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Birrabang Walls

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Fotos: 11
  • Ascensiones: 3

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

Technically Birrabang Walls are the cliffs opposite Dalpura Head on other side of Birrabang creek. Most routes described here are someways further south.

Restricciones

Please refrain from leaving Cairns or other markers. Retreat would be an intense affair via Burrakorain Flat then up to Mt Vic Falls not before hours of Lawyer Vines followed by Permian sediment choss-a-lanches so take care. (intrepid hikers feel free to update with better bail out options)

Acceso

A 1.5 hr trudge , mostly untracked though small trails can be picked up between the saddles. Walk 20 minutes as for Yileen canyon access then as that trail descends down and left break trail right over ironstone boulders (untracked) and utilise the two saddles due west that are apparent on topo map. It is best to employ a topographic map and a compass for this purpose. After first saddle take note of termite mound just shy of the top of ridge as this is a useful tool to indicate saddle apon return. Take a left on ridge after the second saddle (at comparatively large scribbly-gum trees) and weave through the heath and mallee staying ontop of ridge until a very large low rounded hill appears on the valleys edge down and right. meander along the top of this (slightly to the west) avoiding any side gullys until approx. 20m from edge. find a way down the North edge keeping behind a few outcrops until the rap anchor for Pitch 4 of Roslyns , located near a flat platform at edge , around the front of the pagoda. Or continue hiking down then back around left onto large ledge for the "F.I.R' rap or continue even further down to the large rock platform beside small canyon for rap point of 'Gut Feelin'. For this abseil, when on large platform look down and left for rap chain above large crack. Shimmy down slopey scoop on left of platform to grassy ledge and rap. Climbing with shoes helps on "gut feelin" as route tops out someways back up the hill.

Ética heredado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía

Rap 35m straight down to pitch one top anchor then another 30m rap to base of corner using teatree to keep close to corner on second rap. , first ascent fixed a 40 static and climbed w/ 60m single.

  1. 30m , 20. Hard polished stemming and slabbing. Bring comfy shoes and flexible limbs.

  2. 25m , 12. Cruisy horizontal pitch. Do not link this into next pitch.

  3. 20m , 24. More horizonal traversing. Delicate line of pockets and crimps to an intense technical reachy span sequence followed immediately by pumpy horizontal sloper campusing , move fast! , then up to 3UBB. Would be a tough onsight.

  4. 20m , 15. Up to bolt then into the caterpillar trap and grovel your way through the horizontal. Stay deep for first 5 meters. Like doing a hundred pushups. Keep a keen eye out after about 12m for a small dab of red glue near edge. Then poke your head out and there is a ubolt right above glue. Clip this then emerge via jugs above and continue across to belay in a spectacular position.

  5. 35m , 23. Up long commiting pitch with excellent climbing on good rock. This pitch is the reason your here!

  6. 20m , 22 , A one move wonder-lunge at second bolt then left on jugs to some pockets and continue left up some average rock to comfortable belay.

  7. Hike left past bolt up to big tree. 15 Short quickdraws is plenty. Given the hardest pitch is horizontal, prussics are advised. Half the belays are semi-hanging/or small arse sized.

PAL: Eww, Hugh Sutherland & Nathan Smith

Equip: Eww

PA: Eww & Nathan Smith

Wall gets Sun between 1-2pm. The route you rap down to start Roslyns. A great middle pitch and a fiesty crux pitch. A squillion bolts. Walk down to ledge at base of Roslyns pitch 4 or rap from very top as is described in 'Roslyns'. Rap from single u-bolt above large tilted block 20m down scrubby slope to top anchor. Rap 25m kicking out to next rap station on left. Rap either 45 to start ledge or build rap point with chordelette @ 30m where the two routes split (swing right) at ubolt and FH.

  1. 18m , 22 , First pitch of Roslyns. Hardest straight off belay.

  2. 30m , 22, Up through great variety of holds and a reachy crux from a restful position. Sustained on nice rock. 14 draws.

  3. 25m , 24, Direct up mostly jugs to some tough sequences leading through steep terrain. Keep your eyes open on the black headwall and then easy to top.

  4. Optional finish up last pitch of Roslyns or walk off.

PAL: Eww & Gee Rad, 17 Sep 2018

The route on large streaked red face a few hundred meters east. Aproached by turning left and following ridge after first saddle of approach. Best to bring a 50m rap line and leave fixed at top. Rap 50m from top rap point to triple bolt belay on ledge beneath rooflet. Rap 25m from here clipping quite a few bolts on your left until you can get to top of small elevated pinacle/platform. Single U belay.

  1. 25m , 23 , A very good and sustained pitch. A dyno guards the lower wall. Blow it , pull up and find the good hold , come down, re-tie and enjoy the rest.

  2. 30m , 26 , A slow burner with a good variety of moves culminating in a powerful cross from a shallow mono/crimp.

  3. 30m , 24 , Tricky traverse with some hidden holds to a crux move then fairly sustained climbing easing a bit through top half.

PAL: Eww & hugh sutherland, 2019

Top of climb is located behind small outcrop next to flat rock platform as is pictured in a topo pic. then rap down 'Future in Runes'.

  1. 18mtrs. Grade 21 , 9 Bolts

  2. 35mtrs. Grade 22 , up and right eventually arriving at spectacular hanging arette, 13 Bolts

  3. 20mtrs. Grade 21 ,up face to rooflet , around this and back left then up. 11 Bolts

  4. 20mtrs. Grade 22 , good little pitch with a different style of climbing. 10 Bolts

Equip: Eww

PAL: Eww & Hugh Sutherland, 30 En 2018

PA: J Croker & W Stebler

PA: H Brotchie & J Croker

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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