | Primera ascensión:
Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton Glenn led the first pitch carrying an umbrella as it was raining quite heavily at the time |
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Jul 1976 | Primera ascensión:
Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton First pitch as done now |
Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
17,17 | Grado de dificultad |
17 | ★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
17 [17 - 18] + | grAId |
18 | ★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria |
18 | ★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
La calidad general 82 de las 319 valoraciones.
Basado en valoraciones de 19.
Basado en valoraciones de 19.
Autor(es): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Fecha: 2016
número ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Autor(es): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Fecha: 2013
número ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Autor(es): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Fecha: 2011
número ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Cliff Barnett y Mark Charles Barnett en ★★★ Oceanoid 17 - 2019-04-18T17-23-52_v2.jpg
Nia O'Connor en ★★★ Oceanoid 17 - _MG_0278.jpg
Cliff Barnett en ★★★ Oceanoid 17 - 2019-04-18T17-21-40_v2.jpg
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