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Very hard wandery face-climbing above a sucking void. Spaced (but safe) bolts and insecure moves will keep you gripped the entire way.

If it all turns pear-shaped, you can either climb out via Freedom Ring (substantially easier climbing) or ascend the fixed abseil line (if you left it in situ as per below).

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of Damascus). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Damascus (P4). Continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, lead or self-belay across to the rings 3m further right (top belay of Damascus P1).

  1. 15m (24) 7 bolts - From the belay at the end of Damascus Pitch 1, traverse right and up small right-facing flake with very bouldery moves at the start (consider pre-clipping the first 2 or 3 bolts!), then easy moves trending right to ledge belay.

  2. 35m (28) 13 bolts - Up extremely sustained thin and dynamic face, with a long and very demanding crux to gain cruisy flake feature. Steel yourself for an easier but rather gripping finish. Semi-hanging belay.

  3. 20m (22) 8 bolts - Step left off the belay, and traverse to join the end of Damascus P3 (be careful -no additional bolts). Link this into Damascus P4 to reach the top.

Historia de la vía

24 Nov 2019Primera ascensión: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson, Heath Black, Will Vidler & Stephen Varney

Advertencias

Ubicación

Lat/Long.: -33.57572, 150.33878

Referencias de nivel de dificultad

28 Grado de dificultad
29 [27 - 30] + grAId

Ética

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

heredado de Blue Mountains

Estacionalidad

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Estacionalidad

Calidad

Megaclásica
Clásico
Muy buena
Buena
Medio
Ni te molestes
Basura

La calidad general 100 de las 1 valoraciones.

Tipos de ascensiones

Punto rojo 1
Intento 3

Palabras clave en los comentarios

great super good hard crux solid face reachy

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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