Ascensiones en West of the access track como Tick

I chose to do the Devil's Deliverance option- first half of Devil's Dihedral up to the small stance at the bush, then step right into the corner of Deliverance and continue from there. So although not the original line, it's a much more enjoyable and 3 star option! Awesome gear all the way and an exciting finish. We cleaned out the pin scars in the lower section of the original on the way down, unearthing a large army of ants and muck. Pretty happy to have avoided all that.

For first lead of the season felt good

Playing with gear and moves

2 star

Picked up Canadian Dane from the side of the access track cause he was looking for a partner. After faffing up neon philharmonic we learnt that he was only here for the day before leaving again so onto the 3 star classics it was. Got an absolute masterclass in offwidth technique on the direct start, super valuable stuff. Putting some actual technique to the grunting... Still fuckin nails, but felt way less desperate. The rest didn't feel bad at all, feet everywhere you need them at any point. Gotta work on my pump management badly tho

Beautiful jamming

So gorgeous 😱😍👌

Underrated

Yay! What a fun route Every cm through the crux felt tough, I struggled hard to not slide down or rest on gear.

Rocked up to the crag at a casual 10:30am, did a lap of each side of the access track saying our hellos and finding a rope every route we intended to do this weekend sans the smokestack - chimney warmup it is. I led the start as inefficiently as possible till the point where I got to the final face holds before the chimney and realised that the 3L of beer I sent the night before was having an effect and the likelihood of me getting to the top without filling the chimney with vomit was low - bailed. Marty took the sharp end and went on to give a performance that would leave Elvis jealous for moves. Never heard the fella make so much noise on a climb. We also discovered that bodily sounds from the rear and even whispers are amplified a very large amount from the ledge and down the chimney. Any budding frog musicians should make their way to the top of the stack for their performance needs. Dave seconded up at lightning speed then I tied in again to check Marty's cowboy gear. Dropped a draw off my harness, did some sideways stick retrieval action in the chimney on rappel, all part of the frog warmup experience.

Not an rp, using some rock in the corner for a footer which i felt was off route, at least not direct. Overall a poor experience, hard to protect crux, blew two footers, needed bigger gear or a chock stone i could trust– this one shifts against the hollow face plate. I'll be back.

Absolutely sick route, great jams below and above the offwidth. One of the best frog routes to date

Thin hands for me remains my nemesis

Climbed it as a 18 C1. I aided the crux and climbed the rest

Planned to climb with just kyle this morning: kyle at 830pm last night: just met a yosemite climber in the gym.. i think ive talked him into frog in the morn. Me: cool well bring him. Leave at 6? Kyle: cool! Nah 4. Fuck. My eyes sting. Worth it though, 5 longish pitches done! In feb on a 31degree day with a party of 3! We were moving. Alex was moving on conquistador. Onsight speed record probably, he looked way to smooth. So i stepped in, kyle, i said, enough with this donating him classics, im gonna show him what happens on your ~60th trip out here. Now alex has experienced 4 classics and a wasp infested arete variant jammed between some classics! Shit talk aside though, this was surprisingly good. Cant decide whether the traverse out from totga felt contrived or delightfully airy, but once the reachy carrot is clipped, 20m worth of thoughtful side pulls, blind holds and high feet on both sides of the arete ensues. Definitely a deserving route in its own right even amongst elite company either side. Started getting warm up high so we collected our chips and headed to get kyles favourite steak sanga and i pilfered alex for his usa beta.

Top rope send. Pumpy!

I’m tired 2.0

Got it clean to the awkward as hell ledge then proceeded to fall over and over again. Hard work for a warm up

Much better than last years gear zipper retreat attempt. Some facey moves down low teased my fingies abit but the jamming and ow felt very secure. One of the best lines out here for steamy stemming and i like abit of air uo between my legs. Dont take that the wrong way.. no do actually.