★★ Scarab 12

1. 25m (feels a bit harder than 12.) Note: 1 guidebook says 20 metres, another says 28m, somewhere in between? Up to ledge, then up a bit further before moving left to where you'll see two carrots - one old and manky, the other slightly less so. Often a wet streak just above. Continue up to a stance at right end of obvious horizontal breaks. Good trad anchor here. Older guidebooks say there's bolt belay but we didn't see one.

2. (10m). Awesome traverse with great gear and easy climbing to massive ledge and trad belay.

3. (24m). Up the wall behind the distinctive horns to trad belay at top.

Descent: Follow foot pad to descent gully and rap anchor above 'Island Cruise'

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education