Vías en Bare Rock

Starts up Fire in The Sky heads left on rings.

The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing.

The line above the jumar approach. Mixed, long, sustained and hard for the grade. There are two way to climb at the crux, out left to the bolts gives the route it's grade. Climbing directly up the crack is considered much closer to 25+ but much better.

Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible.

A fantastic route. Technical and sustained face climbing that keeps you engaged the whole way.

The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt.

Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing.

The supposed polar opposite of a Velvet Morning. The prominent crack bordering the orange.

The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.

Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.

"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield"

Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class.

Hard for the grade, but worth the effort. Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.

Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process.

Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

Straight up the awesome red wall after the first few bolts of White Powder. Should clock in at around 33.

Climbs White Powder to the bolt before the rest and then step leftwards into Garry's other project and finish up that. Very sustained.

Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner.

Climb White Powder to the 7th bolt. The best warmup for the Boneyard.

Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder.

Climb Vapour Trail for 25m to a DBB. Make sure you go to the anchor on the left and not the one for Give A Dog A Bone. Sustained climbing, big moves on big holds.

Harder than it looks.

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

Start up Passchendaele then break left up thin jamb crack to lower off.

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 and 0.5 cam) and move left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

A striking line up the blank, overhanging shield. Easy climbing leads to a powerful crux with multiple options, all of which are hard. Followed by a few pump cruxes high above the hard moves.

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either.

Now open project, Direct start to 2 fast 2 Furious Thin, powerful and sick climbing

Sustained excellent climbing.

Finger crack to lower off.

Powerful boulder climbing.

The last current climb on the wall, technical fingery climbing.

The "easy exit" from the Orange Crush ledge can be used as a way of climbing Black Fire to the top of the cliff (at a similar grade), as a way of exiting Orange Crush Ledge, or as a fun single pitch in its own right.

From the belay, move left and up, following incipient crack to bulge. Left at bulge and up onto ledge. Hard moves off ledge, then easier climbing up and right to a final punchy finish on small crimps.

Can JUST lower back to the belay on a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end!)

Climbs Amber Allure to the 6th bolt, then heads directly up the steep, thin face (where AA traverses left through the bulge) via punchy moves, the join Amber Allure just before it's top headwall.

Up Obsidian Obsession for 4 bolts, then head left and up to bulge. Extremely tough moves past 3 bolts, then easier -but engaging- slabbing to rejoin Obsidian Obsession at the last bolt.

CLOSED PROJECT - The line of bolts up the black streak left of Orange Crush, starting from the same small belay ledge.

Starts just left of fixed line from the boneyard access ledge. Pitch 1: 30m gr18. follow line of bolts up and right to a delicate last love to clip DBB.

Pitch 2: 25m gr23/24. harder if shorter. Continue straight up from belay with technical climbing on small holds. Exciting moves pulling through roof to jugs. Excellent slab climbing with some delicate moves to finish on the boneyard decent ledge.

Locate the start on the slab directly below the rightmost end of the Boneyard. To get there, follow orange tags towards Bare Rock in rough alignment as the road to the shipping container.

P1 (18) 30m - Up surprisingly steep box groove and slab finale.

P2 (21) 30m - Steep moves and thin crux to start, then onward to great slabbing and another crux.

P3 (19) 25m - Up face and slab (unpleasant start) with tricky face moves at the top.

P4 (19) 25m - More slab, with a hard first sequence, and a desperate one to gain the belay.

P5 (18) 25m - Up, with a few challenging moves on deteriorating rock. Easy chossy climbing to arrive at the righthand end of The Boneyard.

Rap the route (5 x 30m raps or 2 x 60m raps), or climb at The Boneyard and exit via the fixed lines.

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

The first route at Bare Rock.

A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch.

P1 40m (21) - Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses.

P2 32m (25) - Follow line of bolts right off belay, up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay.

P3 35m (21) - More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height.

P4 20m 20) - Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to elay on ledge below Orange Crush.

Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Obsidian Obsession.

Alternate second pitch to Black Fire.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground. The line of bolts trending up from this foreshortened belay is Black Fire. Bisso of Orange goes right.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the foreshortened belay as a giant 35m pitch.

P1 - 35m (16)

P2 - 30m (22)

P3 - 30m (22)

P4 - 35m (22)

P5 - 25m (26)

P6 - 30m (21)

Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose.

P1 35m (22) - Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay.

P2 20m (25) - Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping.

P3 25m (24) - Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay.

P4 45m (22) - A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up.

P5 25m (24) - Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb.

3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground.

A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.

1. 35m 22 Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.

2. 15m 21 Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.

3. 28m 21 Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

Starts right of Sapphire Rose Start.

1. 23 30 m step left from the ramp then straight up to join Sapphire Rose at the final move through the roof to shared P1 anchors.

2. 23 18m up through roof then move right and up to ledge and DBB

3. 22 35m cross left over diagonal crack then up to slabby crux before trending right through steeper territory. Step right to DBB and abseil point after small roof, or continue past final 2 bolts to the Medicine cabinet. (40 m to there)

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

1. 25, 30 m, bolted line 3 m right of Ride the Lightening original. Belay as for RTL original at chains.

2. 22, 15 m, step right and up from belay. Belay at chains on comfortable ledge.

3. 24, 30 m, thing slab up and right from belay, continuing up past dynamic harder section in the black steepening.

4. as for RTL.

5. as for RTL.

Starts at the top of first pitch of RTL, also easily approached via a short bolted traverse from the top of P1 of MM or SR.

1. 23 15 m the right hand line of bolts through roof to rejoin RTL P3 belay

2. 23 35m head R from the belay via thin holds. Diagonal ramp to left then head wall to finish at Medicine wall and Abseil point. Exactly 35m so be careful descending

Bolted line 2 m right of Ride The Ligthning pitch 1. Somewhat funky slabbing on somewhat delicate rock. Climb directly past the last bolt for maximum crankage.

Starts at ground level, to the right side of the scree-ramp leading to Sapphire Rose et al. Start just left of a big corner forming a right-leaning arch. Hard and varied.

P1 30m (22) - Climb on the right leaning rib along the lip of the arch with progressively increasing difficulty to a tough awkward finale.

P2 30m (22) - Trend right along the lip of the arch with an easy start leading to much thin face climbing.

P3 35m (25) - Up. Through a vague square cut corner/rooflet, and up a very thin and technical slab on spaced bolts.

P4 30m (25) - Straight up the steep headwall with pumpy, powerful climbing to a final thin headwall on black rock (can be a bit dirty).

Descent via 2 x 60m raps to the ground - top rap is 62m+... you might make it simul-rapping but tie knots!! Alternately 35m/30m/55m rap.

A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster.

Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around.

Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (its possible to stem off the right-corner in the lower 1/3rd without changing the grade), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face.

The continuation of Godhead's Lament past 8 more bolts through even more ridiculously steep climbing.

Start up Godhead's Lament. At the 2nd last bolt of GL (the fixed hanger before the ringbolt) trend right and up past 8 more bolts.

Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty.

Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area.

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.

1. P1 is a fully bolted slab (16).

2. P2 follows loose right trending diagonal line (camming devices) before traversing to bolt on left wall (17). Up to belay.

3. P3 is brilliant fully bolted grade 19 climbing on great rock.

An alternate 2nd pitch to Tomorrows Dream making the route fully bolted.

Varient last pitch of Tomorrows Dream Cruxy

The line of bolts between Tomorrow's Dream and Rocketman with a very hard start.

The rightward-trending line of bolts right of The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk.

A nouveau classic featuring funky and unlikely climbing up a corner system to an airy traverse to finish.

A fun, mostly trad multi that extends Underestimated all the way to the Supernaut Ledge. Will make an excellent alternative to Tomorrow's Dream if you have done that a few times.

1. 25m (22) As for Underestimated to the belay.

2. 20m (16) Lovely trad pitch up the obvious right leaning crack. Good gear and fun moves the whole way. Belay at double bolts on ledge.

3. 35m (21) Hard start off ledge past bolt and key 0.4 cam then intriguing face climbing on excellent gear and passing one more bolt to double bolts on ledge.

4. 20m (18) Funky, fully bolted slab pitch to the Supernaut Ledge.

Start right of Underestimated. Vicious.

Starts a few meters left of Easter Rising, crosses MacDonagh 8m up, then continuing up the steep, roofy face above.

Start as for Easter Rising, then at the first ledge, take the line of bolts to the RIGHT up a steepening face, before tackling the very cruxy series of stepped roofs at the top.

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof.

Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)).

Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end).

Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top.

Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets.

Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.

Ludicrous steepness in an intimidating position.

1. 25m (26) Start just left of Faeries Wear Boots/Into the Void, and right of the ramp start to Peppa Pig. Stick clip 2nd bolt. Be careful clipping 3rd bolt. Up through the steeps and then left left left forever covering some outrageous terrain.

2. 30m (20) A worthwhile pitch in its own right that can be rapped into from the top if you aren't up for pitch one.

Pitch one was recently freed at 26. These two routes should probably be combined.

Pitch 2 can be climbed as a worthwhile single pitch at 30m gr20 by rapping from anchors 10m right (looking out) of the top of Supernaut to a semi-hanging belay in an open-book corner above The Great Roof.

Atmospheric face climbing, getting progressively harder the whole way.

The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.

Up first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots to stance at hanging corner. Up corner to right with a tricky move (23) then straight up the face to join Supernaut. Continue up the last 8 bolts of Supernaut.

Up the overhanging seam for 3 bolts (crux) then a rising traverse L on orange rock out towards the arête. Climb just R of the arête for a sustained section of face climbing for 20m to the top.

Climb Supernaut for 5 bolts, then head slightly right and more directly upwards on orange rock via sustained, thin, varied, and tricky-to-read sequences to the anchors.

The grade is very much out on this one due to lack of repeats. 24 or 25?

Climb the 1st 4 bolts of Supernaut, and continue rightwards up the vague corner with a cruxy move high in the corner. Ignore the Line of Bolts going straight up the grey face above (Heaven and Hell) and continue further up right on orange rock to belay.

The short arete on the eastern (Downstream, Bare Rock-side) side of the boulder with 3 bolts.

Up the flake/crack system right of Block O'Clock as for Gerry's Project, then trend left on gear following the weakness to the arete and up to anchors of Block O'Clock.

Right of Block O'Clock. Start as for Cock Block but continue straight up the guts of the face. Thin and technical with a great sting in the tail.

Climbs the right arete of the main face in its entirety. Reportedly quite nails.

The right arete of the main face, trending left onto the face to join Gerry's Project near the top.

Up the left-hand side of the face furthest from Bare Rock on The Block.

Up the right-hand side of the face furthest from Bare Rock on The Block. A steep boulder problem start and then much easier to the top.

On the left-hand side of the Upstream side (opposite the main face) of The Block. Extremely hard start to the 2nd bolt, then more pleasant to the top.

Right of Isaac's Route. An utterly desperate boulder-problem start to easier climbing above.

Right of Ingvar's 27. Up past 4 bolts to rooflet, then left past rooflet and up easier slab to top.

Right of Ingvar's 29. Up past 4 bolts to rooflet, then desperate moves through rooflet and onto the slab above. Up slab.