Ascensiones en Right Main Wall como varios tipos de ascensiones registradas

Took an unsuspecting whip just below the chains. Next time for sure..

Few burns on TRS. Feels cruisy. Frustrating couple of slips on my 2 send goes after dialling beta. Figured out much more stable beta that’ll go easily. Nothing feels particularly cruxy but no clue how it’d go having to clip draws. Fighting the urge to dog & downgrade but I’ll save that for the redpoint.

Finally pulled the lower crux, sorted clipping beta for the upper.

Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.

Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21.

Third session on the beast - TR solo. Pulled through first crux, but burned up and fell on the second part of the first crux (or is this considered the second crux?). First time pulling through the whole bulge crux. Spent most of the session working the top section. Will need a good rest after the bulge. Pieced together all the moves, not sure if it is the best beta- has a real heartbreaker final move to the chains.

skin all gone but motivation to come back is up. Hopped on the top rope to "try" the moves and managed to send. No skin left or time before last call on tacos though. Hopefully, get back on it for a lead attempt soon

Had a bit of assistance at the crux from belayer

Big move towards the top! Don't know if it was first climb jitters or what but had to take

Second proper session working it on TRsolo. Linked through the first crux to the bulge. Got through the bulge sequence - always feels sketchy having high feet on TR solo. Have to work on the top next, doesn't seem especially hard but will be pretty touch and go after the lower sections!

A little bit closer to getting the dyno

A bit crumbly at the top but otherwise an arguably nicer finish to HB than the original.

Pretty technical! Dry fired the crux on the first shot and resorted to hoping my way through. Need to dial in the beta...

Got the dyno on the second try, then rest at the next clip. Happy to be able to try this again. Time to revisit a few of the KP classics.

Matched slopers

Project

Delivered a true KatTheGlacier spesh by hanging on every bolt and second guessing every jug. Thanks for the patient belay Myles

Was a bit too tired by the time I got on this climb for the crux, but should go clean when fresh. Good climb though; will be back.

Why had I never been on this? Was really good. Needed to think a moment how to avoid the dyno (not suitable if you are 5 foot 4), but it's possible to crimp your way up to the jug. Will go clean next time.

Had a look on TR solo. Managed to do all of the moves (thanks to some pointers from Tel for crux 1), I think with some work it could go!

Actually awesome

Thanks Mark for the fresh ringbolts!

It's still hard, especially so in soft shoes!

Having a look on TR solo. Need to get high for the first crux throw. Need to grow arms longer for between last bolt to anchor.

New project