Nodos en Kiama

Volcanic sea cliffs surrounding the 'famous' tourist town of Kiama, south of Wollongong.

Easy to intermediate bouldering on coast near The Little Blow Hole, Kiama.

Sit start on sloper, powerful moves up to top with tricky mantle topout

Same start as “up and over”. Move around front face and traverse on slopers.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Traverse across to opposite arete and move up face to top out.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Move up arete to top out.

Sit start on good crimps, moving up to left sloper and right arete. Move across on small ledge to top level corner before topping out.

Same start as it's ok to cry. Move up to the right to side pull crimps.

Sit start, feet below overhang. Move up through crack and left hand crimps and slopers.

Knee bar start under feature. Move up and right to sloper and arete, before traversing back left across feature. Move to top out.

Sit start on jugs, move out right to sloper before big move up to ledge.

Easy boulder in a scenic location. Nearby the touristy part of the Kiama Coastal track (between The Cathedral and The Boneyard) so good if you happen to bring your shoes.

Direct.

Left to right trav.

Sit start and directly up.

Right to left trav.

Direct.

Direct.

Sit start hands on the crimps, dyno to the sloper jug, then feet onto the start holds and mantle out.

A heritage listed ex-quarry featuring unique basalt column formations.

The obvious long line of basalt columns (historically quarried) at the west side of the wide flat quarry floor as seen if you walk via the ocean side tracks towards Butt Muncher Buttress.

There is multiple weekends' worth of feisty top-class cracks to be had, and some will take all the juice you have to work and send.

Initially overshadowed by the development during the 1980s of the bigger cliffs in the now Off-limits area behind the Poo Works. The initial development was limited but yielded some strong and classic lines, particularly the fantastic and nails route 'Never Mind The Bollocks'.

It wasn't until the Spicey Flu(Covid19) and lockdowns that this area was re-discovered by Simmo .

The area now hosts some of the fiercest basalt columnar cracks this side of Frog or Kaputar...... just a bit shorter.

The quarry has been around for a long time now AND it's all too easy to assume things are semi-stable-ish....kinda sorta... but! please treat things with caution and respect. Employ good tactics and judgement.

As with all climbing at the quarried areas at Bombo, take care of the rock, it can be friable, although when it's solid, it's bloody awesome. Gear placements, esp cams can be skatey so take care of seating your gear.

Runoff from the clay above the routes can make some routes dirty. Rap-in and cleaning are recommended for the harder routes.... but its worth it, they are totes rad !

The striking basalt column walls up to 15m high at the North end of the quarry. Sport and Trad. Routes listed Left to Right.

A dirty hand crack in the middle of the cliff face somewhere, It's pretty obvious so get out there and look for it.

(1) The hand crack. Dirty dirty dirty.

Closed route - needs a bit more cleaning

Shared start with 'The last bolt ate my soul', or alternatively climb the direct thin hard finger crack (add an extra grade or two NB: as at June 2023 this needs more cleaning).

At the big block and start of the crux of TLBAMS, traverse left into the unrelenting loose fingers (#0.5 and #0.75)/tight hands(#1) subtle corner. Bring your best crack skilz yo!

A punchy little line. Up the initial easy crack, small good gear, U bolt, then techo moves protected by U bolt to switch into the next crack to the left. Hard moves into the corner, then even harder moves up the thin finger crack, technical bridging (use the right arete).

Double U bolt lower off

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The left of two lines up an appealing little buttress.

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (Direct), with good small cams and options for small wires.

At mid-height clip the U bolt and traverse left with tricky moves to get established in the solid finger crack. Lock and funk with bomber gear to the double U bolt lower off.

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The stonking line up an appealing little buttress ( a rare thing here amongst the more common savage corner lines at Bombo).

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (left), with good small cams and options for small wires to a bolt.

At mid-height, continue directly up past two U's with techo double arete moves and a desperate finale.

The original anchors were insalled by Steve Varney, but the line was never climbed. Now has new U bolts for anchors.

The super aesthetic crack about 10 m left of NMTB.

Along with NMTB this is one of the best cracks anywhere. Astounding complex movement, a diabolically cryptic crux. Bomber gear.

Hard moves off the ground to reach the tenuous crack and complex bridging.

Bomber gear although fiddly off the deck.

Fridge arete 3 m left of NMTB

Open V corner in the main northern Quarry. Over near the right side just to the right of the swampy section. Can be identified by the following pointers; Row of small dyna bolts up the right wall. Once used for Yosemite aid training by Reg, now rusted to blobs. Lower offs at the top, again by Reg. Top is clear of overburden debris. White painted square at bottom of climb and initials. First climbed as an aid route by Bill James this open book corner was later climbed in the typical siege ethic of the day. Hard stemming and finger locking with fiddly but good gear all the way up. Many falls were taken some with a loop of slack in hand while clipping. Expect a battle as Ferret was a crack master & The Man of Steel was the most powerful being to have ever graced the local cliffs with his presence. Will need a clean between the 37 year ascent cycle it now experiences.

Bolted line on the arete just left of the natural lines following a thin seam

The crack 6 or 7 m right of NMTB that cleaves the left side of a pillar.

It's now pretty much clean from dirt and loose rock and sweet to go.

THhe crack begins above a small ledge about 2m off the deck.

Easy solo scramble to the ledge then up the crack beginning with small fingers and continually increasing up to fist jams at the top. Bridging and stemming to get established then into the crack.

Excellent gear all the way with the usual precautions for this place to make sure your gear is seated in solid stuff.

Direct start to Surf Solar. Bring some tiny gear, and confidence. Bold through the middle until where the original joins, but the climbing is easy

The face crack 1.5 m right of DISB. Shares the same start off the ledge.

The usual cautions that the loose rock and blocks have been cleaned off with gusto and it's now mostly good and sound, but until it gets a few ascents be aware.

A double bolt belay are located a few meters back from the top in a small boulder/shelf.

Start up DISB and after gaining enough height for gear for the next moves, make a tricky move right to gain the arete.

Moderate climbing up right through the broken looking, but quite solid rock for a couple of meters until gaining the thin crack and thin good gear. Great gear from here on.

Getting established in the crack will keep you honest then locks away to the top.

Line of bolts up the short fractured arete a few metres right of Surf Solar

Follow the short line of chipped holds and 3 bolts to the anchors on ledge.

Since the chipping has been done, it now takes some perfect gear. Tagged as a project, but I reckon if you don’t clip the bolts it’s fair game. A couple 0.4s and a small wire will see you safely to the ledge

Starts just right of a “project” with chipped holds and unnecessary bolts.

Up to ledge with anchor on it (?) then up the obvious corner crack. Like hollow man, bring your gear and ignore the bolts until the line has been restored. There’s absolutely no doubt that this is a gear route

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

A hard and varied line.

NB: Can be accessed via a rap from two star pickets in the scrub above.

Stick clip the first bolt. Intense laybacking right off the deck up a shattered face flake. Good gear but absolutely desperate to place. Take care to choose solid placements as the rock at Bombo can be friable.

Clip a second bolt at the top of the Guillotine - this is the thinnest part of the shattered flake and there's no way you'd want to tempt pulling it off with a cam behind it

Take a breather, where the flake joins the main corner crack to its left.

Desperate finger locks and bridging to the top of the pillar on great small gear to a double U bolt lower off.

A classic trad line ruined by a line of bolts and an anchor set too low.

Small but bomber gear the whole way, do your best to ignore the bolts until this line is restored. Keep going past the anchor to the single hanger at the end of the good rock, then back-jump to the anchor to clean

Climb the double arete feature

Why are the best walls the furthest from the car park? The obvious headland of quality wall of good rock in a beautiful setting that can be seen when walking past the shit farm.

The east-facing (seaward side) columns and top of this buttress have been weathered into rounded, grey, very rough high-friction rock that looks a bit like pumice but is much harder. A geologist may confirm this may be due to saline decomposition of the xenoliths, xenocrysts and phenocrysts in the vesicular latite. Needless to say natural protection abounds, vertically mostly small wires and cams, with larger items on top.

The south-facing rock appears smoother and somewhat less weathered, with the bolted climbs up fused or smaller cracks. Further inland, the columns are hard and less "porous" but actively shattering, and are topped with a horrible mass of loose cream-coloured gravel.

8m left of Self isolation. A short scramble up to a 6m crack. Crack is well protected. The rock surrounding the crack is quite weak and will crumble. Climb with caution and jam as much as you can. Caution: Top has been cleared of loose rocks but there is still some weak rock on top that might dislodge. Top out to the left of the crack.

Named after my first climbing partner and friend Justin, who took his own life in 2018. Hopefully a good reminder to check in on those we care about.

Start at obvious hand crack then trend right past 3 rusty bolts to double FHs (no mailons or biners on these - so no way of lowering off).

Rebolted, closed project.

Under development. Will be bolted. For now it's easy to top rope using various anchors at the top.

Not as fun to climb as Butt Muncher but still good. Will have some friable holds until it gets more traffic.

Consistent climbing to a tricky finish.

The original classic on this buttress - great technical climbing up the columns with a distinct crux in the middle. The old 304 stainless bolts broke under load (!) and were replaced in 2020.

Line of bolts right of BM. Fun line that has a changing corners vibe to it. Two rings to lower off.

Traversing line starting off the ledge. Can lower of TTOTUA Anchors

Easy lower crack, then straight up the fine steep corner crack to trad belay.

Nice fun climbing up to the cone then an thin crux on small gear! Trad Belay

The Southern areas of the quarry including the Sewerage Treatment Plant (STP) are owned by Sydney Water, with the Eastern area of this leased to Kiama council for public recreational use. The Northern section is owned by the Department of Environment, Industry and Planning, also for recreation use. The bulk portion of the quarry and climbable areas are covered by a State Heritage conservation order (Ref: #177).

While the area is well used by locals and tourists, there is no official opinion on climbing (??), and new routes should be climbed with due discretion and regard for public presence and the State Heritage listing.

Boulders boulders boulders

The long and broken low wall in the North East separating the quarry from the ocean. Bouldering. Routes listed Left to Right (i.e. North to South).

Tend left from the crack where the better jugs are.

Stick with the crack and just right of.

Standing start, straight up the corner.

Contrived harder variant. Use the corner crack only, no sides, stick it in deep!

sit start, up right hand crack

A good problem that forces the use of a high heel hook. Stay away from the block to the right, and the cracks to the left! Find the hidden right hand around the corner and slap up that blunt left arete.

Start on LH side pull and big pocket in the middle of the wall. Work up crimps to a nice top.

Start on RH side pull and big pocket in the middle, work up the face and then smear up to top out on nice jugs.

Sit start move straight up the crack to top out. No bridging on the right hand side wall.

Sit start on the left, traverse along crack to the right and then straight up and out. Don't touch the floor!

Work up the slightly overhanging prow on cool pockets.

Bridge out in the corner to the left of S crack for some fun, easy climbing.

Starting on right hand arete move up through middle of wall to top following s looking crack. Wall on the left not in and ledge to right of top is out.

Start with RH side pull and other hand out left in pocket, smear feet up to gain decent side pulls on both sides of the block then balance up to gain the top.

Sit start on the LH side, work your way around to the RH starting side pull of the stand start and then up as per normal.

Sit start on right side of face. Move straight up the wall to committing top. Big span will help...

Dyno variation to In Deep. From the obvious jug to top. Big and committing.

Temptation from above, death from below.

• This entire pillar and the “project” which was once on it have now fallen down and no longer exist.

Easy corner variant to help beginners. Start at undercling.

Tricky section moving through the V3.

Sit start low on centre face. Move up and left around vague arete to committing move for the top. No bridging on wall to the left.

Sit start low on centre face. Move straight up to another committing move for the top.

Straight up face. Watch out for some loose blocks on the left!

Public land please be respectful!

* This route is confirmed destroyed (the whole pillar collapsed!)

The East-West wall in the middle of the quarry, where the main track passes through. Routes listed Left to Right, i.e. West to East to the sea.

Small fridge block at the end, using only the free standing block to hug and kick your way to the top. Sit start left in pocket and right on arete crimp jug. Jaime Williams (FA)

Sit start next to spring tide, use the crack to lay back to the top exiting left

Sit start below the break on crimps. Move up via good holds to a committing move for the top.

Sit start matched in upside down 7 shaped hold, head straight up via edges on face, arete cracks either side are out. Match the top lip, step left and walk out for a safe top out. Jaime Williams (FA)

Low match in deep crack. Simple left right motions up with pad / half pad crimp, good grip. Finish at the two jugs on left and right of the corner. Careful of surrounding rocks.

(1) Up the tallest cleanest looking central crack in the wall.

In the clearing before the Quarry opening, on the right side of Crimp Pimp. Almost sit start, left and right on either corners crimps (very poor). Up between the two arrêts, then crossing into the second right arrêts jug to finish.

A fun bouncy pillar on solid jugs. Either stretchy or jumpy, depending on your style (and height).

A pikers variant exists following the big vertical crack to the adjacent right pillar. Subtract 5 grades!

May have been top-roped by AA in the old days (TBC).

The first of the three main cracks on this compact little wall. A stiff little lay back crack with not many snails.

(1) Up the stiff little layback crack taking care not to doom to many little blue snails to their deaths when they try to attack you.

The next one along the line, a sort of open corner finger lock crack, good protection and interesting little blue snails.

(1) The open corner climbed on nasty flared little blue snails.

Arete climbing, nice holds when you need them and flows well. Slightly technical in places.

Note: The base of the climb can get very slippery after rough seas, recommend clipping first bolt from the ledge to stop you/belayer slipping out to sea.

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.

Good for practising your squeeze and wrapping yourself to rock.

Good for practising your fist jams.

Layback up the features.

Good for practising your stemming, or Sasuke 4th Stage.

Good for practising your hand jams

The Southernmost sea wall. To the right of the access track as you first come in to the quarry.

The main headland that can be seen when speeding down to Nowra.

Next to cliff face, nice pretty views of the head land. Sit start on the left of face, small technical traverse to right side climb up and finish on the top far top left jug. Lots of small crimps, good for technique practice and strength. Avoid using foot holds on the right side of the face, the shit feet make it harder. Careful topping with loose rock and a cliff drop below you.