Vías como deportiva en Carborundum Wall

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

1. 25m (19) 5FHs: Start at the big tree at the apex of the path (just to the right of CC). Veers left for first 2 bolts then straight up past 3rd FH to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

2. 25m (15) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way up the black wall to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the crux section consisting of 2 small parallel chimneys to nice foot ledge. It's not over yet, then balancy, crimpy climbing for 2 bolts and easy moves to DBB.

Rap down the way you went up.

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting with long runouts. Scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half way. Mind the choss before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4. Pitch 4 options: 4a) 35m (17) Wander right off the belay, up the steep gully and skirt under overhang then continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rappelled. 4b) 28m (24) From belay, head straight up and over slab passing a single ring and chain belay. Continue left up the tricky overhanging corner and pull the lip with a few punchy moves. over the lip head right through shrubbery to a DBB on a bushy ledge.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Take a 70m rope if intending to link pitches.

Rap using one of the options:

A) Rap back down route.

From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge trending slightly to the right (looking back up the ridge) to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by walking back left i.e. down the alternate (24) pitch not down the (17) pitch, you can rap to the 3rd pitch DBB by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the DBB. From here you can either rap to the ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or continue rappelling down via the 1st pitch by rapping to the end of your rope and carefully walking 10m to the right to the DBB anchor of the 1st pitch. Due to the rappels being not straight down be mindful to not let go of your rope when anchoring in at DBB's. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rappelling if you follow instructions.

B) Down Airtime Over Pumicestone.

2x 60m ropes required. Straight down the bushy gully for about 40m. Then small belay ledge on left. Straight abseil to hanging belay under a tiny overhang on right. Then rap to ground.

First Contact begins 5m L of Banished For Infidelity. 7 FHs, lower-off.

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.