Vías como clásica en Rosa Gully

Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam).

Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.

Sea Level Traverse - Rosa To Ron’s (2km, Grade 17?) This section is arguably the most classic moderate adventure route in NSW. A great day out requiring great, but not perfect swell conditions.

From the North: - Cross the gap between Rosa Gully and Diamond Bay, one slippery section, nothing too tricky if the swell is low. - Traverse the slippery slot under the log of death (a couple of carrots), after walking through the cave on the other side, a small 6m rap is required to gain the lower ledge. - This lower ledge system will take you on a tour through time under bow wall crag. Mike laws artwork can be seen winding its way up the blankest, chosseist sections of rock. Crux 5 - This ledge system finishes under prowess. Either use the bolts here to gain the ledge then rap back down off one to the other side. Alternatively, whip out the trad gear and easily traverse this bit (provided its not soaked by the waves). - The simple walking tour continues from here past three cathedral like cave systems, some slippery traversing required but nothing too hard. - After about 300m, you’ll arrive under sanctum main buttress, and the bulk of the climbing in front of you Crux 4 - Scramble around the back of the sea cave and climb the little head wall on the far side. Traversing the ledge 5m up is much easier than saying low. - from here you have a couple options, either blast up the easy looking corner crack (grade 16 with a very hard grassy topout) or go south a couple more meters and rap down (needs bolts) to sea level again to wrap around to the south end of the big buttress you’re on. The crack on this far side looks much nicer to climb. A third option is to sidle around to the front of this buttress via a sandy ledge about 4-5m above the ledge you're on. its a bit heady on shit gear but the fastest way past this buttress. - Both options land you on a big ledge system. Traverse south about 15m and either rap 6m down to the lower ledge or climb 2m up to the higher option. This higher option needs bolts for a big 30m rap about 100m south, wereas the lower option can be abseiled with a 25m rope off an old fishermans spike. - Now that these paths have reconvened, scramble south for another 80m along a skinny ledge, building a belay off the old fisherman spike. It’s probably worth doing a micro 5m long pitch here and building a much better belay off the stainless spikes at the better ledge. - This next pitch goes at around grade 14 with bomber gear and great, balancy moves. Crux 3 - Another 100m of easy walking gets you to the last crux of this section of the traverse, buruwang main wall. - Theres a couple options here, either climb any of the routes that will get you up to the higher ledge (easiest is probably: Just one more bump, 12m, a pretty committing grade 22 mixed route), or… in the spirit of seacliff traversing, don’t go up, go sideways. This traversing pitch isn’t too hard, but is very pumpy, probably around grade 19, resting on gear makes it a lot easier, but it will give you a cardio workout nonetheless. - once you’re past buruwang main wall, its all easy walking and scrambling all the way to the mattings descent (huge fixed ropes). Exiting here makes for a great day out and a fairly easy 25min walk back to the diamond bay.

From the South: Reverse the above beta

Check your rope length - might require a 70m.

Mixed climb linkup. Joins the start of Pornflakes into Hourglass using the succulent horizontal hand crack. Climb up Pornflakes for 2 bolts and head left along crack which takes small to medium cams. Make sure to place enough gear to keep you off the deck as you are not high up! Strenously join Hourglass at the third bolt and rejoice as you clip bolts to the top.

FA was done as a pinkpoint.

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. Below the obvious crack in the middle of the orange wall, about 6m left of the ladder. An enjoyable and technical little outing, but unfortunately the bolts are pretty far gone (for a change!).

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 1m right of SS. Head up and slightly right past break and corroded BRs. Continue to roof and finish up cracks.

Mike Law 1980s

Nice rock and gear. Start below the corner 5m right of TC and 3m left of ladder.

1. 15m (16) Up the corner (sling runner possible), onto 2nd big ledge and continue up cracks (crux) heading left at top (avoid the super easy corner on left). Lower off at 15m

2. 30m (15) Not worth doing this pitch, Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

Has a monster traverse along the lip of a roof. 3 good trad pitches and a wandery one.

1. 15m Start up Tourist Route, and then step right to crack on lip and up to belay on 2 rings.

2. 25m (16) Up wall past 2 bolts to mantel (little cams on right) and up to ledge (bolt to protect second). Walk left 10m and up tricky corner to belay at first step, 6m up. (There are highline anchors on top of the next block)

3. 20m (19) Traverse right 15m along fist sized horizontal (many cams) above space to skyline, then up little corner and bolt to mantel at more highline anchors. Streno.

4. 10m (19) walk up to bulge behind. Start right of fallen boulders. Up into 'hook' and up, right 1.5m to only finishing hold. Streno

The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...

Climbs the rightmost of the 3 cracks through the roof. Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB), or traverse left to loweroff on Tourist Route.

1. 10m Climb face crack 10m R of the ladder. Tricky first move to good wire. A nice pitch of 17

2. 12m Stick clip bolt then up corner, good hand sized cam on right arete at top, then left to lower off.

On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 40 more years of weathering!

1. 20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).

2. 20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.

Trad first pitch, great rock and a bit punchy. Walk around at low tide, or rap down from ledge straight below Obscurity. Start just left of a finger undercling flake (A Certain Flare).

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave

1. 15m (18) Up ramp , step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge all Ubolts now.

2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1970's

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. About 3m right of KC.

1. 40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).

2. 30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.

Mikl Law 1980's