Nodo |
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Ebor Gorge
Lots of crack and aretes |
First Breakaway
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First Breakaway |
Right of the lookout
Right when looking up at the cliff. Access from the descent track to the west or rap off the big tree just next to the lookup. |
18
Nought
Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR. Belay right back on trees. |
13
Biscuit
Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought. Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top. |
17
★ Rolling Stones
Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney. Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top. |
18
★ Little Wonder
‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short. Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner. Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish. |
14
Fruit Loops and Frosties
Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’. Up crack to top |
16
Paranoid Primadona
Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’. Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width. |
16
Boulder
Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’. Up the off width crack to top. |
15
★ Seizure
Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’. A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack. |
13
Gung Ho
Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’. Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner. |
15
Milkshake
Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’. Fingery start then up crack. |
17
★ The Joker
Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’. Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?) |
20
★ Bash Street
Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’. Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it. |
19
★ Brijit
Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks. The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade. Up corner with incipient crack. |
17
★ Polynesian Lady
Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’. Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top. |
16
★ Caballero
Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof. Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top |
20
★★ Bombay Duck
A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982. Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’. Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’. |
15
★ The Removalist
Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal. Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.
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20
★ Cheap Vendetta
Start: As for ‘The Removalist’. Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner. Follow crack/corner through small roof to top. |
23
★★ Chocolate Barbarian
The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’. Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top. |
Under the lookout
The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them! Also rubbish dropped from the lookout tends to accumulate here, please take out anything you find. |
22
★★ Dead Calm
Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête. Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings. |
20
★ Pretty Vacant
Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’. Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm. |
18
★ The Fat Shiela
Better than it looks. Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’. Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces. |
20
★★ Sucking Faces
A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic. Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’. Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits. |
15
Pylarox
Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks. The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move. |
Left of the lookout |
23
★★ Power Play
Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’. Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs. |
18
★ Affection Injection
Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’. Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top. |
20
Blinky Bill
Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’. Up hand jam to off width crack. |
16
Hot Seat
Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’. Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section. |
17
★ Hobson's Choice
Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’. Hand jams to offwidth to top. |
19
★★ Blitzkrieg Bop
Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’. Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above. |
22
★ Chemical Warfare
Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’. Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge. |
17
★ Rubber Ball
Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’. Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top. |
19
★★ Narcissus
Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’. Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section. |
22
★★ Supermouse
Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986. Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’. Up the thin crack in the corner. |
Left of Firestorm
The white gum tree on the top of the cliff which is grown into the fence is directly above 'Firestorm' and a convenient rap anchor. |
17
★★ Firestorm
Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’. Hand jam crack with tricky finish. |
19
★ Goose n' Off
Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’. Up crack then under cling left. |
21
★★ Headbanger
Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’. Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find). |
21
★★ Tough Customer
Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’. Up the crack. |
16
The Plaquet
Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’. Up the wide crack |
17
Wake in Fright
Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’. Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge. |
21
★★ Dream of the Devil
Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête. Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find). |
17
Badarse
Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks. |
16
★ Squelch The Magic Dragon
A two-pitch wonder.... Starts 5m's R of the yellow rock close to the falls. Up potentially damp black crack to large vegetated ledge then up obvious short corner crack. |
20 M1
Sundown
Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986. Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall. 4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top. |
Lower buttress |
9
Blackberry Nip
Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway. Up crack. |
17
Mange
Unknown details, mentioned in 'Screamer' mag issue 9, 1981 |
Second Breakaway
National Park |
Second Breakaway |
The leftmost few routes are best accessed from the upstream gully and traversing in
The leftmost few routes are best accessed from the upstream gully and traversing in |
16
Old Punks and Young Hippies
Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched. Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top. |
12
Retired Hippies and Young Punks
National Park |
21
★★ Unknown bolted roof
National Park |
4
Touched
Some people will do anything to see their name in print! Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’. Up twin cracks and mank. |
20
Sex and Intrigue
Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’. Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back |
16
Little Shop of Horrors
Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman’. Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection. |
15
Hitman
Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to. Up wall to crack and on to top. |
10
True Confessions
Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’. Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top. |
14
Straight Jacket
Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’. Up the crack. |
Mischief to Fingers
A dense cluster of routes, easily access from above at the metal bridge dropping down the chimney. |
15
Mischief
Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’. Up crack to stance and on to top. |
13
★ Snakes and Ladders
Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’. Up twin cracks to top. |
17
★ Modern Electrics
Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’. Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top. |
16
★★ Whale Oil Beef Hooked
Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’. Up thin corner crack to top. |
16
Passing the Buck
Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’. Up crack. |
14
Interlude
A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do. Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’. A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof. |
3
★ Epileptic Chimney
A useful descent route for this part of the cliff. Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’. Up chimney. |
20
Funky Monkey
Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder. Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro. |
15
Ivory Stairs
Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’. Loose in parts. Up corner to roof, step left and up to top. |
20
★★ Ilean
Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’. Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates). |
17
★★ Submission
Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’. Up crack to top. |
6
★ Staircase Chimney
Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’. Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top. |
14
Mantle as Anything
Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’. Up wall to crack then to top. |
12
★ Plastic Passion
Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’. Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top |
17
Contrivia
Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion. A bit silly. Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top. |
24
★★ New Blue Dress
Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top. |
17
★★ Fear and Loathing
Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’. Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle. |
20
★ It Pays to Belong
Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’. Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful. |
16
Nightmare Crack
Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare! Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top. |
18
Traverse of terror
Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Preferably use double ropes!. Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’. |
11
Subterranean Jungle
Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Chimney and jam using the crack for protection. |
18
★★ Fingers
Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start. Fingery crack that closes near the top. |
Blue Murder to Earthborn Pilgrim
A small cluster of quality routes. Can be easier to rap in from AA, or via the broken gully immediately downstream. |
21
★ Blue Murder
Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’). Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top. |
18
★★ Amphetamine Annie
Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height. Up crack to top. |
20
★ Anthrax
Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ] In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start. Start: As for ‘potato Picker’. Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top. |
16
★★ Potato Picker
Start: Due to difficult access from the upstream end of the cliff it is best to approach down one of the chimneys as for Last Straw or by the gully which can be seen in the topo. If you are approaching from one of the climbs upstream then:- Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short easy wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge. The stance at the bottom of the cliff is quite constricted now due to new growth so it is probably advisable to belay on the ledge. Follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top. |
16
Chocks Away
Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker’. Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top. |
15
Occam's Razor
Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away’. Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney. |
15
Earthborn Pilgrim
Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’. Up crack to top. |
A rough group of shorter routes on a more broken section of cliff
A rough group of shorter routes on a more broken section of cliff |
18
★★ Redemption
Start: 10m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace. Up thin crack to top. |
18
Hagar the Horrible
Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces Up wide crack to top. |
12
Chunder Chimney
Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall. Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar. |
16
★★ Last Straw
Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above. The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked) |