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Equipo fijo: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Creó hace 15 días

Equipo fijo: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Creó hace 15 días

Acceso: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

BCC will begin more cliff stabilisation work at KP next month: June 2024.

This will mean rolling (staggered) closures of certain routes and areas, as the work progresses.

Unfortunately, a couple of high profile routes need some "tlc" and will be closed for a bit, whilst they do shotcreting work as well as pinning some rock on or near them:

SCB (18)

Anonymous (16)

Humungousaur (16)

Spidermonkey (6)

TASH (10)

The slab on the right, where Humungousaur & Spidermonkey are located, is not the target, the alcove to the left is & has been on their "to-do" list for a while now. I did a walk-through last year (2023), with BCC & their subcontractor and they need to stabilise the lose rock in that alcove, which will mean closing access to the slab right of it, and probably/maybe, the 18 to the left: Dodgy Dub, possibly Hanging Garden as well? If there were large rockfall during the stabilisation works, they would need to take precautions that any member of the public is well clear. Cést la vie.

The biggest impact will probably be the temporary closure of the stone stairs whilst they carry out stabilisation work in the alcove beneath the stone stairs. Rock pinning + shotcreting. You may have noticed the huge bags of rocks they placed there, last year (2023), as a temporary shoring-up measure.

Unfortunately, this will restrict access to the cliffs, to either via the road below or the metal stairs on the right, (below the Nursery Cliffs).

More work will be done around the arête Earth To Stella + A Quickie Before Dinner, but these routes have long been closed now, with heavy wire mesh pinned around that arête to stabilise it.

There will also be more stabilisation work done at KP North.

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Creó hace 5 horas - Editó hace 4 horas

descripción

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

Historia de la vía

1969Primera ascensión en libre: Rick White

Advertencias

5 May 2024 Advertencia Equipo fijo: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 Advertencia Equipo fijo: The Rasp/Exterminator
20 May 2024 Advertencia Acceso: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

Ubicación

Lat/Long.: -27.48001, 153.03345

Referencias de nivel de dificultad

17 Grado de dificultad
15 [15 - 16] -- grAId
17 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
17 Kangaroo Point

Ética

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
heredado de Kangaroo Point

Estacionalidad

E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Calidad

Megaclásica
Clásico
Muy buena
Buena
Medio
Ni te molestes
Basura

La calidad general 55 de las 212 valoraciones.

Dificultad - 17

Soft Touch
Fácil
Medio
Duro
Sand Bag

Basado en valoraciones de 3.

Grado sugerido

17

Basado en valoraciones de 3.

Tipos de ascensiones

A vista 89
Flash 28
Punto rojo 155
Punto rosa 12
Hecha 99
Top rope 10
Intento 19

Palabras clave en los comentarios

runout intimidating fall easy rest hands crack smooth short interesting awkward nice super great good cool enjoyable fun pleasant awesome hard sustained tough crux solid

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Fecha: 2021

número ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2018

número ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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