Nodos en Butterfly Gorge

All Trad.

Like its much celebrated, almost namesake the Totem Pole, this pillar that rises out of the first pool makes for some very spectacular climbing up its one route: Another Free Route. Escaping this pinnacle requires either a very brave and stupid leap across to the mainland or a very delicate downclimb, wide step across then up climb. It is the obvious pillar on the left side

m the platform just at water level clim the from face of this pillar through technical, dicky and barely protected move at 1/3 height. Steadily up to the rooflet and through the left side near small tree. Traverse slightly right and finish up.

After swimming across the first pool, you will pass through a narrow channel with a pillar on your right and spectacular walls on the left(Gates of Mordor) Continue up onto a rocky slope ahead and look to your left. A beautiful wall with a number of crack systems there. I have only heard of one climb that was done here.

Sounds like a sea of whingeing to me, it is the crack with some chockstones in it. Looks like fine rock, if a little unprotected at the start.

Up all flakes and top out

The crack to the right of the flakes

The obvious off width crack on the Left side of the top pool (before the 2 small ones leading to Cro Magnon). You will need to pack raft gear to access small belay ledge above water line. Climbing is fun and secure, #5 cam recommended to get through the roof.

Looking across to your right you will see a large wall again with much potential with a shady gully on its right. A nice looking buttress is right of this gully.

Look for featured face on the right side of the gorge, to the left of a major gully. Climb the right side of this face following a vague crack line. Rap off fig tree. Gear: Heaps of small wires and cams up to 0.4".

Lovely and long route (for the top end) following the obvious crack system on this buttress. This climb offers very varied climbing and is a great adventure route. At the time of writing it still has only seen a single ascent. An easy walk off to the right and down the gully completes a very satisfying outing.

Another nice climb that broaches the slightly bulging buttress to the right of the gully. Looks thinnish for a 13 Mr Hart!

Beyond the last pools ypu will come to some high walls on both the right and left sides of the gorge. Only the right side has been climbed as these walls are less broken looking. A very large pinnace dominates this area, this is the end point for the climb Cro Magnon

Obvious left facing right angle cornerabout 15m right of Cro Magnon. Chimney the first section then step out and stem as the crack narrows. One of the cleanest and nicest chimneys around.

Obvious pillar past second pool - Stella Belay Platform for a classic NT Picture. Recommend rapping off top using ~2meter sling around large rock.

Follow the obvious crack on the west side of pinnacle. Right of cro magnon. Shady until midday. Crux is thin moves onto the false platform near top. Double rack of cams recommended.

This is the bail line for False Summits, rather then heading through overhang/crack you can bail to R up inbetween pillar and main wall.