The vertical routes on the lower left half of this wall get sun from 8.30am in winter, more than an hour earlier than the Main Wall warmups.
This crag is in a National Park. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED, simple as that. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff things up for the rest of us; so just don't bring your dog. Do not drive down the dirt road even if the gate is open - this road is only used my management vehicles (Nat Parks and the company that services the high voltage powerlines). Camping also is not allowed.
©From the base of the ropes of the main walk-in beneath the power lines, head north (away from Main Wall) and follow the base of the cliffs for about 100m past a few cairns, descending into a sandy cave. This cave has the harder right side steep routes of Bull Crag. For the easier vertical routes you need to down climb to the ledge 8m below. Not too hard even with a pack on, and assisted by a fixed knotted rope (dubious as at 2022), but with bad fall potential, take care. Once down the rope the wall is just a few meters further along.
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.
Autor(es): Simon Carter
Fecha: 2019
número ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Autor(es): Simon Carter
Fecha: 2019
número ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
James en ★ Bulls Eye 20 - James onsighting Bull Eye
Mark Betts en ★★ Walter Mitty 19 - This follows on from a very interesting start, watch out for those fingertips
Mark Betts en ★★ Bull Dozer 20 - Another difficult start, clipping the first bolt
JOHNNYBRAVO en ★ Red Bull 25 - Jeff at the anchors for the flash
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