Por favor, ten en cuenta que utilizamos cookies para mejorar el uso de esta página web. Al continuar navegando por la página, aceptas Política de uso de theCrag.
Estoy de acuerdo
Very thin and technical. Used to have only 2 carrots. The line of rings beneath EW, joining Exhibition Wall halfway. The retrobolt still retains the need for small slcd's.
Definitely perhaps ... A far more sociable version of the route.
Alternate easier highball start to AoR via SF on right side of wall.
Up as for SF to break and traverse left to good gear at left of break as for first gear on AoR. Continue up following breaks then up.
Cams and wires. Optional sling.
Start pretty much as for SF, on face left of SF mark avoiding fragile flake arête as much as possible.
Get good first gear on left at first main break. At second break instead of heading R on bolts (SF) head up to cam pod and up following obvious crease. Climbing eases towards top.
Either runout or various snall/medium RPs or similar and medium and small cams. Offsets in both may help.
Route and gear placements sussed out on abseil, and climb TR'd a number of times before finally being lead. Feel free to improve on style but be careful!
Note: 2015 BM guide topo is incorrect. The line shown for SF is actually this line.
Up face, avoiding rather fragile thin flake edge, to break and first gear then continue up to next break before heading right and up following carrots with good #000 C3's instead Up to to break and gear; old school opposed wires or even just a hex. Continue up using as many small brass nuts as you can place to avoid needing the top two bolts.
Has be done just on gear as described after gear inspection and rehearsal, but feel free to improve on this. Bolts are in fine condition (2016) and this climb should not ever be retro bolted.
Note: Topo in 2015 BM guide is wrong, see 2010 edition instead.
Start as for Age of Rubber.
Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout.
Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.