Vías en Northern Crag

Starts a bit further south of the main wall and can be accessed the same way by abseiling further down the south side.. Trad belay at the base is recommended.. Up the wall passing some gear to a thin section and a bolt (hanger required). Through the small roof (gear) then easier ground to the top.

Start just left of disintegration. Up the face passing 2 bolts (crux), then pull into the flake and continue up the wall past another br and some gear.. Finishes at the DBB.. Take hangers.

Large blocky hold at about 3/4 distance is extremely fragile. Be very careful placing gear behind it or cranking on it hard

Grunge Metal (24)** 15m

Classic, steep and pumpy ! Start just left of Precious Metals and head up past 4 bolts. Trad gear needed for belay.

Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill 16/12/6

Bearded Dolphin (21)** 15m

Between Finish Fatale and Thrice Bitten. Great climbing up faces and through two small roofs. Follow the line of 6 bolts and some trad if you feel the need (but not required – except for belay). Bouldery start and multiple cruxes. May seem desperate… but can be finessed down to around grade 21. A classic route for the punters !

Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill 16/12/6

Start up steep black wall. Clean sand away before placing big cams, and jug to glory.

1. 10m, 14. Start about 5m right of Banana Split, go up the black wall for 2m, followed by 2m of horizontal breaks leading to a 4m vertical crack. Beware of loose rocks. Optional Belay on the ledge.

2. 15m, 11. Continue up the lower ramp below the line of Northwind. On a hot day, consider climbing the second pitch barefoot to make them happier!

Note: this line was climbed to retrieve the trad anchor of Jug Abuse about 12m down and right of the optional belay of Happy Feet. Have others found a better way to clean the anchor of Jug Abuse (see drawing on S. Richardson’s guide)? Perhaps, many have been wise enough to stay away from Jug Abuse altogether 😉

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-northern-buttress-happy-feet-25m-14/

Great beginner route. Climb up easy corner/roof section to reach wide banana shaped crack. Jam your way to the top. Well protected with small to medium cams and nuts.

Superb face climbing on excellent rock. Bolts are carrots requiring hangers, small to medium cams and wires can protect the start and middle of the climb.

Sustained. Climb obvious crack route up middle of face. Small cam/nut required for top section. Desperately look for the good hold to reach bolt (hanger required), then squirm your way over the top. DBB (ringbolts) can be found on top and to the left.

Nice climb up the corner with nice finishing jugs. DBB belay at top means you can rap back down!

Really enjoyable face climb. Start under and right of roof (look for rusty bolt in roof). First bolt placement is too high and awkward for a safe clip. Use a small/medium cam to get there. Also a little run out on top.

Start up 'Digital Delecti' then before the layback flakes on this traverse left to the arete and finish up this

We got a little lost trying to ascend BoF and ended up on this great line! start on West face, move slightly right to clip the first bolt. Long move up and right and into good rail beneath roof. Powerful pull through this up the left weakness, and then climb straight to the top, passing through slight open-book. The top half of the route shares the line of Baited Frenzy (18) with marginal protection.

funky heel hooking through the roof to finish up easy wall above. One bolt, wires and small camming devices.

Easy ocean facing slab with lots of jugs. More of a scramble.

More easy slab. Lots of options.

Sit start on jug. Up with good holds on arete and left face.

Sit. Up middle of the face.

Sitter and up.

Sit start on low holds. Up into good holds.

Sit start with crimps.

Sit start under the roof on good slots. Out to the slopey lip and then exit left.

Sit start the crack and up

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

Sit start low. VHARD.

Stand is straight forward but the sit looks all time and hard... Andy has already done it.

Start low on two left side pulls, big move from left undercling to finger lock pinch before travese left and top out. https://vimeo.com/104922569

Lower start to Salted deeper in the cave (although there is still potential for an even lower start). Come up and right before re-joining 'Salted'. Estimated V9+

Rock blocking the low start has been removed - making a start deep in the cave under the salted boulder possible.

Three moves... sit start on positive holds, up to sidepull then catch the massive barndoor with slopey undercling. Powerful. https://vimeo.com/136427795

Sit start with low right hand undercling and left hand pinch (somewhat contrived). Up edges to easy top out.

Sit start far left of the boulder as for 'Thumb War' and traverse into Newton's Arm Wrestle. Adds some pump and the traverse in itself has a nice sequence (~V5/6ish) - likely adds a grade due to pump

Start on juggy undercling down low and move right before big moves at the lip. https://vimeo.com/104922569

Start as for Wookie but exit out right before the powerful moves at the lip.

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2016/06/the-waiting-game.html

The first corner system you reach as you head south west along the path.

Nice climbing up the thin crack and face to the ledge. Step left and continue up the finger crack in the headwall.

Head up MF to the ledge, clip the br (plate required) and head up and right to an airy finish.

Traverse out right from the start of MF along the thin crack which takes a micro cam. Clip the bolt and crank up the face and fingercrack, through the bulge and onto the large ledge. Enjoyable climbing up the arete passing a bolt (plate required) and some natural gear to the top.

Instead of clipping the bolt on NR, continue traversing right along the horizontal crack until at the base of the flared black groove. A few nice jams up past the chockstone to reach easier ground and the large ledge. Climb the easy face on nice rock passing a br (plate required).