Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Mié 29.º Mayo 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish — 3 intentos | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Hard! Very sustained minging followers by awesome slopes, another great Great Wall route!
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Conor White, Ned Middlehurst | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con Justin Wimmer | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
This is sensational. I can imagine trying to lead it in the future, but another few attempts on TR would be needed before I was game enough to try it! Probably a PP after that before considering a RP... serious stuff. Was nice to use a finger lock at some point there (although only possible after cleaning Justin's cam from the crack, so probably can't use that in the lead, haha)
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Justin Wimmer, Will | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Probably my best experience leading a trad pitch ever. Sublime. I used to be so intimidated by this line it took me 3 trips to try it. While at the top I looked down and couldn't believe what I had just done, haha... For me this was not easy at all. The start was my style, felt easy and I was not as scared as I anticipated. But I was terrified of dropping it later on while doing more unusual moves (for me) involving jams. But what a fucking line. Gear is everywhere and there are jugs and rests to allow you to get those 40m clean. I got to the end of pitch 1 and started cellebrating, until Justin told me that the second pitch was harder and still above me, hahaha... Sheer determination saw me to the top after that, even with very little pieces left on my harness. It will be hard to have a better experience climbing trad in Australia. Test-piece for 19 given the length I think. Wish I could log it as an onsight, but I've seen too many people doing it before. Justin led it earlier in the day and left a piece when cleaning, but I made sure to pull it out and replace it for the real flash, haha...
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23 Fácil | ★★★ Against the Wind - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 45m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
quite a cool line with a bit of a runout if you don't have a ball nut or a 00 friend, could result in a ground fall or near at least but all the gear is good.
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24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
very cool climb took me a while to figure out the crux, need to work on my crimps a bit, also I don't think worn-out shoes help for edging. but oh well, still a fun climb
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
An absolutely amazing route. just wow. great gear the movements and variability of climbing styles make this Stella
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Bruno Alves Buzatto | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land — 2 intentos - con j wiz | 45m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
What a conclusion to an incredible trip. Topped out this incredible climb to the views of a perfect moonarie sunset on the final day of our trip.
Doesn’t get much better than this
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Mié 24.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension — 3 intentos - con j wiz | 45m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 20.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con j wiz | 40m | |||||
Very cool.
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - con j wiz | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con j wiz | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mié 17.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
WAY better than the Scorcerer's Apprentice 2nd pitch to Outside Chance. Not entirely clear where it is supposed to go near the top, we broke right to get to Downwind chains at some point
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16 |
★★★ Outside Chance P1
1
| 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing lead, great photos, great belay spots at both ends. Only thing stopping it being a mega classic is how hard it is not to pull yourself round onto the easy face on the other side of the arrete.
Very happy to lead this, felt pretty comfortable throughout (though I did end up kind of on the outside of the arrete once, just for a wee moment).
NB logging Buckleys as a separate climb because it's listed, instead of 2 pitches for this. |
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Mar 16.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Against the Wind - con Darcy Storm, Bradd Jimmink | 45m, 2 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish - con Darcy Storm, Bradd Jimmink | 40m, 2 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Darcy Storm, Bradd Jimmink | 40m | |||||
Sáb 6.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land - con brett | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Mixed feelings.
Very engaging and technical moves on a very aesthetic face however only having the guide book description to hand when I was at the moon the stars and description I perceived the route to be well protected. I think an R rating would be apt.
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24 Duro | ★★★ Hypertension - con Jackie Bernardi | 45m, 3 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Went to the anchors on the right up the finger crack on the right variation, tried the boring go left at the horizontal and up the crag original version couple of days prior this is a far better way to end the climb.
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Vie 5.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Luke C | 40m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Luke C | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great climbing with lot of exposure.
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
Mié 3.º Abr 2024 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Luke C | 40m | |||||
Super hard and scary start on nuts, it took Luke sometime... but he got to the top and I followed
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Mar 28.º Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land - con Laura | 45m | |||||
Brilliant! Could do with a lower off to save the choss phaffing at the top
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17 | Rush Variant - con Laura | 20m | Medio | ||||
Nice belay cave
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17 | ★★ Rush - con Laura | 60m | |||||
Awkward pea pod thing detracts from an otherwise nice line
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Lun 6.º Nov 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Kris Penn | 40m | ★ Buena | ||||
Steep and pumpy with some really cool moves!
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Jue 26.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Incredible route!! Unfortunately didn’t know about bolted anchor above first pitch and as I only had single rack stopped 5 meters before on ledge at arete and built anchor. Then I didn’t want to screw myself up with rope drag to the top so I went through an easier section to discover the bolts were 5m away 🙈 top roped languish in anguish (stunning climbing as well) after and did the last 5m of the route proper:)
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Jue 19.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
22 | ★★ Eat or Die | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Dom 15.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Outside Chance
1
2
| 50m | |||||
17 | ★★ Rush | 60m | |||||
24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
infinity's better
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17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | |||||
17 | ★★ Rush | 60m | |||||
Lun 9.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
The nerves kicked in a little while watching Jack lead this... Alas no falls for either of us. What a stunning route
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Sáb 7.º Oct 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Bit more dialled? Also a bit more pumped...
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24 | ★★★ Hypertension | 45m, 3 | |||||
Thin! Bolt for bolt then bailed into RH as we were using those anchors and the pendulum was growing
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24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Epic line. Several tricky bits on the bottom half. Managed to get it first go with some beta from Jack, although had tried the top half when coming in from Hypertension.
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
That top crack so nilly spat me out. Was pretty relived I hadn't tried to lead it Thoroughly enjoyed the bottom half of this, yet to learn the way of the jam
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Mar 5.º Sep 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Outside Chance
1
2
| 50m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
This is something else!
We top roped this off the chains on a 60m rope, which JUST gets to the ground when weighted. Huge swing. A fall in first 6m sans spotter would be likely to hit rocks, tree or belayer. I feel like I sent two 20m grade 19 climbs, but I only got half way up. One for the bucket list... 3+ stars for the moves, the consistency, the location, the duration... full package |
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Two 3-star moves followed by a run out scramble. Second pitch (Scorcerers) unremarkable. I think it could be climbed up the face at a similar (consistent 16-17) grade, esp as a second, but none of us bothered
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Dom 20.º Ag 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Tim | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
last three holds were sandy and I slipped on the last jug, haha
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Mié 14.º Jun 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
I love RPs
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23 | ★★★ Against the Wind | 45m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Yeah, it's as good as they say.
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17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 12.º Jun 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's - con Hugh Edwards | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This was better than I expected and well protected — good gear is useful!
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Hugh Edwards | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Following Hugh up this mega classic
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Jue 11.º Mayo 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Against the Wind | 45m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
want to try to pink point this! Such cool climbing! lead the second pitch OS (i.e. from second bolt to the top as per guidebook)
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Mié 10.º Mayo 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Cypress Avenue | 65m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 7.º Mayo 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Outside Chance P1
1
| 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
25 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish - con Daniel Toone | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great route! Minging crimps and slopey dishes. Unexpected third burn send. Would be a sketchy and difficult onsight
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25 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish - con Michael Christensen | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Michael Christensen | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Mar 2.º Mayo 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ Robbing Hood | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ Robbing Hood — 3 intentos - con Conor White | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Conor White | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Dom 30.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
22 Duro | ★★★ Dry Land - con JakeSouthen, Rake | 45m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
24 ~25 | ★★★ Robbing Hood — 2 intentos - con JakeSouthen, Rake | 50m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lun 24.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con kelly rathjen, Rick Warneke | 40m | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Mike, Kelly | 40m | |||||
Vie 14.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
17 | ★★ Rush | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Improbable move getting out of the sentry box. Spent a while thinking about it.
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Jue 13.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's - con Andy Hennigan | 20m | |||||
A good finish, though not as good as the first pitch
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Andy Hennigan | 50m | |||||
Delightful! First pitch, then on to the direct finish
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Lun 10.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Chelsea Cook | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
The climbing is easier than it looks, but the gear at the top very thin, fiddly and basically terrible. Don't fall after half way! Still, epic position and exposure, and starting is the spice you need. We finished in the grade 12 original second pitch, which is pretty average, so will try Buckley next time.
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24 Duro | ★★★ Robbing Hood - con Rachael Brock | 50m, 3 | |||||
Jumped on someone else’s top rope. Would be an impressive onsight
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25 Duro | ★★★ Languish in Anguish - con Rachael Brock | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Tough, but awesome. Toprope attempt - couldn’t put together the crux, but got everything else figured out. So much fun when there’s no chalk to point the way
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19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Rachael Brock | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Lives up to the hype. A 70m gets you down from the chains
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - con Rachael Brock | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very good until the top section
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16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con Rachael Brock | 50m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Into Buckleys
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Dom 9.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
13 |
★★ Chocolate Ripple
- con
cec
1
escalada de primero por
Bruno Alves Buzatto
2
escalada de primero por
cec
| 60m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This is very cool actually. Some fun laybacking early and then the slab is super fun and much easier and better protected than it looks. Second pitch reminded me of Raven in the Porongurups! 4 bolts, but small to medium pieces good for in between them!
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22 | ★★★ Dry Land - con jasper | 45m | |||||
Lots of small wires useful
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24 | ★★★ Robbing Hood - con jasper | 50m, 3 | |||||
Supercool moves and bomber gear
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - con jasper | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - con jasper | 50m | |||||
13 |
★★ Chocolate Ripple
1
2
| 60m, 3 | |||||
Sáb 8.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Cypress Avenue | 65m | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | |||||
Vie 7.º Abr 2023 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con jasper | 45m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con jasper | 40m | |||||
Lun 17.º Oct 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Against the Wind - con hMill | 45m, 2 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Hypertension - con hMill | 45m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con hMill | 40m | |||||
Jue 6.º Oct 2022 - Moonarie | |||||||
Great Wall Area | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels - con Daniella Iljon | 40m | ★★★ Megaclásica |