Ascensiones de Kaos

2 laps. 2nd clean

Got the beta sorted with the horizontal dyno, the first crux just couldn't link up from the start even after a few attempts. Bad voodoo vibes going on and watson (my dog) screaming for food and managing to chew through the shealth didn't help! Will go when it's dry and not the day after rain.

Have totally forgotten the move to the 3rd clip in the 18 months since the last lockdown!

mikl bangerz only on this wall. and sure the horizontal dyno is whack, but that's not the only surprise up there.

First crux was very challenging, did it with a friend’s beta with high left foot and switch left hand on jug ledge to undercling. 1.5 finger pocket for right hand up is deep, but have to get it as a side pull for it to be nice. Did the dyno which was super fun! Or for those strong people, static beta is out there too 👍

Harder than I thought it would be, especially at end of day.

Warm-up and hanging draws

Yay. That was fun.

Nearly stuck it on the warmup, went next go, to much surprise. Much better conditions than last time and I found some microbeta that helped the dyno for me. This climb might have given me sciatica but it was worth, it is strange, and special

4 attempts. only stuck the dyno like 1 in 10 times, but the bit before is much smoother with a press beta

The bottom section went much better. Eventually. 1.5 finger pocket remains mediocre at best. Things felt damp today.

Found a better way to do the static dyno

Le tired

Finally ticked this one off and in great style. First climb of the day, cold fingers, but still got it lol

Finally ticked this one off and in great style. First climb of the day, cold fingers, but still got it lol

I'd given up on this but today found a way to get to the pocket, and it's way more fun to project than the traverses. Had done the dyno on top rope before but took a few goes on lead today.

Cool moves on this one! Realized I can do the dyno move statically :')

Shoulder said no

Stuck it today! Felt just as good past the pink point the other day. Awesome climb!

Nailed it! Stay low for the dyno!

First proper attempt at this climb today. Not working on beta as I know it. Need to stick the dunk in the middle first try next time. Today I fell on my first attempt then made it to the top on my second. Hopefully will red-point on Friday (2 days from posting this)

rope solo with rest

Same start as Kaotic Touch, but finishes easier. Fell on the dyno again =/ but after it is pretty ok. Will come back for this one.

Need to work on the pocket move and then see what comes after