Vías en Northern Rivers para grado seleccionado

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

Start at the black brain rock under a bulgy, juggy overhang. Pull through and march up the slab. At the 8th FH, you’ll see PTY branch off to the left (don't). Head straight up with some more thoughtful climbing on good rock. Two more bolts to anchors. Don’t extend the anchor. 10 FH’s.

Crazy Moon 240m 18

1. 40m 13 Hard start moves lead to easy angled slab. Straight up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

2. 40m 18 Up slight groove in slab 15m right of right facing vegetated corner. Knifeblade at 5m, then trend right through hard unprotected moves to more gear in narrow vertical crack. Continue straight up before traversing left to base of left facing corner and fig belay.

3. 10m 15 Left facing corner capped by vegetated crack. Block belay.

4. 55m 18 Traverse right to hanging block (fixed piton) then up run out slab to horizontal overlap. Trend left to belay at left land side of 2m high roof.

5. 45m 17 Step left and up left facing corner then out left onto slab. Up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

6. 50m 17 Left to arete on right side of ephemeral waterfall. Up clean rock until possible to step right onto right leaning slab. Trend right past loose blocks to ledge and spear lilly belay. At this point the good climbing ends and best option would be to rap to eastern side of watercourse and descend via gully. If summit fever calls, the following 2 pitches get you to the top. A cleaner option would be to head left across the watercourse, through a spear lilly ledge to nice looking slabs. It looked possible to thread a line through some scattered spear lillys to the top.

7. 60m V2 (V is a proposed vegetation grade) Trend right through steep spear lilly horror show to belay beneath next rock.

8. 30m 12 Over unprotected rock buttress to vegetated niche then trend right on slab to ridge. At this point you are on the ridge that forms the eastern end of the Wollumbin Shield. A narrow ridge with bits of scrub and rock lead for about 250m to the ridgetop. Follow upper ridge to descent gully to west.

First climb as you arrive - all other climbs are to the left of this one.

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last climb on lower wall

hidden in the corner

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

Some nice crimps, traverse from single FH at top left to lower off 'NL' Top out often dirty!

Up through small roof (try not to wimp out left to mantle) From single FH at top traverse right to lower off "SIS" Top out often dirty!

Long interesting traverse with tricky crux midway, often cleaned by seconding, or climb in reverse. Good warm up for steeper routes in cave.

Starts on small ledge, lay away left edge of cave to travel right through large window cave/ tube to lower off on other side of hole.

Up 'H.I.O' then traverse right under roof (not through hole) to join 'B' then up outside to shared lower off of all three climbs.

Up orange rock from small ledge on outside of cave to finish at shared anchor on edge of hole.