Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
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Vie 31.º Mayo 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
18 | ★ Pain heals - con Michael Moore | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Not the best line at the cliff but another worthy line in its own right at the grade
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
23 Fácil | ★ Trajectory Direct - con Mark, Alex, Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
This is neat, deserves another star. Delicate start and the more moves you do the easier it gets so just keep shuffling! Feels pretty soft for a gara 23
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12 | ★ Pluck a Duck - con Mark, Alex, Todd Free | 7m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons - con Michael Moore, Matt | 15m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Footer blew on scrittle at the start, then got up the flake and traversed to the roof crack and rested. Half did the move through the lip. Pumped silly
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Sáb 18.º Mayo 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Mountain Berry Blast - con Volodymyr K, Michael Moore, Matt Nethery | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
SEND! No big deal in the end, just take my time and keep shaking out. Good stamina route for me
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Vie 26.º Abr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - con carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
The new gear beta is great walking or unclipping behind you, leaving just 2 reds at the first lip and two yellows at the second. Fell at crux again, the jams are fine I just need much more weetbix and more stamina.
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22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer - con carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Repeat for the paparazzi. Did something weird at the top and missed a hold and did a funky rockover to finish
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22 | ★★ Morning Glory - con carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
The first third is horribly hollow and loose for gear but otherwise climbs well. Topped out on the ledge. Didn’t do the crack which needs a good clean. Not inspired to lead it
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Mié 24.º Abr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit - con Volodymyr K | 7m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Stoked Volo got this for the 3rd ascent. Almost day flashed it, but ripped off the sweet crux undercling and was gutted. But turned out its still quite doable without it, maybe slightly harder but same grade. Got it 3rd go.
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Mié 24.º Abr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Ketamine - con Volodymyr K | 5m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Gara delivers another classic hiding in plain sight. Felt impossible at first and slowly unlocked the micro beta. Had a bunch of 'ok one last go's, mincing up my right thumb and then stoked to send it when I was thrashed and thought I was going backwards
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V3 | ★★ Pseudoephedrine - con Volodymyr K | 5m | ★ Buena | |||
V2 | ★ Echidna flake - con Volodymyr K | 4m | ★ Buena | |||
Lun 1.º Abr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
20 | ★ Moistened Bint - con Volodymyr K, Laura Price, Bryn Norris, Peter Forsyth | 7m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
20 | ★ Moistened Bint - con Volodymyr K, Laura Price, Bryn Norris, Peter Forsyth | 7m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 23.º Mar 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - con Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.
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20 |
★★ Rites Of Passage
- con
Michael Moore
1
Rapped in and scrubbed what I thought was the line. Got to second bolt and ventured right into nothing, footer broke and fell. Jugged up the rap line and did some lichen archaeology and found the real line and then resumed from the second bolt clean to the top. The crux is start of the arete at the 4th bolt and pretty happy to flash the real line. Honestly tempted to log the whole route as a flash just to see if @best_of_thecrag pulls me up on it
2
Kept going up this stellar hand crack as a single pitch. | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
This one has been on the list for ages and I should have done it years ago, its one of the best routes in the gorge! It climbs well and it's in a top spot
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Vie 8.º Mar 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - con Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go
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Jue 29.º Feb 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - con Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background
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22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer — 2 intentos - con Michael Moore | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Had one flash pumpy burn, figured out the start which ended up being the quite straight forward and exactly how I originally thought it would go. Had a second hang at the 3rd bolt which is probably the true crux. Clean second go. The end feels spicy but you just keep moving and its totally fine.
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Dom 18.º Feb 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer - con Ben Vincent | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Was totally ruined after attempting kiss me deadly. Had a few comical prawn cramps. Got all the moves except the crux at the second bolt. Recommend morning shade and not sweltering arvo direct sun. Maybe 23
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - con Ben Vincent | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Whoa! Epic, daunting, steep, tantalizing, humbling
Lead to first roof and then shut down |
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Sáb 30.º Dic 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V2 ~V1 | ★★ Mother's Milk - con Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 6m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I remember being freaked out watching Ben on this but this time it just seemed like no big deal looking up at it. You absolutely do not want to fall but it might even be a V0.
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V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore - con Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 1m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Super happy with how I re-sent this, very smooth and controlled didn't struggle or grovel at all. All in the hips
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V5 | ★★★ Blokus - con Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 6m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Felt pretty hard getting back on this, took long breaks to save skin and made each go count. Got it maybe 3rd or 4th try
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Sáb 30.º Dic 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - con Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Second go, not sure I'll ever get sick of it
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Vie 1.º Dic 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 Fácil | ★★ Capstone Project - con Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Did the traverse fine and then gassed myself on the mantle. Needed to just get much deeper and palm up and fight a bit more. Don't think my commitment level was the same with time limit and heat. I think I was expecting it to feel a lot easier the second time round.
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22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - con Ben Vincent | 15m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
On a tight time mission, rushed the lower crux and pulled on a draw. The top crux felt really different the second time and still a bit desperate, the karate chop jam does not feel secure but its over quick enough.
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Vie 24.º Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 Fácil | ★★ Capstone Project - con Simon Porter, Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.
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Sáb 18.º Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
★★ alternate end - con Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | ★ Buena | |||||
Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day
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22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - con Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.
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Lun 13.º Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - con Simon Porter | 15m, 6 | ||||
Vie 3.º Nov 2023 - Wallaby Rocks | ||||||
V2 | ★★★ Possum Magic - con Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | 6m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
So glad to finally send this on a beautiful dawn mission. Standing under it it's still intimidating and you definitely do not want to mess up as you pull the lip or down climbing but it is all perfect hand and fist jams and then glory jugs. Did about 10 goes hanging around for pictures and worked myself to the point where I fell off at the top and had a pretty good fall. Head butted my bicep as I landed and gave myself a dead arm!
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Lun 30.º Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Lonely Thursday - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
23 | ★★ Dictator in a Deerstalker - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 9m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Second go
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Lun 30.º Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Truancy Officer - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 15m, 4 | ||||
19 | ★ Shadow the Goat - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 15m, 5 | ||||
10 | ★ Hesitation - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 15m | ||||
Lun 30.º Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Wet Feet Area | ||||||
10 | Mystery Tower - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 12m, 4 | ||||
Where has the rope solo tick type gone??
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Lun 30.º Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Sisters of Fatima - con Alex, Mark, Denni Heywood | 12m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Dom 29.º Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
17 | ★ I Only Eat Plankton - con Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 15m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very cruisy, full body rest at first bolt for kicks. Nice little cruxy finish
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25 | ★★ Atoms in Action - con Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 12m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Two guys working this let me have a quick top rope to clean it as the sun had just hit it. Got to the crux and got the sequence and just peeled off the jug on half pads. After that is a few steep jugs and home free. Would be a great to come back in the morning shade.
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16 | ★ Unknown 4 - con Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 12m, 5 | ||||
4 | ★ Kaboomba Brothers - con Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 10m, 4 | ||||
13 | ★ Unknown 3 - con Mark, Alex, Denni Heywood | 10m, 4 | ||||
Dom 15.º Oct 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort - con Simon Porter | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Didn't actually attempt, just belayed Simon - used to be able to log 'phantom' ticks but can't see how to do that anymore
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21 Fácil | ★★ Capstone Project - con Simon Porter | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Route was naturally a bit dirty again, takes slight bit of shine off. Progress was made. Route is in shade until 10am
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Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Powers Lab | ||||||
★ Powers Lime - con Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 3m | ★ Buena | ||||
Cleaned half of this and had a bit of an admittedly low commitment go
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V3 | ★★★ Powers Lab - con Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 5m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Super classic, did a few laps on it including a no feet campus lap until the last mantle. This time we just took a single mat and moved / held it in place and way easier than trying to fix them in place with gear over the water
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Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ The crack - con Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 4m | ||||
Sáb 23.º Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 Fácil | ★★ Capstone Project - con Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Working and aided the moves
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19 | ★★ Springer - con Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
The boulder start to this is really cool
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17 | ★ Keystone corruption - con Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Medio | |||
I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.
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Dom 10.º Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas Gate Boy Boulder | ||||||
V0 | ★★ Gate Boy Crack - con Michael Moore | 5m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Approach shoes with no pad. Great hands
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Dom 10.º Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
13 | ★★ Youth Beauty Fame - con Michael Moore | 18m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Super easy fun, the jugs rails would be amazing if they were on a steeper angle. The little chimney finish scrubbed up nicely for something a bit different
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16 | ★★ A Dash of Loneliness - con Michael Moore | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Cruisy and flowly and a delight, just like impunity but more consistent. A #3 works in the first horizontal but a #4 is better
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27 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars - con Michael Moore | 25m | ||||
'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags
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Dom 3.º Sep 2023 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Steps boulder | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Welcome mat - con Mark | 5m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Last time I didn't actually climb this, and dismissed it but it is really great. I might have just been eyeing up more to the right and missed the two great holds further left
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Dom 3.º Sep 2023 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Deep in the jumble | ||||||
Jungle in the rumble - con Mark | 4m | |||||
Tried this linking from the left 2, this feel doable and love to work this properly with more than one pad and some shade, maybe even bring a beach umbrella down
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★ Pinch arete - con Mark | 3m | ★ Buena | ||||
Feels doable, can get to the pinch and was slapping just short of the arete sloper. Only tried it one or twice it was baking
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V2 | ★ Jumble sale - con Mark | 3m | ★ Buena | |||
Dom 27.º Ag 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - con Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Pulled on and did the crux move, got to the rail and kinda lost steam. Very tired after the last 2 days in the gorge
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V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - con Volodymyr K | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Covered in pine needles, started to sprinkle
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V0 | ★ Stuart - con Volodymyr K | 4m | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 26.º Ag 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit - con Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 7m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Man oh man what an experience! Thing thing was such a find but I wasn't sure where or how it would finish. After we all had a few goes unlocking it bit by bit I got to the far right fantastic side pinch and then prepped to grovel my way up and out of the chimney. I fought and wrestled and thrutched and thought I was off a few times and then finally back my back pressed high and dry and was basically done and then ... slid out. Gutted! Utterly exhausted and a dry mouth wreck, had a gulp of what in hindsight was waaay too much fluid and then felt much worse. Spent the next 10 mins retching. Meanwhile Ben sends it and they're egging me to get back on it while I feel like death. Then finally I have a couple vomits of red poweraid, and after a few more mins I'm good to go, shoe up and, this time actually using some technique instead of brute force, send it! Stoked with the send and feeling elated I then take 2 steps and sink to the ground retching again for good measure
A genuinely and metaphorically, categorically sick day |
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22 | ★★ The games climbers play - con Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 15m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
After a few goes it looked like this thing might be way too staunch. Micro beta sorted it out, little far right side pull, lean left to chip and very careful match, then power through the slopers and up to the easier stuff before gravity realized what you did. It's hard to judge how many goes when you get shut down on the second move, maybe 5
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Sáb 26.º Ag 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort - con Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go
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Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
New Age area Aces boulder | ||||||
V5 ~V5 | ★★★ Ace of spades - con Alec Eastwood | 5m | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||
Was pretty worked and this felt impossible again, just like last time I did it, and then it all just resolves. Maybe 5-6 goes. Bumped it to a V5.
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V3 | ★★★ Ace of diamonds - con Alec Eastwood | 5m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Got it again second go, committing but fine mantle
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Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The practice rocks | ||||||
V6 | ★ Steppen Wolf - con Alec Eastwood | 5m | ★ Buena | |||
A bunch of goes, tickling the pinch and can't figure out if I want to pinch it or gaston. Lots of finger taping. Very shouldery
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Vie 21.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V0 | ★ Rail - con Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★ Buena | |||
V0 | ★ Rubik's cube - con Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ||||
Vie 21.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Scultpure garden | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Open up and say - con Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Vie 21.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - con Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - con Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Vie 21.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Vulcanology - con Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Still no resend but pretty happy to be slapping the last hold a few times
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Vie 21.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Mozzie Rock | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Mozzie Rock - con Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Dom 16.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Impunity - con Blue Mountains Orangutan | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style
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18 | ★★★ Innocence - con Blue Mountains Orangutan | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
So good, a couple spicy moves still but its all there
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Mié 12.º Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Scrubbing, worked out all the moves
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Wired World of Sport - con Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 10m, 2 | ||||
Really dogged this and had to aid to the last bolt. Surely something has ripped off, the start is great but then getting to the sloper ledge is either a big dyno, or a massive ape span, or off super minging sharp crimps. Second bolt isn't in the best position.
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17 | ★★ Cross wired - con Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 8m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
15 | ★★ Hubris - con Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 6m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
14 | ★★ Charity - con Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 20m | ||||
Toyed with a direct start, should scrub up into something
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16 | ★★ Hope - con Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Vie 9.º Jun 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jet B - con Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Clean on top rope first go, then took maybe 4 goes to get it clean on lead. Everything is subtle, every try I used different holds and took a while to settle on a sequence
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16 | ★ Transit lounge - con Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Warmup
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Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - con Michael Moore, Denni Heywood, Nora | 20m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Got another couple moves into the crux than last time, got high foot on the little chip but couldn't balance on it to straighten up. Feels like its only 2 moves away but I found it nails. Did the slopey foot traverse out of the crux.
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Dom 21.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Cluster | ||||||
★★★ Broke back mantel - con Ben Vincent | 4m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
A real tantalizing test piece that draws you in and makes you want to do it. Both of us feeling tired and the more we pulled on the more stoke was generated. Around 15 tries each
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★★★ Gluteus maximus levitatum - con Ben Vincent | 5m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
A proper session, had a few goes going feet first and got almost sitting on the slopey exit with a toe cam. I am in love with this weird problem. Can't believe its been 7 years
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Dom 21.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Max friction boulders | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Side pull caliper - con Ben Vincent | 2m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Ace little problem. Onsight but dabbed, did it a couple times in different ways
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Dom 21.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jet B - con Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ||||
Top rope scrub, all the holds are delicate but its all there and relatively obvious sequence
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23 | ★★ Tarmac - con Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Pulled through the first crux just fine, popped a foot at the second crux for a one hang
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20 | ★ Jetlag - con Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★ Pushback - con Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
One hard move and you're on the way, another lovely additional to the family
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Vie 19.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Sideslip | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
So lovely and juggy
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15 | ★ Soft field | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
The entire way up I was constantly blowing lots of dust off every move, considered calling it 'Solo blow job' but this is a PG rated crag
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16 | Short Field | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Vie 12.º Mayo 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - con Michael Moore | 20m, 12 | ||||
Not quite sure how to log this I wish there was just a 'note' non-ascent ascent type. I rapped down this, gave Michael a catch on chicks, then jugged up and was intending to lead this later. Barely 3-4m up I saw a fluff on my rope above, as I got to it I saw core. It's totally shot with 2cm of unsheathed core and bends completely 180. Brand new birthday rope used only a handful of times, and cut almost exactly at the half way mark. Gutted, did not climb at all. Still not clear exactly what cut it and when.
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Dom 7.º Mayo 2023 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Pebbly beach headland | ||||||
V2 | ★ Rusty fish hooks - con Ben Vincent | |||||
V0 | ★ Rusty Spoon - con Ben Vincent | 3m |