★★★ Free Reign 28

An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.

1. 22, 30m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door at small right facing corner 30 meters below the second abseil down ‘Comet ramp’. Beautiful laybacking for 8 meters then follow feature rightward under yellow roof. Belay at 4BB. (small-mid wires, small to large cams).

2. 28, 30m. Powerful dynamic climbing past 3 fixed hangers out to and up hanging arête, then step right into next crack system at height of roof, follow this for about 10m until a finger crack leads left to belay stance 1BB and #3 Camalot. (small – mid cams).

3. 23, 25m. Step left into twin seams following a few mashies, continue up for about 6 meters until it becomes possible to reach left to good holds leading directly leftward 5 meters to big left facing flakes. Continue up flakes to several fixed hangers and thinner moves. Belay at stance to the right with small – mid cams. (mid – large cams and some fixed bits and bobs).

4. 28, 30m. Follow easy crack for about 5 meters then step left into seam with fixed RP and small wire placement, continue straight up to two consecutive left leading flakes (fixed hanger). Delicate moves left into crack, up a few meters then left again to fixed hanger. Left again to crack then up to a 2BB at small stance. (small wires and small cams)

5. 27, 40m. Head right and up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots. (Small – mid cams).

6. 28, 30m. ‘Piton Roof ‘ Insecure climbing straight up small yellow right facing corner to roof past small wires and cams. Two novel pitons protect thin moves rightward under roof to powerful crack and layback over the lip. Continue 7m to 4BB. (micro wires and small - mid cams)

7. 22, 30m. As for Rats in Paradise. Follow crack as it transition to offwidth then back to flake. Reach left as flake ends to belay on small ledge at 2BB. (mid – large cams)

8. 20, 40m. Elegant offwidthing up and left past 2 fixed hangers then straight up more offwidth to topout at Wilkinsons Lookout.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.