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Malabar Todos Búlder 38 vías en sector

38
BLDV
V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4

Estacionalidad

E
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J
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D

Descripción

Collection of easy climbs in a beautiful location. Some shade until early arvo. Climbs all stay pretty dry except in large swell.

Climbs described as you get to them from the beach following the shoreline.

Restricciones heredado de New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Acceso

Park at the East end of Fishermans Rd. The sector with The Prown is directly below the carpark (down the ramp turn right), the slab sector is a 200m walk along the shoreline towards the ocean (down the ramp and straight ahead) and the sector with Alladin (nicest) is another 50m along. Approach can give you wet feet in high tide if you walk in from the beach.

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Grado Vía

The prown sector Volver a contenidos

Just below the car park – walk down the boat ramp and turn right (towards the beach) or walk in from the beach. This sector is a bit wet at peak tide.

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2
V0 Waterever Búlder 4m

Knob to top.

3
V0 Somefin Búlder 4m

Undercling start

4
V2 Nofin Búlder 4m

Left of wet streak. Friction undercling start

5
V2 Dolfin Búlder 4m

Right of wet streak. Hop up to start edge under white patch and topout.

6
V2 Flukes Búlder 4m

Stand start at flakes.

7
V1 ★ The Prown Búlder 4m

Standstart

tidal dependence Volver a contenidos

These climbs are just left (beachside) of the boat ramp. Climbable only at low tide – at high tide the boulder are half underwater!

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9
V0 New moon Búlder

Accessible at low tide only. Stand start from block

10
V2 ★★ Lunatic Búlder

Only at low tide. Stand start at layback and scoop, delicate move up and left and topout. Careful of sandstone choss at the very top, can bail by traversing left 1 meter.

pre-slabs Volver a contenidos

Pre-slabs are 150 meters towards the ocean form the boat ramp. At high tide you may have scramble to the high track and scramble back down. Find the 90 degree block, the pre-slabs and the overhang are just in front of it.

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12
V1 ★ Jam Slab Búlder 4m

Two solid hand jams in the overhanging crack then fight your way past the Westringia. Absolutely no slab engagement but you might want to tape up for this shredder.

PA: Graham Dowden, 30 Mayo 2017

13
V0+ Unslab Búlder 4m

Where the legs ends, up the obvious crack. No stars!

PA: Patrick Burr

14
V2 ★ De-slab Búlder 4m

Follow the shallow weakness trending rightwards. Arete/crack on the right it right out! Double top-out for good measure.

15
V0+ Layback slab Búlder 4m

Trad-like corner

90-degree block Volver a contenidos

The following climbs are on the 90 degree block. The vertical flakes look very delicate but are surprisingly strong. Still, best to avoid the thinnest flakes or those that are not beaten by the sun.

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17
V0- ★ Multifacet Búlder 3m

Straight up the agonisingly thin facets on the west side of '90-degree block'. The entire difficult of the climb lies in not breaking any facets.

PA: Graham Dowden, 30 Mayo 2017

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18
V1 ★ Normal Búlder 3m

The seaside overhung arete. Hard sit start on vertical holds, straight up the arete.

PA: Patrick Burr

19
V0 Perpendicular Búlder

Half a meter right of normal. Stand start on vertical holds, straight up.

PA: Patrick Burr

20
V1 ★ Orthogonal Búlder 3m

Start inside the scoop/cave, swing out to jugs and then up

PA: Patrick Burr

21
V0 ★ Pitagora Búlder

Start as for orthogonal, but then keep on traversing right to easier topout.

PA: Patrick Burr

22
V2 ★★ Half a pie Búlder

Traverse counterclockwise the overhanging half of the 90 degree block. The good bit starts seaside, 1 meter left off normal.

PA: Patrick Burr

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23
V2 ★ Limpet Búlder

Traverse overhang from right to left along the lip. Could add a top out at the end at V3ish.

PA: Patrick Burr, 28 Mayo 2017

Slabs Volver a contenidos

Around the corner, 20 m form the 90 degree block.

25
V3 ★★ Rosso malpelo Búlder

Red thin slab left of sandy white block. 5 meters left of red slab.

PA: Patrick Burr

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26
V3 ★★ Red Slab Búlder 3m

Start on the shallow hole. Straight up to sloper rail. Jump off or traverse out left or right.

27
V1 Green Slab Búlder 3m

Just left of the seeping streak. Touch greens at top. Climb down or jump.

28
V0 Wet slab Búlder 3m

If not wet, provides easy descent for RS and GS.

29
V2 ★ Black Slab Búlder 3m

just right of seeping streak. Start on hole on right and move to hole on left (reachy) and up.

Alladin and Odin Volver a contenidos

50 meters towards the ocean again. Fun powerful moves. Some of the sitstart rail may still crumble off, but most of it should be good now.

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31
V1 Lamp smoke Búlder 3m

Sitstart up zigzag streak to sloper rail

32
V0 Alladin Búlder 4m

Straight up. Finish on high jug.

33
V1 Genie Búlder 3m

Right tending iron band. Standstart. No stars

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34
V2 ★ Vicky Búlder 3m

Left corner sitstart.

35
V1 ★★ The Viking Búlder 3m

sitstart left of hole. Straight up.

36
V2 ★★ Odin's Eye Búlder 3m

Sitstart under big hole. Top just left of hole w knee bar

37
V3 ★★ Wodan Búlder 3m

sitstart little flake. Tad left and up

38
V1 ★ Frigg Búlder 3m

Right corner. Sitstart

39
V3 ★ Thor Búlder

Traverse from Frigg to Vicky.

40
V3 ★ Dream pipes Búlder

Traverse from Vicky to Frigg

Malabar Rock Pool Volver a contenidos

At the south side of the bay where the Malabar rock pool is there are a few good climbs.

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42
V3 ★ Stay off the Bench Búlder 4m

Sit start. Take care with the mantle and the bench.

43
V4 ★★★ Off The Hook Búlder 4m

Sit start. Up past the towel hooks.

44
V2 OW Búlder 4m

Stand start about 4m left of Off The Hook, about 1m left of the white rock, where OW was carved in the rock. Up to the hole in the black rock and topout.

The wall near the pool shower is great for kids to try some bouldering.

46
V2 The Hook Búlder

Overhang start, climb over edge to top. 100m from boat ramp

PA: Stathi, 2 Dic 2018

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¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Sydney Bouldering Guide 1st Edition 2023

Autor(es): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Fecha: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

-5% Comprar
ⓘ
Sydney Climbing Guide Selected Crags

Autor(es): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Fecha: 2021

número ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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ⓘ

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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V2 ★★ Lunatic

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The Hook V2 - TheHookUnderside.JPG

Graham Dowden en ★★ Red Slab V3 - Malabar-RedSlab.jpg

Graham Dowden en ★ Multifacet V0- - Malabar-Multifacet.jpg

The Hook V2 - TheHook.JPG

Mié 21 Jun
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