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Turtle Creek Beach & Ratchet Bay

Acceso: Roadworks, parking, and range night closures

Road works are now set up at the regular parking spot to access to Turtle Creek Beach, as well as multiple points south of this toward Slip Cliff Point. The range will also be closed from 9pm-4am each night heading in both directions starting south of Turtle Cove Resort until at least late July. Alternative parking is required, as well as an eye on the time if doing night sessions in general area. Updated May 2024.

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Creó hace 13 días

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

Boulders are on beach and on north and south headlands of this beach.

Restricciones heredado de Cairns

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Acceso

Park at pullover bay located at -16.631129, 145.552485 (can turn into Turtle Cove Resort and do a U-Turn to then drive south to the pullover bay). Walk track that starts just 3-5m north of south guard rail to the beach. Steep track, be sure to follow it where it darts and not over any cliff edges. Track ends through the scrub onto the beach.

Otherwise park at -16.631940, 145.553473 for the less steep and shorter secondary track that takes you to the south end of the same beach.

Walk north to headland and follow around to large steep boulders for the burly classic stellar test pieces like Rocket Man etc. Some more rocks stretch to beach with the LGBT resort.

If going past the LGBT resort stay to the beach and away from the area that is private property. Though this area could be better accessed by walking south from the southern carpark option of Pretty Beach

Ética heredado de North Wangetti

Clean up wherever you go, take your rubbish, or any you find out with you. Brush chalk. So many of these areas are absolutely pristine and we should all make an effort to keep it that way.

Clean and brush but don't destroy vegetation. Avoid steel wire brushes if possible, a good majority of the rock in Cairns will disintegrate using one of these.

Brush tick marks off before you leave, please don't chip holds, and do minimise contrived routes.

GEOTAGGING - PLEASE GEOTAG! For any route you create, or know is hard to find add in the Lat and Long in the route details so it shows on the map. Finding routes in the rainforest for example is hard.

Minimise route beta in descriptions to ease onsight attempts.

Etiquetas

Vías

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Grado Vía

Sit start left hand side. Work up series of crimps and a side pull mid way. Balancey and some holds may pop.

Located near end of track to access beach.

Sit start on pocket and arete, up arete before mantling at apex.

Start on jugs, straight up.

Sit start on jug.

Start on good hold, straight through rooflet via some shouldery moves.

Start with left trending rails down low and climb up arete.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

Sit with obvious jug, move through slots and interesting moves and into the flakiness (extra flakey, be wary)

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

Sit start on large sloping rail. Make a BIG move into vertical slot and top out to the right.

Sit start on large sloping rail. Big move to good edge and pockets, through to a blank topout.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

A nice traverse beginning far L end of flat wall, heading to the tip of RH end. Give it a V1 for the sit start on the arete.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 En 2018

Sit start on obvious edge in middle of flat wall. Move up and top out directly or finish as for Warmup on RH end.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

Sit with pair of juggy sidepulls. Up through edge on face and top out directly or as for Breaching.

Kieran Pates

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

Start sitting and low on good low jug. Move into smaller holds and big move to good high edge and top out.

Cameron Whycherley

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 En 2018

Start low matched on good jug on dark face. Move near directly up through series of crimps on face and good edge (beware - likely to break soon).

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018

Sit start on the right of "24 slab" and on the left of "its aeret" in the middle of the boulder. Work your way straight up through a series of decent holds. The spice of this climb really only comes from the height. Great for an easy high ball.

Stand start (sit could go) and follow blunt arete up directly to good high edge and through the blank top (keep an eye out for a cheeky shallow mono). Add the headwall for a little extra headiness, or top out left at break.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018

Sit start to the left "plenty of pockets" you will see a nice side pull. Work your way up that until it stops half way up then finish by topping out the same way as plenty of pockets.

Sit start on the right hand side of "It's Arete" work your way up the series of pockets and jugs finish with a somewhat exposed overahanging top out. Great warm up with a little bit of height.

Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls.

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018

Sit start low on really good jugs. Work your way straight up following the seams left to right (all jugs). A fun head game and high ball.

Rising traverse to the left starting off the same sit start as "Get Your Head Right". Follow jug rail to the left until it thins out and head straight up, feet are a bit scarce on the traverse

PA: Nick Murphy, 2 Abr 2020

Equip: Nick Murphy, 2 Abr 2020

Balancy Start. Undercling pocket and sloper on slab above overhang. To great sidepull and right hand 2 finger pocket for topout.

PA: Simon Aebli, 15 Abr 2017

Start as for Bellyflop but head directly up to large right feature.

Sit start under prow with pocket and jug. Move up and left, before bearing down on a sharp crimp on the face and going out to a slot. Finish up and right.

Sit start in hole, climb out and left through scoopy sloper. Finish straight up using namesake hold.

Start to the far left matched on blocky feature with a high heel, traverse right making for a top out left of Rocket man.

Kieran Pates

PA: Kieran Pates, 5 Feb 2018

Sit start matched with obvious low flake. Move up into sloped rail and head up and right following seam, with crimp out right.

Jared Tyerman Kieran Pates Arlen Breeze

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018

Start as for TAT. Traverse low and downwards to reach the starting flake of Falcon 9. Finish up Falcon 9 either via the right hand crimp (as per normal) or crossing through with the right hand into the undercut pocket on the sloping rail/crack (easier).

PA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Jul 2019

Match start on low obvious slopey horizontal rail, moving directly up through the tension on slopey pockets to good holds up high and mantle finish.

Cameron Whycherley Kieran Pates Jared Tyerman Nick Springall

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 10 Feb 2018

Start low on right undercling and small left crimp. Move up to the sloper and finish as for Rocket Man.

Callum Mather

PA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020

Start as for Rocket Man, get to mid-height pinch then go through right diagonal slot and good upper lip hold. Mantle directly up and over.

Jared Tyerman

PA: Jared Tyerman, 19 Mayo

Start heeling nubbin with low hands on friction sloper and pocketed sloper. Shoot across slanted arete, traverse, and finish as per Rocket Man.

Jared Tyerman

PA: Jared Tyerman, 15 Mayo

Starting as low as you can go on slopers, traverse up arete on central boulder. Move through to pair of beautiful edges before topping out on thinning crimps. Style points for the traverse!

PA: Cameron Wycherley, 7 Abr 2018

Start on 2 good holds. High feet and big pounce to semi juggy gaston. Work to chossy looking block then big movements to circle pocket. Match to jump down.

Can start 2 feet on block/s for easier start / to practise move.

Straight up the hanging face on crimps from a stand start.

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Mar 30 Mayo
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