Vías en The Gorge - South Side para grado seleccionado

Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires.

To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts.

P.1. Start up easy chimney with loose blocks at top, travers L passing a bolt before stopping at the vertical crack (semi hanging belay).P.2. up crack (seeps after rain) to finger crack in corner and R curving crack to finish.

Alternatively start up Abracadabra, then move R and finish up P.2 of BB. this allows you to do the route in 1 pitch.

A new bolt with rap ring (added in 2023) now augments the single old carrot and dubious peg that formed the belay at the end of p2.

From the 2 carrot belay, traverse left (looking in) and down to good ledges before moving up past a carrot and onto the arete. Up the arete past a few more bolts and a few cam placements.

Variant start to Wicked Solitaire. Climb the arete past 3 bolts.

Wide crack/chimney R of WS. Rap in towards waterfall from WS rap point.

Up chimney, move Across into corner then up crack to belay on ledge. Scramble up L to top.

Abseil in about 40m to a ledge via either:

a. the flake adhering to the slab some 80m south of the waterfall, or

b. a pair of ringbolts ?50m south of the waterfall. As you are coming down you will need to walk left to reach the right hand end of the ledge from which the route starts.

Can be done as one pitch.

1. Climb the corner that meets with an arete after 5m. Scant protection is available to gain the slab, then go up and left (avoid following the main corner up and right), over a small roof, then up to the main roof.

2. Swing steeply up around the roof at the leftmost of the two easiest possibilities in this area (3m left of the FH of Commander Dildo); the 2006 guidebook suggests that RPs protect these moves, but the gear is better than that. Follow the flake to the top.

Hand crack below bell boys bereavement. rap 100m down from the top of LGL to the base of this crack.