Ascensiones en Australia por John Pitcairn

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Mostrando 1 - 100 de 380 ascensiones.

	Grado	Vía	Estilo de equipamiento	Calidad
Sáb 11.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	15	★ Sonatine - con AJ	Clásica 48m	★ Buena
A bit too tired to contemplate Thunder Crack with AJ, decided to do something not in the select guide and not done before. It's quite good and the corner is great, though the greasy lichen felt remarkably like climbing in NZ. There is a #1 red totem in a flaring slot under the wall-facing lip of the halfway block. Linked both pitches on double ropes, finished to Toccata anchor with a high redirect to avoid (more) drag. Trip done.
Vie 10.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
	15	★★ Beautiful Possibilities - con AJ	Clásica 30m	★★★ Clásico
Flows beautifully.
	19	★★ Possibly Beautiful - con AJ	Clásica 28m	★ Buena
Fine lead from AJ. Balancy getting the gear out.
	18	★★ Golden Fleece - con AJ	Clásica 35m	★★ Muy buena
Warmup? Haha.
Jue 9.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
	18	★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses - con AJ 1 17 50 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Hard start off the ground. Declined to follow AJ's harder line at the flake. 2 18 50 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Lack of tip skin or strength or something meant I couldn't stick on one crack hold after placing gear, had to devise a sequence in from very slightly left. It's all over after that. Ran it all the way to the top with stupendous rope drag. 3 10 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 110m
Jue 9.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
	16	★★★ Watchtower Crack - con Jonno Rau, AJ 1 12 25m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 14 20m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Linked 1-2 on doubles, taking LH line on P2. 3 16 18m De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau Parked myself in the start of Mr Chicken, which looks fairly do-able and may be on the list now. 4 16 32m De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Really rather slick and greasy now, much more than I remember.	Clásica mixta 95m, 3	★★★ Clásico
Jonno's last climb for the trip. What a beaut.
Mar 7.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
	20 Duro	★★ Electric Warrior - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 30m	★★ Muy buena
Took 3 nuts preclipped to draws for the crux, but really only the one placed from the wobbly block was warranted. Then got utterly sandbagged by Jonno yelling "is this where you fell off?" at the top crack and spent 10 minutes dithering before getting it right. Well played mate ... you'll keep.
	20 Duro	★★ Electric Warrior - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 30m	★★ Muy buena
Spent a while trying to use AJ's really nice looking footwork beta and falling off, boing. Then finally remembered mine.
	14	★★ Megalomaniac - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 28m	★★ Muy buena
Lun 6.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
	15	★★ Sundance - con Jonno Rau, AJ 1 12 42 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 2 15 22 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Onsight because way way off route on previous attempt. 3 13 30 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ 4 14 48 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Not badly runout and really good, don't avoid it. Double ropes help. I have no memory of this pitch.	Clásica 140m	★ Buena
Got pretty baked in full sun.
Dom 5.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
	19	★★ Firedance - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 15m	★ Buena
Managed to get pumped before the crux, downclimbed to gear and sat. Crux took some working out, look for the feet. A ball nut was handy. Must revisit.
	12	★ Bygone - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica mixta 30m, 1	Medio
	18 ~17	★★ Kinkaid - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 20m	★ Buena
Warmup, really not 18.
Sáb 4.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	14	★★ Tremulo - con Jonno Rau, AJ	Clásica 25m	★ Buena
Sáb 4.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
	15	★★ Ejaculation - con Jonno Rau, AJ 1 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Lovely finger crack to a great shady belay spot. 2 Clásica escalada de primero por AJ	Clásica 50m	★★ Muy buena
Sáb 4.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
	15	★★ Necrophilliac - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 25m	★ Buena
Jue 2.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
	15 Duro	★★ Siamese Crack - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 25m	★★ Muy buena
Forgot the crack gloves, had to be a bit more selective about the jams. Harder than I remember as a result.
	12	★★ Cheshire Cat - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 22m	★★ Muy buena
Jue 2.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
	12	★★ Panzer - con Jonno Rau 1 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 3 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 95m	★★★ Clásico
You'd think that if the route is occupied and it's a quiet day, people would find something else good close by instead of cramming up hard behind you on P1, but no.
Mié 1.º Mayo 2024 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
	10	★★★ Eskimo Nell - con Jonno Rau 1 35 Clásica escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 2 40 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Jonno climbed the 6m to jetty at top of chimney, ie the original P2. 3 15 Clásica escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 4 40 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 130m	★★★ Clásico
Rapped off: the usual very hard pull on the first rap and got a rope tail wrapped around a block/crack up above, had to re-lead the chimney and traverse to free it then downclimb. The rap often provides a fair bit of trouble and I wouldn't recommend it, walk off.
Mar 30.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
	16	★★ Coming on Chris - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 25m
Been on the list for a while now. Tis good, easier than it looks.
Mar 30.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
	13	★ Jezebel - con Jonno Rau 1 13 35 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 8 15 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 3 13 36 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Quite absorbing, worthwhile. Handy rap-off on double ropes.	Clásica 86m
Lun 29.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
	17 R Fácil	★★ Stentor P3 - con Jonno Rau 3 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 50m	★ Buena
	11	★★ Piccolo - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 33m	★★ Muy buena
Lun 29.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
	11	★★★ Agamemnon - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 40m	★★★ Clásico
Linked both pitches.
Lun 29.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
	13	★★★ Muldoon - con Jonno Rau 1 13 20m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Been a long time, quite different from what I remembered. Shallow but good #3 or so nut at crux. 2 12 22m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 42m	★★★ Clásico
Rapped off on a 60 by swinging into alcove and wedging there to get off the rope.
Dom 28.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
	14	★★ D Minor - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 35m	★ Buena
Following an early morning slog back up the gully to D Major top to look for the forgotten hex, then extended search for its bootiers around camp. Jonno linked both pitches. Arvo trip into Nati for gas bottle swap.
Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
	10	★★ D Major - con Jonno Rau 1 10 25m De segundo 2 10 25m Clásica	Clásica 50m	★ Buena
Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
	15	★ ScarIet Sage - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 10m	★★ Muy buena
Sáb 27.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
	11	★ Lizard Procrastination - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 40m	Medio
Jonno led it all in one pitch.
Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area
	12	★★★ Siren Direct Finish P4 - con Jonno Rau 4 12 50m Clásica From Hot Flap P3.	Clásica 50m	★★★ Clásico
Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
	14	★★ Hot Flap - con Jonno Rau 1 8 24 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Started up Siren P1 by mistake and linked it into P2 of this at about 58m total and considerable rope drag... 2 13 30 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 3 14 32 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau A bit too far right for Jonno and an unexpected tumbling backwards fall. Seconded the same line and the move is part of Creon at about grade 16.	Clásica mixta 86m, 3	★★ Muy buena
Mié 24.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
	17	★ Crescendo - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 35m	★ Buena
A nice combo of slab, crack, arete/overhang.
Mié 24.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
	13	★★ Hell For Leather - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 30m	★★ Muy buena
	8	★★ Tantalus - con Jonno Rau 1 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau 2 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 35m	★ Buena
Mar 23.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	17 ~16	★★ Dirge P1 - con AJ 1 17 35m Clásica escalada de primero por AJ	Clásica 35m	★★ Muy buena
Mar 23.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
	8	★★ Diapason - con Jonno Rau, AJ 1 7 20 Clásica escalada de primero por Jonno Rau Mr Cripple anchored about halfway up P2. 2 6 25 De segundo escalada de primero por Jonno Rau Led the last 5m and across the shelf, straight into P3. 3 8 10 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 55m	★★ Muy buena
Dropping the grades for a few days to warm the injuries up slow.
Lun 22.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	17	★★ Discord Direct - con AJ	Clásica mixta 25m, 2	★★ Muy buena
Something to save the day a bit.
Lun 22.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
	20	★★ Vanoise - con AJ	Clásica 20m	★★ Muy buena
Fantastic almost-onsight from AJ. Unfantastic flailing from me. Wrist angles required not at all sympathetic.
Lun 22.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
	19	★★★ Judgement Day - con AJ 1 10 27 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 18 25 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Wow! Balancy. Don't fall off seconding as you approach the anchor, there ain't much gear in for you. This is the money pitch. 3 19 15 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Flubbed it. Tendonitis wrist lock up ow, then misread the crux sequence and didn't have the wrist strength/flexibility left to get out of trouble, pitched off on a good swinging fall into nothing. Managed to swing back into Shivers and dog the moves back up that, then did the crux easily. Hopefully will be able to revisit.	Clásica mixta 67m, 1	★★★ Clásico
Dom 21.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
Far North Vandal Area
	18	★★ Sweet Surrender - con AJ 1 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Hard start, not helped by getting stuck in the tree. Got fairly pumped. 2 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ A bit easier than it looks from below, and rather nice.	Clásica 60m	★★ Muy buena
	17	★★ Vandal - con AJ 1 15m De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Quite stiff off the deck. 2 15m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Much better than I remember, good jams, avoidable guano. 3 15m De segundo escalada de primero por AJ My calves!	Clásica 45m	★★ Muy buena
Sáb 20.º Abr 2024 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
	14	★★ Hot Flap - con AJ 1 8 24 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 13 30 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ 3 14 32 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 4 13 50 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ 5 12 35 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica mixta 170m, 3	★★ Muy buena
Nice warmup for the trip after a chat with Ed.
Dom 15.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
	18	★★ Golden Fleece - con Loren, Kate	Clásica 35m	★★ Muy buena
A short weather window on a drizzly day, route greasy with the odd inconvenient puddle. Spaced the gear a bit, did some kind of neato side pull high step palm off thing at high crux. 2 hours later followed this with a very greasy solo up and down behind Moby Dick to retrieve the totem I left in the belay. Trip done.
Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
	5	★★ Introductory Route	Clásica 140m	★★ Muy buena
Back still not keen on a loaded harness, a bit bored, so ... think I traversed a bit too high, immediately under roof. Select guide topo and description differ.
Vie 13.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
	5	★★★ Tiptoe Ridge	Clásica 120m	★★★ Clásico
No partner, back not happy, went looking for my missing offset. Not there.
Mar 10.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
	19	★★ Sideshow - con AJ	Clásica 35m	★★ Muy buena
All went pretty well, spaced the gear out a bit but would be clean falls. Technical footwork between good finger locks in general. Stepped left to arete rest at top and thought this can't be it, stepped back right and seems I took direct finish. 19 for that but standard finish would make it 18 I think. We are done. Back to camp, took a pratfall in slippery jandals with back landing across tree root. Rest day now please, maybe 2.
	18 Duro	★★★ Entertainer - con AJ	Clásica 20m	★★★ Clásico
Quite the onsight fight for AJ. An epic 2 minute bout of swearing and gibbering under the roof could only be answered by "roger that". The finish through the bulge was taken.
	15 R	★ The Joker - con AJ	Clásica mixta 25m, 1	★ Buena
Enjoyable warmup with some thoughtful moves. Why the R rating? There might be gear near the bolt but it might be shit. Both a bit wrecked but last day for AJ.
Lun 9.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
	19	★★ Acapulco Gold - con AJ	Clásica 10m	★ Buena
I just wanted to lie down in camp. Valiant attempt by AJ with a few falls, attentive belaying required. Surprised to get a clean second.
Lun 9.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
	14	★ The Green Singer - con AJ 1 14 45 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Hefty pull on then quite engaging. 2 12 45 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Went right early at the slot and climbed the orange side wall, which is good, more exposed, but watch the rock here and there. Think I left a black DMM offset in the belay. 3 12 20 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ AJ attempted to go direct which looks neat but gear not heartening. Better pro out right. 4 12 15 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn A fun initial crank, then it's all over.	Clásica 130m	Medio
Getting a bit wrecked, need a cruise. P1-2 good, P3-4 not so much. Disturbed a brown snake just a little off the trail on way up. Highlight was watching the Dunedinites with 2 very young daughters go up Tiptoe Ridge. Girls, you rock!
Dom 8.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
	20 Duro	★★ Electric Warrior - con AJ	Clásica 30m	★★★ Clásico
So so close. Got the bottom crux well enough with good gear, through the much cruisier middle, forgot my own beta and fell off the finger lock up top. Damn, textbook fail. Will come back. Gear spoilers: black alien protects the start move up to the ledge, the rest just wants lots of nuts, with 0.4 cam before finger crack and 0.5 or 0.75 for the awkward top bit. 120 sling for the big thread midway.
	20 Duro	★★ Electric Warrior - con AJ	Clásica 30m	★★★ Clásico
Time to up the game. A top rope run to check out the gear. Came off at the low crux a couple of times, decided to lead it.
	17	★★★ Mari - con AJ	Clásica 35m	★★★ Megaclásica
Warmup. Belayed from bottom of corner. Easy jamming over all too quickly, then some monkey business getting gear out under the roof. When did the rap chains go in? And why?
Sáb 7.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
	16	★★★ Brolga - con AJ 1 15 30 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Pleasant wandering slabbing on doubles to access more gear placements. 2 16 30 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ More gear than P1, though not quite where you most want it. AJ used my tiny original WC zero 3 for the crux off the belay. Seemed really good. 3 14 30 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn In desperate need of a wee. Off to Horsham for laundry and supplies.	Clásica 90m	★★★ Clásico
Needed something completely different after the Hyaena shitshow...
Vie 6.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
	18 ~20	★★ Hyaena — 2 intentos - con AJ	Clásica 16m
An epic 4 hour session with 2 lead attempts from me. All that can be said is I got up the thing. Very very hard, pumpy, gear in the way, gibbering, downclimbs, falls, sits, sulking, go for it and pray, swearing, utter shellshock. The gear is fine. Nothing left in the tank. Tom, you are a master sandbagger.
Vie 6.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
	18 ~17	★★ Daily Planet - con AJ	Clásica 20m	Medio
A bit soft and not terribly memorable.
	10	★★ Mesa - con AJ	Clásica 33m	★ Buena
Eats nuts. How many 10s have a crux with this few holds? Cold morning, perhaps not sufficient as warmup.
Jue 5.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
	18 Fácil	★★ Huey - con AJ	Clásica 16m	★★ Muy buena
Easier than expected and bloody good with decent gear. Seems I can climb with a cold just fine. Back to camp as showers set in.
Jue 5.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
	15	★ Pibroch - con AJ	Clásica 20m	Medio
AJ exorcises a demon with audience of ShiChang and Vasily (more interested in the rock than the climbing). It's OK.
Mié 4.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
	15 Fácil	★★ Mr Hyde - con AJ	Clásica 15m	★★ Muy buena
Considerably easier than it looks, and you don't need big gear. Very very very fun.
	18	★ Jeckle - con AJ	Clásica 18m	Medio
Good lead from AJ. Start is committing but we both did it differently. Good piece after the crank. I do wonder if the FA traversed in from left, which would make the original 14 about right.
	13	★ Sheckle - con AJ	Clásica 18m	★ Buena
Not feeling great, definitely got a cold. This would be pretty good if longer.
	13 R	★★ Rush of Blood - con AJ	Clásica 18m	★★ Muy buena
Really nice. Sling is not insecure if you can tie a good slip knot. There is also a small less good offset after it.
Mar 3.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Looking Glass Wall
	15	★ Hand Job - con AJ	Clásica 23m	★★ Muy buena
Nervy start is more secure than it looks. Really enjoyed this. Not enough daylight left to menage.
Mar 3.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove
	16	★ Celeste - con AJ	Clásica 25m	★ Buena
Not actually as good as it looks. Soloed up to the corner crack. Careful, cams can walk in. Rapped off like sensible people, just barely down on a 60.
Mar 3.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall
	11	★★ Bastress - con AJ	Clásica 36m	★★ Muy buena
Rained in the morning, ok the arvo. Great value for the grade. Stupidly did the walk off downclimb sketchyness.
Lun 2.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
	13 Duro	★ Lawrence - con AJ 1 9 35 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Hot day, headed for shade. Wanted Arab but that was occupied, got a shrubbery instead. 2 13 35 Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn Great pitch. Tried to go up the right side of huge block near end (hard), down thrutched, went up the rib out right with no pro (dumb), then made exposed traverse with slung chicken head (fun) to get back on line before belay. Stay left. There is booty at belay if you can be bothered. 3 13 30 De segundo escalada de primero por AJ Seemed over all too soon. Hot walk back to camp then too hot, hit Nati for a beer.	Clásica 100m	★ Buena
Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	15 Duro	★★ Toccata - con AJ 1 15 27m De segundo escalada de primero por AJ 2 13 23m Clásica escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 50m	★★★ Clásico
Awesome end to first day. Avoided stuffing myself in. Also AJ's first descent through the hole.
Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
	17 R Fácil	★★ Stentor P3 - con AJ 3 Clásica	Clásica 50m	★ Buena
It was there, it was appealing. It is not 17 and not very R.
	11	★★ Piccolo - con AJ	Clásica 33m	★★ Muy buena
Overnighting at Green Lake much better than rolling in at 4am. Hard to believe AJ has never led this.
Sáb 5.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
	19	★★★ Morfydd - con John Henry	Clásica 30m	★★★ Clásico
Time to step up. Sorted the low crux with one downclimb to rest after placing gear, got a good rest at the next ledge, then terrific sustained jamming and wide bridging through the rest that felt pretty solid all the way. Wasn't expecting it this trip but bloody stoked to end on such a high. JH seconded clean, then went up again for the redpoint. What a finish - can almost forgive the atrocious weather and mosquitos. Almost.
	18	★★ Kinkaid - con John Henry, Angela Hewlett	Clásica 20m	★ Buena
How am I feeling? Good. Soft 18, but bloody good second from Angela.
	15	★ The Philanthropist - con John Henry, Angela Hewlett	Clásica 30m	Medio
Final day, warming up, find shade, get something done to salvage the trip. Warmup, feels hard for 15.
Vie 4.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
	17	★ The Only Way To Fly - con John Henry	Clásica 15m	★ Buena
Worthwhile, easier than it looks and maybe not 17, the Mentz/Tempest guide has it at 16.
Vie 4.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area
	10	★★ Xena - con John Henry 1 8 35m escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 9 22m escalada de primero por John Henry 3 5 23m escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 4 10 30m escalada de primero por John Henry	Clásica 110m	★★ Muy buena
Finally, a nice day! Got a bit off route to the Siren P1 ledge, then wound up belaying a bit high on the arete. P4 is the business. Watched a general military training clusterfuck in progress on and above Hot Flap. Somebody is gonna die if they keep that shit up.
Jue 3.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall
	18	★★ Jens Roof - con John Henry	Clásica mixta 30m, 1	★★ Muy buena
An attempt to salvage the grade for the day. Found decent gear on the greasy slab most of the way, forgot to heel hook the roof but grunted through anyway.
Jue 3.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
	18	★★ The Rack - con John Pitcairn	Clásica 13m	★★ Muy buena
Still being spanked by the cold, came out of the jam at top, a bit painful, declined to go back up on lead. And why the hell is the entire lower arete chalked up right next to the bomber crack?
	14	★ Nero - con John Henry	Clásica 13m	★ Buena
Much easier. Still dodging showers.
	16	★ Crucifixion - con John Henry	Clásica 12m	★ Buena
Not the best choice of warmup JH. Awkward to clean and stay on too. We stupidly rapped from above Christian Crack, better to walk through to the other rap anchor.
Mié 2.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall
	17	★ Golliwogs Cakewalk - con John Henry	Clásica 40m	Medio
A step up from JH. No stars for the name. Must lead it sometime, hopefully after it has been renamed.
Mié 2.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
	18	★★ The Stoat Steps Out - con John Henry	Clásica 8m	★ Buena
Was greasing off at the wee sidepull flake but managed to downclimb a little and add more gear just in case. Fun, if bloody short and unforgiving. Downclimbing behind Moby Dick is almost as terrifying.
Mié 2.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
	15	★★ Beautiful Possibilities - con John Henry	Clásica 30m	★★ Muy buena
The slime at the bottom of Jason was just clear enough to gingerly step through. Went off course right around the high grey bulge, a smidge harder, less gear.
Mié 2.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
	17	★ Cruxless Knickers - con John Henry	Clásica 25m	Medio
Very cold morning, late start. Jam school on Necrophiliac for Jonno and John, so did this again, but worse. Forgot my own gear beta.
Mar 1.º Nov 2022 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
	16	★ Labouring the Point - con Grant Johnston	Clásica 90m	★ Buena
Everyone else scarpered as the skies darkened, thought we might sneak one more. Bloody good, not hard if you keep your head together but goes through intimidating terrain. Just rapped off when it hailed heavily on us.
	12	★ Bites in the Pie - con Angela Hewlett, John Henry, Grant Johnston, Jonno Rau	Clásica 10m	★ Buena
A good lead attempt from Angela but seems her fists are quite a bit narrower. I call sandbag anyway.
	15	★★ Agent Orange - con John Henry	Clásica 25m	★★ Muy buena
So let's bump things 3 grades. Really good, a little seep at the roof. Then John led it.
	12	★ Shitty Nappies - con John Henry	Clásica 15m	Medio
JH arrives to more rain and plentiful mosquitos, with mumblings about working up slowly. Drizzle, greasy rock, quite a stiff move getting onto the low ledge/pinnacle thing.
Lun 31.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
	11	★ Lizard Procrastination - con Angela Hewlett 1 6 20m escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 11 20m escalada de primero por Angela Hewlett	Clásica 40m	★ Buena
Rain stopped long enough to run up something late afternoon. I have no memory of this from my first trip 11 years ago. Bottom pitch is trivial, top pitch is good. The ferns in King Rat Gully are extremely well watered and above head height.
Lun 31.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
	20	★★ Pilot Error - con Jonno Rau	Clásica mixta 12m, 1	★ Buena
Haha unsent. Just didn't have the grunt or the will with a cold, but gave it a nudge anyway. Fell onto the bolt a couple of times, gave up, Jonno traversed out and back to clean it. Slunk back to camp in shame, in more rain.
	14	★ Tarzan - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 33m	★★ Muy buena
Some outrageous start move. Linked both pitches, belayed just below top pinnacle for a little shelter.
	10	★★ Mesa	Clásica 33m	★ Buena
Yet more showers, at least this has shelter in the cave. Led and rap-cleaned.
Dom 30.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
	15	★ Mercy - con Jonno Rau, Angela Hewlett	Clásica mixta 16m, 1	★ Buena
Good but schizophrenic. Great jamming into a couple of quite pure slab moves that test your mental flexibility. Walked back down looking at routes, briefly considered stoating, bailed to camp just in time for more bloody rain. Getting a bit demoralised.
	14	★★ Loyalty - con Grant Johnston	Clásica 18m	★★ Muy buena
Seems I've never done it, it's nice. More spotty weather, looking for a cruisy option, we stomped up there and all got lost right in front of the buttress but not seeing it. We also chose the windiest spot around.
Sáb 29.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Hyperbole Buttress
	17	★ Hyperbola - con Jonno Rau	Clásica 13m	★★ Muy buena
Quite the mini epic. On half ropes, easily up to the corner and roof, clipped the old piton (don't), traversed nervily across to the arete and up the first move of the headwall without further gear before realising I was a bit pumped and a fall would produce a horrendous pendulum smash. Reversed all that back down to the bottom of the corner, out to the arete for (not great) gear with the other rope, back in to the corner and through it all again to pull the headwall easily enough. Phew.
Sáb 29.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Bolero Wall
	13	★ Bolero - con Angela Hewlett, Colin	Clásica 10m	★ Buena
11 would indeed be a sandbag. Quite a hard start to reach the upper crack I thought. You'll want a #4. Angela found a better sequence of course. The walk off (right) takes longer than the climb.
Sáb 29.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
	15	★ Monitor - con Grant Johnston 1 15 35m escalada de primero por John Pitcairn 2 14 40m escalada de primero por Grant Johnston 3 12 30m escalada de primero por John Pitcairn	Clásica 110m	★ Buena
A reasonable day but Brolga still a waterfall. Up this instead. Not bad. Two river crossings en route, the black scunge of a Smeagol finish was not at all appealing.
Vie 28.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
	17	★ Cruxless Knickers - con Grant Johnston	Clásica 25m	★ Buena
The crux is getting good gear in high enough. Got up and down to ledge a couple of times doing that before being happy enough to pull above it.
	15	★★ Necrophilliac - con Grant Johnston, Jonno Rau	Clásica 25m	★ Buena
Weather reasonable but inherited Jonno's cold, belay neck headache, took most of the day off. Good lead from Grant.
Jue 27.º Oct 2022 - Arapiles
Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area
	9	★★ Beau Geste P5 - con Grant Johnston 5 9 50m escalada de primero por Grant Johnston	Clásica 50m	Medio
P5 for exit. A touch more rain and wait, a near solo from Grant, more rain at topout, quite a lot of wind, a long slippery walk down.

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Ascensiones en Australia por John Pitcairn

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