★ Flying Arkwright 16

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. Camalots to #4 will make you happy if you're not a great fan of slinging chockstones. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

The ease of access and signs of merriment seems to make people lose their morals here. A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the 1996 guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. These have been cut off, returning The Fortress to the glory days of down-soloing a chimney to get off most routes. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record'. In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The 'worst case', however, was at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.